Luggsey
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Oh I'm just fiddling with it for another project!
House boiler is okeydokey.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
House boiler is okeydokey.
fftopic:
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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- 3,327
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- North Lincs
I took the rusty machine vice apart and cleaned it up. It works well now. I didn't go overboard with the cleaning as it is a functional working vice. Not bad for something that has been laying in the mill cabinet for 15 years!
Luggsey
Member
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- 203
- Location
- Devon
I actually fought with my demons today and set about determined to get my late Dads SIP Mig to actually work!
It has caused us much grief over the years and ended up languishing at the back of the shed slowly rusting away.
It would never happily weld, always spitting and poping no matter the setting.
Today I stripped it down and cleaned it out.
Took corrosion off the wire feed bearing which is dry and rumbly after about 10 years of no use...
I throughly cleaned out the wire sheath and got ready to go!
Wire motor refused to go initially but gave in and runs ok now.
I think I finally realised why the wire feed never worked properly.
The 0.6mm wheel doesn't grip 0.6 wire! (The 0.8 grips 0.6 fine later on)
The wire feed mechanism is out of whack and the tension bearing must sit dead centre of the groove in the wheel. These SIP welders also allow the whole wire feed to 'bow' slightly under tension load.
So half a dozen copper washers packing the bearing and wheel until dead centre under load and presto! Good clean mig welds!
I'm happy and I'm sure my Dad would have been as well.
It has caused us much grief over the years and ended up languishing at the back of the shed slowly rusting away.
It would never happily weld, always spitting and poping no matter the setting.
Today I stripped it down and cleaned it out.
Took corrosion off the wire feed bearing which is dry and rumbly after about 10 years of no use...
I throughly cleaned out the wire sheath and got ready to go!
Wire motor refused to go initially but gave in and runs ok now.
I think I finally realised why the wire feed never worked properly.
The 0.6mm wheel doesn't grip 0.6 wire! (The 0.8 grips 0.6 fine later on)
The wire feed mechanism is out of whack and the tension bearing must sit dead centre of the groove in the wheel. These SIP welders also allow the whole wire feed to 'bow' slightly under tension load.
So half a dozen copper washers packing the bearing and wheel until dead centre under load and presto! Good clean mig welds!
I'm happy and I'm sure my Dad would have been as well.
If its the same feed as my old Migmate super, a simple brace up from one of the mounting screws to the pivot screw for the tension arm helps a lot too.
Cobbler
Codger bodger
- Messages
- 7,731
- Location
- Gloucestershire UK
there is a bit of anomaly with some of the rollers, some the size faces outward for the groove on the inside, others the size is on the same side as the groove. All done just to confuse! That’s also probably got a plastic liner in it, if it has chuck it & fit a metal one ..... or curtain wire its the same size. The plastic ones are rubbish, the wire binds on the surface & won’t feed nicely. If you take the wire feed tension off & pull the wire from the torch end, there should be virtually no resistance. I did one for a friend a while back & it took about 10 pounds to pull the wire through, poor little feed motor couldn’t cope. New liner & it was a couple of ounces needed.
My mowers had a slow puncture for years. Since it lives in the shed with the compressor, I never quite got round to fixing it, tried a couple of times though. Today I put an inner tube in it and its still got air in it after nearly 5 hours. It's a little win, but its a win.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
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- 2,327
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- Gloucestershire, UK
Those of you who have been following my portable workbench build will have gathered two pieces of information. Firstly, I didn't have much to do today while some epoxy is curing. Secondly, early on in the project I broke my Axminster 311 plane:
I've since bought a (second-hand Record) replacement as I didn't think there was much chance of welding cast iron and getting it anywhere near square. Despite that, I was at a bit of a loss today with the weather being rubbish and the epoxy being un-cured so I decided to have a go.
I re-attached the nose piece to the broken-off bit and I clamped it down to my aluminium fixture plate, using a 20-40-80 block as an edge to push the two halves up against and keep the base level:
Close-up of that crack:
Next up I attacked it with a triangular file:
I then got out a 986 TIG brazing rod. I bought a very small pack of these a year or two ago and had a few plays with them in the past, but only on flat bits of cleaned steel; never on anything that mattered. I thought brazing the cast body might give me a better chance of success
. Mainly, I figured I didn't have anything to lose given that this was a write-off and would otherwise be going in the swarf bin.
I set the TIG welder up to 60 A max and played around with the foot pedal while prodding with the TIG rod. I wouldn't say what I did looks like a good joint (I feel much more comfortable TIG welding than TIG brazing), but for a first attempt it seems okay-ish. After doing the "top" (actually right) side of each bit of the break, I flipped the whole lot over, placed it on top of a couple of parallels (to make space for the previous brazed joint) and repeated the filing/brazing exercise on the left-hand side.
It ain't pretty...
Once that had cooled a little, I attacked the two outside surfaces with a couple of different files to try to bring it somewhere near flush with the side. As this is a shoulder plane, it's supposed to be able to get right into awkward corners and having a lump could be a problem.
It definitely ain't pretty...
... but amazingly it seems to work okay (at least for now)
I've since bought a (second-hand Record) replacement as I didn't think there was much chance of welding cast iron and getting it anywhere near square. Despite that, I was at a bit of a loss today with the weather being rubbish and the epoxy being un-cured so I decided to have a go.
I re-attached the nose piece to the broken-off bit and I clamped it down to my aluminium fixture plate, using a 20-40-80 block as an edge to push the two halves up against and keep the base level:
Close-up of that crack:
Next up I attacked it with a triangular file:
I then got out a 986 TIG brazing rod. I bought a very small pack of these a year or two ago and had a few plays with them in the past, but only on flat bits of cleaned steel; never on anything that mattered. I thought brazing the cast body might give me a better chance of success
. Mainly, I figured I didn't have anything to lose given that this was a write-off and would otherwise be going in the swarf bin.I set the TIG welder up to 60 A max and played around with the foot pedal while prodding with the TIG rod. I wouldn't say what I did looks like a good joint (I feel much more comfortable TIG welding than TIG brazing), but for a first attempt it seems okay-ish. After doing the "top" (actually right) side of each bit of the break, I flipped the whole lot over, placed it on top of a couple of parallels (to make space for the previous brazed joint) and repeated the filing/brazing exercise on the left-hand side.
It ain't pretty...
Once that had cooled a little, I attacked the two outside surfaces with a couple of different files to try to bring it somewhere near flush with the side. As this is a shoulder plane, it's supposed to be able to get right into awkward corners and having a lump could be a problem.
It definitely ain't pretty...
... but amazingly it seems to work okay (at least for now)
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
Very nice, and a bargain.
Luggsey
Member
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- 203
- Location
- Devon
Where do I source these metal liners or am I better to get a complete new euro torch?
Cobbler
Codger bodger
- Messages
- 7,731
- Location
- Gloucestershire UK
rather than spend money on it, I would try curtain wire, lots have tried it & its dirt cheap, (I’m tight) or put SIP torch liner into eBay & they come up. A euro torch won’t fit unless it’s already converted & fitted with one.
If the net curtains fall down after, deny all responsibility & look innocent
EDIT the SIP I did for a mate, I used a Clarke liner, it was the same. you could get on of those from Machine Mart. It was held into the gas valve on the torch with a little quick release type fitting screwed in. No idea what they are called but the tube pushes in & locks & to release you push a ring back that’s around the tube. @a111r is the expert on fitting curtain wire, he’s done loads.
Last edited:
Luggsey
Member
- Messages
- 203
- Location
- Devon
One of these?
These are £5.75 delivered on Amazon.
Happy to try it for such low money.
I see you can get the flexy bit the fits in the torch as well?
I think wire feed problems are the main cause of problems on these SIP welders so if thats cured I would be very happy to keep using it.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,996
- Location
- France, Brittany.
That's interesting.
Cobbler
Codger bodger
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- Gloucestershire UK
Looking at the end, that looks like one for a Euro torch. The hobby torch end is different, if the diameter is the same you may be able to fit it into the coupling by cutting off the end, I don’t know. I think you would be better to get the proper thing. As I said previously I fitted a Clarke one in a mates SIP The fitting was the same.
Luggsey
Member
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- 203
- Location
- Devon
Should have looked on here more carefully!
Replacing a Wire Liner - SIP Migmate, Topmig and Cosmo
How to replace a wire liner and service a MIG welding torch, and the difference it makes to welding.
www.mig-welding.co.uk
qwakers
Member
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- 2,151
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- cornwall, united kingdom
i wonder why this engine was overheating and cutting out?
and I thought it had holed pistons too, but no, lr2 engines have those holes as standard, I checked!
bores are perfect, which i wasn't expecting, due to the report of it being run out of oil. I think it just cooked itself and nipped up. a good pressure wash, a check of the rings and bearings, a top end gasket set (£25) and a tube of hylomar, and it looks like it will be good to go.
and I thought it had holed pistons too, but no, lr2 engines have those holes as standard, I checked!
bores are perfect, which i wasn't expecting, due to the report of it being run out of oil. I think it just cooked itself and nipped up. a good pressure wash, a check of the rings and bearings, a top end gasket set (£25) and a tube of hylomar, and it looks like it will be good to go.
