- Thread starter God mode restorations
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DennisCA
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I've also done some monitoring, I fitted a temp sensor to one of my fresh air vents to do some calculations. I have got a heat recovery ventilation system where the whole houses air is run through a heat exchanger, which heats the incoming air and cools the outgoing air. Doing some math I get that the heat recovery is 60-65% efficient, which is less than I had hoped. The ideal range is in the 80% range.
I am going to have to do some fiddling of the system. I will start with cleaning the heat exchanger and try and swap in new filters. It's a sensitive system apparently, the fresh air vents (placed in bed rooms, livingroom, sauna) have to be in the right proportion to the extracting vents(kitchen, mudroom, bathrooms), and the total result should be a slight under pressure in the house. I got the original plans where it's all calculated so I can use that for a reference, but I would need an aneometer to diagnose it properly.
I am going to have to do some fiddling of the system. I will start with cleaning the heat exchanger and try and swap in new filters. It's a sensitive system apparently, the fresh air vents (placed in bed rooms, livingroom, sauna) have to be in the right proportion to the extracting vents(kitchen, mudroom, bathrooms), and the total result should be a slight under pressure in the house. I got the original plans where it's all calculated so I can use that for a reference, but I would need an aneometer to diagnose it properly.
have one here if you want to borrow it, small hotwire . You sort postage there and back, and you can borrow it easily enough. Old analogue scale, airflow developments TA6000 but works fine.
let me know if that's of interest.. .
So we're saying the years, decades even, of my now 83yr old mother, getting down on her knees every morning and every night, to read the meters in the under-stairs cupboard, making a note in her dairy diary, so she can then swop two digits on her electric bill where they ask for a reading one month, then read it correctly the next, so they undercharge the first time, then over-charge the next time, leading her to argue with them for several months they got it wrong and according to her diary readings, they are wrong, has all been a waste of time? 
I still think she doesn't believe me when I showed her the figures she submitted had transposed digits to the ones in her diary . . .
Me . . . I just read the meter, pay the bill I get if it looks right . . .
I still think she doesn't believe me when I showed her the figures she submitted had transposed digits to the ones in her diary . . .
Me . . . I just read the meter, pay the bill I get if it looks right . . .
DennisCA
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Thanks for the offer but I think it would be cheaper for me to rent one from a local store. I am also given to understand it should be a specialized model that can cover the entire vent on one side, like a funnel.
Red'n'Black
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One of my back-burner projects is an optical pickup for our spinning-disc meter, to use with an Arduino or similar. But then a guy at work told me how he had done the same thing and had a hard time convincing the meter reader it wasn't some sort of cheat device...
@DennisCA aye a capture hood is always more efficent, but if you want more precision, drill test holes in any decent straignt length of duct and do a pitot tube travers with a micro manometer. Way more accurate than any anemometer readings as the results are more stable, aneomoeters tend to bounce around.
Dr.Al
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Today I made this:
Yes, that's right: it's a small notch in a random bit of 3 mm steel I had lying around. Impressed? I was.
It might not look like much, but in order to make said notch, I made this over the last week-ish:
More pictures:
In case you haven't worked it out, it's Harold Hall's filing machine. I hate filing with a passion, so this should be quite handy. So far I've only prepared a square file, a "tri-square" (why can't they just call it "triangular"?) file and a flat file, but more will come over the next few days.
The "variable stroke mechanism" (adjustable eccentric bearing) is a beautiful design. Here are a couple of videos of it running with somewhere near maximum stroke length (first slowly, then a bit quicker):
I'm feeling rather chuffed with that.
Oh, and if anyone decides to make one of these filing machines, the hold-down mechanism drawings specify two of each of items 1, 2 & 6. It only needs 1 of each. Let me know if you want to make this machine and I'll send you the extras I made (assuming they haven't made it into the bin by then).
Yes, that's right: it's a small notch in a random bit of 3 mm steel I had lying around. Impressed? I was.
It might not look like much, but in order to make said notch, I made this over the last week-ish:
More pictures:
In case you haven't worked it out, it's Harold Hall's filing machine. I hate filing with a passion, so this should be quite handy. So far I've only prepared a square file, a "tri-square" (why can't they just call it "triangular"?) file and a flat file, but more will come over the next few days.
The "variable stroke mechanism" (adjustable eccentric bearing) is a beautiful design. Here are a couple of videos of it running with somewhere near maximum stroke length (first slowly, then a bit quicker):
I'm feeling rather chuffed with that.
Oh, and if anyone decides to make one of these filing machines, the hold-down mechanism drawings specify two of each of items 1, 2 & 6. It only needs 1 of each. Let me know if you want to make this machine and I'll send you the extras I made (assuming they haven't made it into the bin by then).
I don't see any grease nipples?
Dr.Al
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There aren't any (in the design or the reality). Should there be?
The rotary motion uses bearings; the up-and-down motion uses bearings running on ground steel shafts and cast iron "bushes" (if that's the right term) running on a ground steel shaft. I'll probably use oil here and there, but otherwise rely on the sealed bearings. It's not as if it's a machine that's going to be running constantly for years.
Do say though if you think I'm missing something
It's your choice. Either way a useful bit of kit. Well done.
wouldn't worry about it, not like it's a production tool for 8 hours a day, like you say regular oiling will be fine. Any grease would just collect and build up with the filings, the thin oil will "flush" out the bushes better than a grease.
Arc Tourist
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That's a great addition to your workshop.
As all the hydraulic guys seem to be on holiday until after New Year, this afternoon I made a big lump of scrap aluminium into smaller lumps of usable aluminium.
The big flange is 48mm thick and the boss another 48mm on top of that - with the help of my Aldi bandsaw of course.
Now to start facing it in the mill.
selectedgrub
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Can I be dumb and ask the use of a boring bar sleeve? I will assume it’s a sleeve that slips over the bar with the correct OD for the hole so stope rattle/ flex of the bar??
Kram
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Sleeves are used in round bore holders instead of the normal slotted holders. Advantage is that you can swap sleeve or boring bar and they should be on centre height with no adjustment. The other reason is my tool post standard holders are only 14mm high, my modified ones are 25 and 32mm.
The flex issue is almost gone if you use carbide shank bars. I can have nearly 200mm stick out on a 20mm bar for light cuts, 100-120mm for heavy cuts with no chatter.
Reminds me I never finished the sleeves, two need boring and all 3 need cross drilling.
The flex issue is almost gone if you use carbide shank bars. I can have nearly 200mm stick out on a 20mm bar for light cuts, 100-120mm for heavy cuts with no chatter.
Reminds me I never finished the sleeves, two need boring and all 3 need cross drilling.
selectedgrub
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Instead of milling this from one piece with my WE 15-125 I just bolted and clamped it to stainless and filled up the cavity. Then plugged the 2 bolt holes.
It's dirty but it works as it is only small detail.
It's dirty but it works as it is only small detail.
