- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,842
- Location
- Going Away.
Busy day yesterday.
Finished a few bits, started a few bits and had fun.
Made bread, twice. First loaf did not last very long.
The chief idea was to try out some restoration methods to see if they can be used in MIS.
The plan was to see if a stage could be completed in the time span of a session.
First through my hands.
The block plane was complete, but in need of some TLC
The main body was dirty and had some rust on it. The cap and locking screw was very rusty. The sawdust had absorbed moisture.
Cleaned the sawdust out and treated the rust with a Over the counter rust remover.
The company were very kind and supplied a H&S data sheet and a A4 size picture on the stages. Saved me a bit of work.
The body was cleaned up with wet and dry 1000 grit stapled to a suitable size MDF.
A bee's wax and linseed oil was used as a lubricant.
The blade was sharpened on a oil stone.
The above method will allow the MIS to restore that sort of tool in a session.
The next was the Stanley Hand drill in the top picture.
Striped down.
The killer on those drills is the springs in the chuck. If they are worn missing or broken then the cost of replacement makes it pointless to restore.
Another point if to much force or force applied in the wrong place in stripping the chuck, it will deform and render the drill useless.
Some one in the past has glued both handles on, removing them would break them.
If they are removed a few minutes in a lathe will clean them up. You want a smooth finish.
This time a cabinet scraper was used. Good handles are beech.
Restored to a good usable tool.
MIS have to be careful. Repainting will eat into time and reduce the amount of money they could make.
This way they have a tool to use, to swop or sell.
This plough plane was used to prove that a "dead tool" can be restored to a condition that would allow it to be used, swop or sold.
But.......
Yes the corner has broken off.
If the sole of the plane is involved in the break it renders a cheep repair pointless.
It can be done, but it cost in time and effort.
In this case the sole was un-damaged, so a 5 minute glue was used.
Meths. and wire wool was sued to clean the body up.
The blade was ground and sharpened on a hand cranked wet stone. Why?
@Cus we have one, we haven't done it that way before.
The Burr on the top of the blade was dressed back with a file.
Turns out the plane is a Marples. Blades in different sizes can be found.
The blade shows the rust pitting.
But the tool works.
Finished a few bits, started a few bits and had fun.
Made bread, twice. First loaf did not last very long.
The chief idea was to try out some restoration methods to see if they can be used in MIS.
The plan was to see if a stage could be completed in the time span of a session.
First through my hands.
The block plane was complete, but in need of some TLC
The main body was dirty and had some rust on it. The cap and locking screw was very rusty. The sawdust had absorbed moisture.
Cleaned the sawdust out and treated the rust with a Over the counter rust remover.
The company were very kind and supplied a H&S data sheet and a A4 size picture on the stages. Saved me a bit of work.
The body was cleaned up with wet and dry 1000 grit stapled to a suitable size MDF.
A bee's wax and linseed oil was used as a lubricant.
The blade was sharpened on a oil stone.
The above method will allow the MIS to restore that sort of tool in a session.
The next was the Stanley Hand drill in the top picture.
Striped down.
The killer on those drills is the springs in the chuck. If they are worn missing or broken then the cost of replacement makes it pointless to restore.
Another point if to much force or force applied in the wrong place in stripping the chuck, it will deform and render the drill useless.
Some one in the past has glued both handles on, removing them would break them.
If they are removed a few minutes in a lathe will clean them up. You want a smooth finish.
This time a cabinet scraper was used. Good handles are beech.
Restored to a good usable tool.
MIS have to be careful. Repainting will eat into time and reduce the amount of money they could make.
This way they have a tool to use, to swop or sell.
This plough plane was used to prove that a "dead tool" can be restored to a condition that would allow it to be used, swop or sold.
But.......
Yes the corner has broken off.
If the sole of the plane is involved in the break it renders a cheep repair pointless.
It can be done, but it cost in time and effort.
In this case the sole was un-damaged, so a 5 minute glue was used.
Meths. and wire wool was sued to clean the body up.
The blade was ground and sharpened on a hand cranked wet stone. Why?
@Cus we have one, we haven't done it that way before.
The Burr on the top of the blade was dressed back with a file.
Turns out the plane is a Marples. Blades in different sizes can be found.
The blade shows the rust pitting.
But the tool works.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,842
- Location
- Going Away.
Got this lump the other day.
It was solid.
Not even the priming screw would loosen.
So. I fired up the music, made more coffee and dug out the hot spanner.
That got the nuts, bolts and the handle free.
This image does not show the work that went into getting the face plate off.
Two stages.
Stage One, was the pull the plate so far, as shown.
Stage 2.
Then pulling the brass gland sealing.
There was deaths in the dismantling.
If they didn't die before they are dead now.
The spider made an early bid for freedom.
The de-rusting removed the rust. But the old paint came to light.
It was then passed through the hot caustic to remove it.
There are four flap valves inside. They have no seals, but rely on the surfaces being flat and the water pressure to make the seal.
The surfaces are flat, but cast onto a curve surface.
Making a wood block from scrap hard wood allowed me to uses 800 grit wet and dry to make the surfaces.
There is before and after.
Rebuild.
The flapper valve RHS is fixed onto a brass peg. There is a leather strip seal between that and the butterfly shaft.
The handle was cleaned on a lathe, re-stained and French polished.
You don't want a smooth finish, but a smooth to rough. This allows a frim grip that will not through your hand off.
Finished
Only one nut and bolt was usable. The rest the metal moth had done for the other 3.
On the hunt for the 2 pipe flanges now.
well.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,842
- Location
- Going Away.
I even found time, between coffee to clean this up as well.
Now filled with a light grease.
To be used on MIS power tools fitted with grease nipples.
Now filled with a light grease.
To be used on MIS power tools fitted with grease nipples.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,544
- Location
- Keeler crater
I've got the same one, handy little thing. I keep with my Herbert drill to remind me to give it a shot of lube with each use.
Moose McAlpine
Member
- Messages
- 1,576
- Location
- Norf Lund'n
Yesterday's adventures..
Fixing some previous trailer wiring that's been tapped into the chassis loom, badly. Lots needs proper insulation and loom taping. Then fitted new proper 13-pin kit, but used two 7-pin sockets.
Top quality wiring on brand new 7-pin coiled cable.. all connectors cut off and new ones crimped on.
Finally got reverse lights on the trailer.
Fixing some previous trailer wiring that's been tapped into the chassis loom, badly. Lots needs proper insulation and loom taping. Then fitted new proper 13-pin kit, but used two 7-pin sockets.
Top quality wiring on brand new 7-pin coiled cable.. all connectors cut off and new ones crimped on.
Finally got reverse lights on the trailer.
AndersK
Member
- Messages
- 1,490
- Location
- Sweden
Most wood machines comes with a useless silly tiny little dust bag. The floor sander had a decent sized bag, one time use only. The rental depot asked how much I was going to sand and sent two bags. Will be interesting to see his look when I return one unused 
I have filled a 120 litre bag already.
Slit the bottom and made a clamp to reuse the bags easily
I have filled a 120 litre bag already.
Slit the bottom and made a clamp to reuse the bags easily
redlig
Member
- Messages
- 3,867
- Location
- wiltshire uk
See I said it would be well received. Welcome to the form.
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Well, not exactly fixed, more 'improved'. I fitted these to the Cross Slide as I got fed up of swarf/grinding dust/general crap filling up the T-slots.
3D printed by a guy on eBay who prints to order. I had to cut them down lengthwise by about 1/4" which was a bit of a pain as some of the filaments split but they'll do the job. Are there different widths of cross slides for the Myford ML7 - I wouldn't have thought so....
3D printed by a guy on eBay who prints to order. I had to cut them down lengthwise by about 1/4" which was a bit of a pain as some of the filaments split but they'll do the job. Are there different widths of cross slides for the Myford ML7 - I wouldn't have thought so....
tflnemesis
Member
- Messages
- 650
Should have asked on here, would probably have got them for free and they would have fitted
.
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 18,649
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
You want to look for Octane Workholding. They do a brilliant silicone t slot produvtWell, not exactly fixed, more 'improved'. I fitted these to the Cross Slide as I got fed up of swarf/grinding dust/general crap filling up the T-slots.
3D printed by a guy on eBay who prints to order. I had to cut them down lengthwise by about 1/4" which was a bit of a pain as some of the filaments split but they'll do the job. Are there different widths of cross slides for the Myford ML7 - I wouldn't have thought so....
View attachment 286098
View attachment 286099
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Anybody tried this themselves?
I recently bougth a tube of glazing kit, can't think of a better purpose for the leftover.
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
The only advantages I can see in having them removable like mine, are that I could fit a rear toolholder for parting off or relocate the top slide for whatever reason?
octo0072000
Member
- Messages
- 6,019
- Location
- south yorks
to avoid running over cable on sanders, mowers, hedge clippers, etc put the cable over your shoulder down your back and through a belt on your waist will always keep you from running over itNice weather so I've started sanding the patio. Just ran over the power cord so I assume something is trying to say its coffee time.
View attachment 285813View attachment 285814
AndersK
Member
- Messages
- 1,490
- Location
- Sweden
Not when reversing it won't...will always keep you from running over it
