- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Not Polystyrene, but it is ABSBet it's not polystyrene.
and Humbrol Polystyrene Cement works on ABS.
https://uk.humbrol.com/products/poly-cement-medium-tube-ae4021
"Product Info
Usage: A solvent-based cement suitable for plastic model kits only.Substrate: Common plastics used to manufacture model kits including polystyrene and ABS."
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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I'm still tidying up the Kawasaki Mule. Next on the list was the bonnet, or frunk as its mid engined. It's plastic and the holes for the hinge brackets have given up.
After a bit of cardboard aided design, I cut a couple of bits of 1mm aluminium sheet and bonded them with epoxy. Bonnet now back on and working fine.
Next up was the wiring, again. I had to find a better earth for the front lights, so went fishing under the dashboard, and found more than I bargained for
First was this, which turns out to be a phantom ignition unit. Rather than use a switched live, it connects to a live from the battery and detects when the vehicle is in use and provides a switched live. It usually used for powering accessories.
But what accessories and why if there is a switched live available? This gave a clue, it appears to be a GPS receiver.
Then I fished this out. It's a tracker. So for some reason they don't want a normal switched live.
I don't know much about them apart from they log all sorts of data. It's an ex council park bin collection vehicle so I guess they were keeping tabs on the workers.
There's also this on the dash, it has a piezo electric buzzer, a button, an annoying flashing LED and a coax connector.
I believe it's part of some kind of walkie talkie or similar, the holster for the handset is still on the frame.
For some reason there is a second key and several random rocker switches. One is for the beacon.
It's all coming out tomorrow, then I'll fix the earth and find a switch live to activate the hydraulic lift relay. i just hope it's all passive, probably but I'll take photos before disconnecting it all.
After a bit of cardboard aided design, I cut a couple of bits of 1mm aluminium sheet and bonded them with epoxy. Bonnet now back on and working fine.
Next up was the wiring, again. I had to find a better earth for the front lights, so went fishing under the dashboard, and found more than I bargained for
First was this, which turns out to be a phantom ignition unit. Rather than use a switched live, it connects to a live from the battery and detects when the vehicle is in use and provides a switched live. It usually used for powering accessories.
But what accessories and why if there is a switched live available? This gave a clue, it appears to be a GPS receiver.
Then I fished this out. It's a tracker. So for some reason they don't want a normal switched live.
I don't know much about them apart from they log all sorts of data. It's an ex council park bin collection vehicle so I guess they were keeping tabs on the workers.
There's also this on the dash, it has a piezo electric buzzer, a button, an annoying flashing LED and a coax connector.
I believe it's part of some kind of walkie talkie or similar, the holster for the handset is still on the frame.
For some reason there is a second key and several random rocker switches. One is for the beacon.
It's all coming out tomorrow, then I'll fix the earth and find a switch live to activate the hydraulic lift relay. i just hope it's all passive, probably but I'll take photos before disconnecting it all.
finyuk2005
Member
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- 728
how many killerwatts would that beast be?!
finyuk2005
Member
- Messages
- 728
thats an awesome amount of water!!
Farmers - could break anything. This has been sitting in front of the workshop for 2 months or so, as I have been putting it off as I expected it to be difficult and threefore procrastinated over fixing it. I now need to get another project into the shed, so that forced the issue.
We grew some green feed maize at the end of last year, and the idea was to break feed it to the cows, but with a wet summer, it took off and was 7-8' high so you would lose the cows in it. Dave the sharemilker borrowed an old "silorator" forage harvester from a friend, so we could cut and carry it to the herd. We used to use these things in the 1970s and 1980s to make silage, where it picked up the cut grass with a flail drum, beat it up and fired it into a trailer behind. All much smaller scale than these days where there are dedicated forage harvesters worth the best part of a million bucks each. This one was last used maybe 10 years ago and is probably 40 years old. We put the feed out wagon onto it, which is much larger than the V shaped cage trailer used back in the day. The extra weight, and a foot that dragged on the ground tore open the hitch across the back. Looking at the break, I suspect it had been cracked for a while, but once it went it tore open. For bonus points, it also bent the mounts of the frame, so the skids wouldn’t be adjustable.
The rule of borrowing gear is if it breaks, you fix it. You can’t hand it back broken.
There is nothing to push against which had me stumped for a while, and I was looking at making bending forks and all sorts of solutions. After much thinking, I got a 10T jack, cut through the middle of the broken bit, put the tractor on the front, and that let me jack it vertically, and some heating of the side plates with the big oxy heating tip and use of a sledgehammer squared everything up to about 2mm out of parallel.
The original mount was 89x89 SHS, around 3 or 4mm wall. The new bits are 89*89*6mm SHS and doubled up which hopefully will make it much stronger. It turned out to be much easier than expected.
New gearbox oil as well, as the oil in it drained out when I tipped it on the front to get underneath. Pretty sure the oil shouldn’t be grey coloured, so overdue for new oil anyway.
It will probably never be used again and will spend the rest of it’s life in the shed or stored outside, but at least it is ready to go if needed and better than it was.
Heat it and beat it
Weld in new cross bar
The mag drill proved it's worth again.
Finished along with the world's worst paint job as I was trying to work around the rain.
We grew some green feed maize at the end of last year, and the idea was to break feed it to the cows, but with a wet summer, it took off and was 7-8' high so you would lose the cows in it. Dave the sharemilker borrowed an old "silorator" forage harvester from a friend, so we could cut and carry it to the herd. We used to use these things in the 1970s and 1980s to make silage, where it picked up the cut grass with a flail drum, beat it up and fired it into a trailer behind. All much smaller scale than these days where there are dedicated forage harvesters worth the best part of a million bucks each. This one was last used maybe 10 years ago and is probably 40 years old. We put the feed out wagon onto it, which is much larger than the V shaped cage trailer used back in the day. The extra weight, and a foot that dragged on the ground tore open the hitch across the back. Looking at the break, I suspect it had been cracked for a while, but once it went it tore open. For bonus points, it also bent the mounts of the frame, so the skids wouldn’t be adjustable.
The rule of borrowing gear is if it breaks, you fix it. You can’t hand it back broken.
There is nothing to push against which had me stumped for a while, and I was looking at making bending forks and all sorts of solutions. After much thinking, I got a 10T jack, cut through the middle of the broken bit, put the tractor on the front, and that let me jack it vertically, and some heating of the side plates with the big oxy heating tip and use of a sledgehammer squared everything up to about 2mm out of parallel.
The original mount was 89x89 SHS, around 3 or 4mm wall. The new bits are 89*89*6mm SHS and doubled up which hopefully will make it much stronger. It turned out to be much easier than expected.
New gearbox oil as well, as the oil in it drained out when I tipped it on the front to get underneath. Pretty sure the oil shouldn’t be grey coloured, so overdue for new oil anyway.
It will probably never be used again and will spend the rest of it’s life in the shed or stored outside, but at least it is ready to go if needed and better than it was.
Heat it and beat it
Weld in new cross bar
The mag drill proved it's worth again.
Finished along with the world's worst paint job as I was trying to work around the rain.
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
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- 622
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- Maine, USA
The underside of the exhaust pipe on our 22-year-old Toro Wheelhorse garden tractor had rusted completely through, and the exhaust was melting the plastic grille mounts and blistering the decal and paint. The exhaust pipe was welded onto the muffler as part of a single assembly that's available at an exorbitant price, and since the rest of the muffler assembly was still solid, with only minor surface rust, I thought I'd repair it rather than empty my wallet on a new assembly.
I cut off the rusty exhaust pipe, ordered two pieces of 90-degree pre-bent tubing, and then cut and welded the tube pieces together to match the original double bend with 45-degree twist. The new tubing was one size larger than the original exhaust pipe, so it slid snugly over the stub that I left sticking out of the muffler. I welded the end of the new tubing against the original weld, followed by some 2000F-rated paint, which I think should heat cure by running the engine for a series of increasing lengths of time. This repair should keep the exhaust system happy for several more years. I also repaired the melted plastic grille mounts with some grinding, drilling, tapping, and new steel studs.
The tractor has lived outside for all of its 22 years, and it's overdue for new paint and other cosmetic freshening, but it's a well-built machine that still runs well, and the cosmetics will have to wait until some other projects are out of the way.
I cut off the rusty exhaust pipe, ordered two pieces of 90-degree pre-bent tubing, and then cut and welded the tube pieces together to match the original double bend with 45-degree twist. The new tubing was one size larger than the original exhaust pipe, so it slid snugly over the stub that I left sticking out of the muffler. I welded the end of the new tubing against the original weld, followed by some 2000F-rated paint, which I think should heat cure by running the engine for a series of increasing lengths of time. This repair should keep the exhaust system happy for several more years. I also repaired the melted plastic grille mounts with some grinding, drilling, tapping, and new steel studs.
The tractor has lived outside for all of its 22 years, and it's overdue for new paint and other cosmetic freshening, but it's a well-built machine that still runs well, and the cosmetics will have to wait until some other projects are out of the way.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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My compressor was blowing air out if I stopped it before it got up to pressure and I was getting a bit annoyed with it. I stripped the non return valve and found the spring in it was broken. I stretched the spring that was left and refitted it and it worked perfectly, happy day.
JMS1972
Member
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- 1,208
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
Whilst looking through the electronics cabinet of my new Denford Novaturn lathe I noticed a bit of melting going on 
The common supply pin for the output pins didn't look happy.
Underside looks worse big blister where an internal trace has vaporised.
This was connected to an octal Darlington driver on a daughter board but I traced it to where it came through the 96 way connector.
There was 140 ohms resistance from driver to output pin. Made up of charcoaled FR4!
I scraped out the black stuff and connection was lost.
A bit of single core wire was used to make the connection it needs to handle 4Amps max as the Darlington can do 500mA per channel so it's a bit chunkier than the usual wirewrap type.
Copious amounts of super glue were added to give the pin some support.
Electrically the dead track is fixed. I'll connect it up tomorrow and see if the Darlington needs replacing too, or if there's anything important where the blister is....
The common supply pin for the output pins didn't look happy.
Underside looks worse big blister where an internal trace has vaporised.
This was connected to an octal Darlington driver on a daughter board but I traced it to where it came through the 96 way connector.
There was 140 ohms resistance from driver to output pin. Made up of charcoaled FR4!
I scraped out the black stuff and connection was lost.
A bit of single core wire was used to make the connection it needs to handle 4Amps max as the Darlington can do 500mA per channel so it's a bit chunkier than the usual wirewrap type.
Copious amounts of super glue were added to give the pin some support.
Electrically the dead track is fixed. I'll connect it up tomorrow and see if the Darlington needs replacing too, or if there's anything important where the blister is....
Did a Truimph Trophy SE major service this week, what a pig of a job!.
All the valves needed shimming so at least it was worth the time getting in there.
You do wonder some times if the designers go out of their way to make the mechanics lives more difficult..
Single piece cam carrier as well so slow and steady wins the race..
All the valves needed shimming so at least it was worth the time getting in there.
You do wonder some times if the designers go out of their way to make the mechanics lives more difficult..
Single piece cam carrier as well so slow and steady wins the race..
JMS1972
Member
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- 1,208
- Location
- NW Leicestershire, UK
So after a bit more testing today it would appear the Power Darlington has had an unexpected thermal event in the past, shorting everything to ground - okay for the the outputs not so good for the pin I fixed as that is connected to +24V with no fuse. (It's just a path for the back EMF protection to +ve.)Whilst looking through the electronics cabinet of my new Denford Novaturn lathe I noticed a bit of melting going on
View attachment 450499
The common supply pin for the output pins didn't look happy.
View attachment 450500
Underside looks worse big blister where an internal trace has vaporised.
This was connected to an octal Darlington driver on a daughter board but I traced it to where it came through the 96 way connector.
View attachment 450501
There was 140 ohms resistance from driver to output pin. Made up of charcoaled FR4!
I scraped out the black stuff and connection was lost.
View attachment 450502
A bit of single core wire was used to make the connection it needs to handle 4Amps max as the Darlington can do 500mA per channel so it's a bit chunkier than the usual wirewrap type.
View attachment 450503
Copious amounts of super glue were added to give the pin some support.
Electrically the dead track is fixed. I'll connect it up tomorrow and see if the Darlington needs replacing too, or if there's anything important where the blister is....
Not quite sure why the ULN2083A died it's driving two relays. It's not socketed either unlike the one in the main board
JMS1972
Member
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
Another fix this time on the Novamill, the plastic cover had been expertly "repaired" at a University 
The tape surprisingly was really not doing a good job so a few brackets from middle of Lidl and some left over soft top window repair tape et voilà....
Looks a little bit better
The tape surprisingly was really not doing a good job so a few brackets from middle of Lidl and some left over soft top window repair tape et voilà....
Looks a little bit better
Brad93
Member
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- 18,349
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Arguably do you need an enclosure in a home workshop environment, it's surely designed to keep silly students fingers away.Another fix this time on the Novamill, the plastic cover had been expertly "repaired" at a University
View attachment 450523
The tape surprisingly was really not doing a good job so a few brackets from middle of Lidl and some left over soft top window repair tape et voilà....
View attachment 450524
Looks a little bit better
View attachment 450525
Looks like a flimsy pain in the butt to me
JMS1972
Member
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- 1,208
- Location
- NW Leicestershire, UK
I've already disabled the safety interlock so I can open it at any time.
Might keep it to contain chips but it does interfere with access to the drawbar so so may get binned later on.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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- 5,602
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I spent an hour on the Kawasaki Mule this morning, removing all the tracker stuff that the council had installed. First I had to get the glovebox out to get to a switch and a second ignition style switch. This proved harder than I envisaged. I had to get to this screw out else take the whole front off the Mule. It's a tight squeeze.
The philips bit was in this marvelous little ratchet, rarely used but worth its weight in gold when it's needed.
All the tat is now out and the Mule still starts.
I'll reinstall a 12v socket as per factory where they put the second ignition style switch.
I have pile of Lark & Lark bedroom furniture to assemble and fit before I can get back to it
The philips bit was in this marvelous little ratchet, rarely used but worth its weight in gold when it's needed.
All the tat is now out and the Mule still starts.
I'll reinstall a 12v socket as per factory where they put the second ignition style switch.
I have pile of Lark & Lark bedroom furniture to assemble and fit before I can get back to it
JMS1972
Member
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- 1,208
- Location
- NW Leicestershire, UK
So after deciding the Darlington chip was FUBAR I ordered a set of 3 from the Bay or Evil. Might be a consumable! Time remove the old one.Whilst looking through the electronics cabinet of my new Denford Novaturn lathe I noticed a bit of melting going on
View attachment 450499
The common supply pin for the output pins didn't look happy.
View attachment 450500
Underside looks worse big blister where an internal trace has vaporised.
This was connected to an octal Darlington driver on a daughter board but I traced it to where it came through the 96 way connector.
View attachment 450501
There was 140 ohms resistance from driver to output pin. Made up of charcoaled FR4!
I scraped out the black stuff and connection was lost.
View attachment 450502
A bit of single core wire was used to make the connection it needs to handle 4Amps max as the Darlington can do 500mA per channel so it's a bit chunkier than the usual wirewrap type.
View attachment 450503
Copious amounts of super glue were added to give the pin some support.
Electrically the dead track is fixed. I'll connect it up tomorrow and see if the Darlington needs replacing too, or if there's anything important where the blister is....
Older versions of the board have this chip socketed but obviously you make more money selling a replacement board!
Easiest way to remove is cut the legs off and remove them one by one.
I came up with a technique to quickly remove the pins. I heated them up with the soldering iron and then squeezed the tip and pin together with needle nose pliers whilst pulling the lot away from the board.
I then used a solder sucker to remove the remaining solder. And then soldered a new socket.
Managed a nice neat job with no lifted pads
An old board donated it's chip for the time being until replacements turn up.
Popped in the lathe cabinet and now the tool changer stops at the home position instead of constantly turning
TBXX are the tool position bit relays and the four on right control main functions. TPFR (tool changer) and SGR (Spindle) are not powered which is correct hurrah!
