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I wouldn't like to guess! Fair bit of labour on top too, all has to be purged, welded, cleaned, pressure tested... I wouldn't be suprised if the straight stuff works out £300+/metre all told
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Made my mill mobile.
1/2" plate cut from scrap RSJ.
Some rectangular box out my scrap pile. Some knock off footmaster levelling casters off eBay, 500 kg each.
I didn't want to bolt them straight to the cabinet as I would have gained 4". I am going to put a 5" or 6" riser block on to lift the head. I would then be struggling to undo the drawbar. So came up with this idea.
Arc welded with my Sherman. Esab 6013 3.2mm rods. Getting the hang of fillets now. No expert by any stretch but it's not going to fall apart!
1/2" plate cut from scrap RSJ.
Some rectangular box out my scrap pile. Some knock off footmaster levelling casters off eBay, 500 kg each.
I didn't want to bolt them straight to the cabinet as I would have gained 4". I am going to put a 5" or 6" riser block on to lift the head. I would then be struggling to undo the drawbar. So came up with this idea.
Arc welded with my Sherman. Esab 6013 3.2mm rods. Getting the hang of fillets now. No expert by any stretch but it's not going to fall apart!
Kram
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- Sussex
Green sand mixed up and spread out on two steel sheets to dry, still far too wet. The 3 old towels I had it wrapped in went in the wash. Landlord was out so I got away with it
wasnt too happy when I bought the sheets indoors..Degassing tool for aluminium crimped on some 2.4mm filler.
Drilling the million 1mm holes was a challenge. Its a size I rarely use so had 4 new drills to compare. 3 good HSS bits snapped from running far to slow and 10 rubbish chinese bits.. no worse than they started, one hole between them.
The drill from my good cobalt set drilled 3/4 of them. I attempted to resharpen with a loupe and hone - got two more holes before it snapped.
Chopped some pine to make the sand boxes.
Got welding stuff out, went to wash hands and clean visor. Come back and its raining
packed away. Should have done the welding first. 
Made a jig to locate bits of a chassis before cutting it in half and putting a new back half on. Kept having to remind myself that things were for location, not load bearing, and so didn't need to be beefed up! Flipped everything over, and now time to weld all the holes in the chassis forward of the swap, and get it all into shape.
It is a 110 300tdi, with a td5 back end being swapped in to allow a different fuel tank unit to be used, and because the back of the chassis was basically missing.
It is a 110 300tdi, with a td5 back end being swapped in to allow a different fuel tank unit to be used, and because the back of the chassis was basically missing.
Any tricks/tips? I'm tempted to cast some 50mm dia ali bars to make rollers as I'm planning on building some compact machine skates. It'll be more fun and cheaper than buying a 750mm long bar of nylon...
Kram
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I have learnt lots but its better explained by Olfoundryman. The short version is
Dont use open molds, as I have been. Sand molds allow control over how it fills.
Filling sprue should be small and tapered to reduce turbulence.
Feeder not too high.
Any thicker sections need to be chilled, to ensure they solidify before the feeder.
Top of feeder needs to be kept hot, to allow for the mold to shink without voids.
Dont use open molds, as I have been. Sand molds allow control over how it fills.
Filling sprue should be small and tapered to reduce turbulence.
Feeder not too high.
Any thicker sections need to be chilled, to ensure they solidify before the feeder.
Top of feeder needs to be kept hot, to allow for the mold to shink without voids.
Prajna
Fixing things for the love of it
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- 623
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- Castelo Branco, Portugal
Guitar Stand Mk III. This one folds (almost) flat. If I'm gonna make more I will need to spend some time making jigs. Working with 20mm SHS with 1.5mm walls @50A, 2mm 6013s needs a near perfect fit-up to allow tidy welds and avoid burning holes in the open ends of the tubes, so I need to prep joints better. I have an old chop saw with a wood blade but it has TC teeth that do the job on this thin stock if I go slow and carefully. The problem is where the A frame meets the feet at a 20deg angle in two axes. Making that cut is very difficult to do accurately as is positioning it for tacking.
It's a little taller and wider than the original and the pad at the top stands a little proud to accommodate the slight bow in the back of the guitar, all leading to a better grip on the guitar and a more stable stand.
It's a little taller and wider than the original and the pad at the top stands a little proud to accommodate the slight bow in the back of the guitar, all leading to a better grip on the guitar and a more stable stand.
Not sure if this is "something I made today" or "something I acquired today"..
Anyway I bought the Bridgeport handle, with some other stuff for a fiver on ebay.
Made an adaptor to make it fit my Richmond Mill, add a spindle I made earlier.
I had intended to cut the dogs directly into the Bridgeport handle, but it wouldn't fit between the dividing head and the cutter, so I made an adaptor instead..
So now I need to tidy up the handle, paint it black, job done.
Anyway I bought the Bridgeport handle, with some other stuff for a fiver on ebay.
Made an adaptor to make it fit my Richmond Mill, add a spindle I made earlier.
I had intended to cut the dogs directly into the Bridgeport handle, but it wouldn't fit between the dividing head and the cutter, so I made an adaptor instead..
So now I need to tidy up the handle, paint it black, job done.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,315
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
An hour yesterday before I came home then the same again today I made a pillion footpeg to see what I thought of it.
Turned a bit of 2" round bar down to 1.1/2" for 150mm then put it in the indexing head and milled it out.
Gave it a quick polish.
Etched, anodised, dyed and sealed then engraved it.
Also took the brake lever with me this morning.
First I polished it, here is it half done.
Then anodised and dyed it to try and get a match with the footpegs, it is close but with it being a different aluminium it looks a bit different. Still matches better than the bare aluminium and it shouldn't corrode. I have measured up for the front pedal section and I will make one in aluminium instead of the steel.
Turned a bit of 2" round bar down to 1.1/2" for 150mm then put it in the indexing head and milled it out.
Gave it a quick polish.
Etched, anodised, dyed and sealed then engraved it.
Also took the brake lever with me this morning.
First I polished it, here is it half done.
Then anodised and dyed it to try and get a match with the footpegs, it is close but with it being a different aluminium it looks a bit different. Still matches better than the bare aluminium and it shouldn't corrode. I have measured up for the front pedal section and I will make one in aluminium instead of the steel.
DennisCA
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- Finland
A long wire antenna, a first try anyway.
Antenna is connected with a rope to the house, insulators are made from two zip ties. The antenna wire itself is mig-wire .8mm. Soldered a wire to the end and ran it through the window to the receiver. Still no proper ground however, too much snow and the ground is frozen so I cannot drive an earthing rod in.
Works a lot better on SW than MW or LW, currently listening to something I think is american. I plan to make a longer one that is higher up, and using a transformer and coax cable to shield against noise.
Antenna is connected with a rope to the house, insulators are made from two zip ties. The antenna wire itself is mig-wire .8mm. Soldered a wire to the end and ran it through the window to the receiver. Still no proper ground however, too much snow and the ground is frozen so I cannot drive an earthing rod in.
Works a lot better on SW than MW or LW, currently listening to something I think is american. I plan to make a longer one that is higher up, and using a transformer and coax cable to shield against noise.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 11,717
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- Sevenoaks, UK
Not made but fitted. Converted a hinged door to a sliding one at my old man's. This on the basis he is eventually coming out of hospital! (Hence me not straying far from home at the mo). 93, with various serious ailments, nothing's guaranteed. Never was there a house more ill suited to an elderly person unsteady on their feet. Over the years he's resisted to the last, offers to rewire, re-do the bathroom etc.
Anyway, if he fell against the inward opening bathroom door, we'd have had to break the door down. Bloody thing fought me all the way. Had to let timber sections in what was a hardboard faced, hollow door from 1960. Thank God for Gorilla Glue & screws. Letting the filler dry, for we sand and paint tomorrow!
Anyway, if he fell against the inward opening bathroom door, we'd have had to break the door down. Bloody thing fought me all the way. Had to let timber sections in what was a hardboard faced, hollow door from 1960. Thank God for Gorilla Glue & screws. Letting the filler dry, for we sand and paint tomorrow!
Kram
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- Sussex
Casting boxes. Cut a 140mm wide, warped length of pine in half and 170mm lengths, sander to get them alll flat and equal.
Clamps, aluminium square, glue and screwed up.
Done. Within 0.5mm of the intended 150mm inside length and square enough, which is a first for me. The aluminium square and bench clamps help!
When glues dry they will get another sand, then I'll add some blocks and locating pins.
I keep mixing up the sand, starting to get dry, still sticking to hands so its not ready yet.
And a small test I intended to do montha ago, mixed up some copper sulphate layout acid. It works but, much better dipping than brush.
Clamps, aluminium square, glue and screwed up.
Done. Within 0.5mm of the intended 150mm inside length and square enough, which is a first for me. The aluminium square and bench clamps help!
When glues dry they will get another sand, then I'll add some blocks and locating pins.
I keep mixing up the sand, starting to get dry, still sticking to hands so its not ready yet.
And a small test I intended to do montha ago, mixed up some copper sulphate layout acid. It works but, much better dipping than brush.
Last edited:
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,315
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Tonight I headed down to the workshop and made a pedal part for the rear brake lever for my bike. Not sure if I dyed it enough or not as I didn't have the brake lever with me, if it is not dark enough then easy enough to strip off the anodising and do again.
You need an aerial tuning unit or ATU - a coil with tappings at various points essentially. The aerial you have made is called an inverted "L". Had one coming into my bedroom when I was a lad. I think the timber I nailed to the oak tree is still there..A long wire antenna, a first try anyway.
Antenna is connected with a rope to the house, insulators are made from two zip ties. The antenna wire itself is mig-wire .8mm. Soldered a wire to the end and ran it through the window to the receiver. Still no proper ground however, too much snow and the ground is frozen so I cannot drive an earthing rod in.
Works a lot better on SW than MW or LW, currently listening to something I think is american. I plan to make a longer one that is higher up, and using a transformer and coax cable to shield against noise.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 5,749
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- Ireland
Yep, even on receive it makes a difference. Not essential, though.
I've noticed prices of receive-only ATUs have remained healthy over the past couple of years.
Of course, there are kits from China, for quite cheap.
DennisCA
Member
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- Finland
If it's just a coil with various taps, it sounds like a coil antenna for a primitive crystal radio.
I was recommended anyway to set up a 9:1 unun and a 1:1 choke first. That would supposedly improve my antenna on it's own I was told, coax doesn't pick up noise as much. Ofcourse my receiver is the old type and does not have coax plugs for AM, only two wires.
I was recommended anyway to set up a 9:1 unun and a 1:1 choke first. That would supposedly improve my antenna on it's own I was told, coax doesn't pick up noise as much. Ofcourse my receiver is the old type and does not have coax plugs for AM, only two wires.
MattF
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What formula have you used for the layout fluid?
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,315
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Fitted the brake pedal, it is too light in colour will have to either re-anodise or maybe just make a new one. I think I will dye it to match the foot peg I made rather than the colour I dyed the lever.
Also fitted the pillion peg that I skimmed a bit off last night and now it folds properly.
will have to either re-anodise or maybe just make a new one. I think I will dye it to match the foot peg I made rather than the colour I dyed the lever.Also fitted the pillion peg that I skimmed a bit off last night and now it folds properly.
slim_boy_fat
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