- Thread starter God mode restorations
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selectedgrub
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Thanks, I've never seen that type only T handled ones.
Dieselman 63
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A Serbian salad. Gotta love Xmas in the sun!
Johnnybravo
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selectedgrub
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Be kind, I don't think he's a Kiwi.
Dieselman 63
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You have to eat Rabbit food when it’s sunny ?
I didn’t think rabbits ate cheese.
Dr.Al
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A few years ago I used the work laser cutter to make a hex key rack that mounted onto the side of my lathe:
Thanks to the laser cutter, it had hexagonal holes so the Allen keys wouldn't rotate (much) in the holder and get in each others' way.
Unfortunately it's mounted fairly near my bench vice and my Makita cordless drill has a lot of torque: if you don't hold on to the drill firmly when drilling an awkward hole, the battery can pick up a lot of momentum very quickly
I think I said something that began with the same letter as "Fiddlesticks" when that happened.
I've lived with it like that for a while, but finished building my first 3D printer (kit) a few days ago, I decided to have a go at my first home-designed (rather than STL downloaded) 3D print:
The triangular piece allows the keys to sit vertically, rather than being parallel with the sloped face of the lathe as they were with the old one. That means the bottom of the keys won't stick out and jab me in the leg as I clumsily walk past! The new holder still has the hexagonal holes, but they're tapered at the top to make it easier to get the Allen keys in:
Fitted:
I'm really pleased how it came out: I was quite nervous as it was the first thing I'd designed for 3D printing and the longest (nearly 20 hours for the main bit and 10 hours for the other bit
) print I've done by far. Printed in PETG with the top two layers in a different colour (obviously) to the rest. The holes are a fairly tight fit (so far less rotation than the laser cut version), but still easy enough to get in and out, especially with the tapered holes to help putting them in.
Thanks to the laser cutter, it had hexagonal holes so the Allen keys wouldn't rotate (much) in the holder and get in each others' way.
Unfortunately it's mounted fairly near my bench vice and my Makita cordless drill has a lot of torque: if you don't hold on to the drill firmly when drilling an awkward hole, the battery can pick up a lot of momentum very quickly
I think I said something that began with the same letter as "Fiddlesticks" when that happened.
I've lived with it like that for a while, but finished building my first 3D printer (kit) a few days ago, I decided to have a go at my first home-designed (rather than STL downloaded) 3D print:
The triangular piece allows the keys to sit vertically, rather than being parallel with the sloped face of the lathe as they were with the old one. That means the bottom of the keys won't stick out and jab me in the leg as I clumsily walk past! The new holder still has the hexagonal holes, but they're tapered at the top to make it easier to get the Allen keys in:
Fitted:
I'm really pleased how it came out: I was quite nervous as it was the first thing I'd designed for 3D printing and the longest (nearly 20 hours for the main bit and 10 hours for the other bit
) print I've done by far. Printed in PETG with the top two layers in a different colour (obviously) to the rest. The holes are a fairly tight fit (so far less rotation than the laser cut version), but still easy enough to get in and out, especially with the tapered holes to help putting them in.not exactly made today, but earlier this month I started making a metal box for carry model boats about, so it'll end up being an oversized tool box 2 ft long x 13 inches wide, so first I drew it roughly on squared paper at a scale of 5mm to 1 inch, as an inch is a nice round number (and it fit on the paper.
the metal was cut to size and then bend it, think it might have been easier to see a friend with a big bender, but I thought I'd do it the hard way, but got there eventually
if only the top and bottom were the same length, good job I started off making it oversize
then I decided to bead roll a recess at the top of the bottom, but that didnt go quite to plan, as it sheered the metal instead, so it ended up being a bit shorter (again glad that I planned to make it oversize anyway)
I decided to tig weld this. as it was 0.9mm zintec so cleaned up the edges and tacked the sides of the bottom into place and then autogenous pulse tig welded the edge. and after smoothing the edge over, I checked the fit of the top
which took a few tweaks to get right
then the sides of the top were marked, there were some washers taped to the lip to get the spacing correct, with magnets holding the top to the bottom.
the side were then tacked in place
and then the seams were autogenous pulse tig welded
and the top and bottom are are finished
and a handle was welded tig welded up too, I think this would have been better done with a mig welder on the inside corner joint of the tube.
and thats it for not until the weather warms up so I can paint it, and attach the hinges, handle and latches by pop rivets (must be 20 years since Ive used one of them).
the metal was cut to size and then bend it, think it might have been easier to see a friend with a big bender, but I thought I'd do it the hard way, but got there eventually
if only the top and bottom were the same length, good job I started off making it oversize
then I decided to bead roll a recess at the top of the bottom, but that didnt go quite to plan, as it sheered the metal instead, so it ended up being a bit shorter (again glad that I planned to make it oversize anyway)
I decided to tig weld this. as it was 0.9mm zintec so cleaned up the edges and tacked the sides of the bottom into place and then autogenous pulse tig welded the edge. and after smoothing the edge over, I checked the fit of the top
which took a few tweaks to get right
then the sides of the top were marked, there were some washers taped to the lip to get the spacing correct, with magnets holding the top to the bottom.
the side were then tacked in place
and then the seams were autogenous pulse tig welded
and the top and bottom are are finished
and a handle was welded tig welded up too, I think this would have been better done with a mig welder on the inside corner joint of the tube.
and thats it for not until the weather warms up so I can paint it, and attach the hinges, handle and latches by pop rivets (must be 20 years since Ive used one of them).
Not so much made, but soldered together.
The required logic chips for interfacing to a Chinese diesel heater, soldered on to a couple prototyping PCBs, with a 5p for size reference.
I would normally do these kind of things with the hot air station, but I've got no fresh solder paste, so opted for using the soldering iron, which is how I managed to (consistently!) get solder where I didn't want solder. And off course, I've no idea where my roll of desoldering wick is.
The required logic chips for interfacing to a Chinese diesel heater, soldered on to a couple prototyping PCBs, with a 5p for size reference.
I would normally do these kind of things with the hot air station, but I've got no fresh solder paste, so opted for using the soldering iron, which is how I managed to (consistently!) get solder where I didn't want solder. And off course, I've no idea where my roll of desoldering wick is.
Still not tried it in anger mate due to Xmas and child care getting in the way.
As I said in PM it does cut hand held.
I finally got an ER32 collet block and will test it out tomorrow if I can get outside.
Tangledfeet
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Didn't make it today but with only a miniscule fraction of the school roll in on Wednesday I thought I'd put my time to good use; scrap pine and some brass tube - Mrs Tangledfeet loves it! Folds flat too.
carbon
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Not specifically today, I have an older volvo truck that some parts are no longer available. The part I have had problems getting isn’t essential to the operation but I wanted to make it look like I cared about the truck enough that it looks sort of original rather than bodging something together. I’ve been watching some YouTube videos about silicone moulds and resin casting so decided to have a go at replicating the part.
I haven’t taken many pictures of the before part, the plastic has become very brittle and breaks easily
After removing the part from the mould, the yellow is wax to fill the holes
The new part is polyurethane resin that is roto cast to create a hollow object. This has been my first attempt at this and I’m very happy with the results. It may be a bit heavier than the original, but should be ok.
I haven’t taken many pictures of the before part, the plastic has become very brittle and breaks easily
After removing the part from the mould, the yellow is wax to fill the holes
The new part is polyurethane resin that is roto cast to create a hollow object. This has been my first attempt at this and I’m very happy with the results. It may be a bit heavier than the original, but should be ok.
All I want to be able to do is switch the heater on remotely, but the Chinese controllers do more than just provide an interface to control the heater, so I need to replicate what the controller does, and also link it to the internet so I can get remote control. I'll probably start a thread with more details once I get the arduino programmed and proven the information I have is correct.
All a hot air station is, is a small hot air gun that has adjustable air flow and temperature.
I've got an Atten 868D+ station, which has long since been superseded, but it does the job.
To solder a SMD component, you apply solder paste to the PCB pads. Position the chip (it doesn't have to be that precise), then blast* the area with hot air until the solder melts, and the surface tension of the molten solder causes the component to be pulled into alignment on the pads.
Hardest part is trying to get the right amount of solder paste on the pads, as unless you're using a stencil, or have a proper dispensing station, it's quite hard stuff to get out the syringe. The paste also separates in the syringe after a few weeks, so if you're only doing an occasional job, solder becomes quite a significant cost.
I say blast, but you set the airflow just high enough so the hot air reaches what you're soldering, without blowing the components of the board. You essentially end up with a gentle breeze of 300+deg air.
Not really made today, but someone said I'm not allowed out to play on Christmas day, and apologies for the poor picture. But made over the last few weeks with a bit here and there, a little stocking filler for Mrs DanZac.
Brilliant looks injection moulded. Not bad for a first attempt
Brad93
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Blimey do you think you could do one for our truck? Washer and coolant bottles both split from UV damage
