Stuff you have made today

[Onoff]

I've sprayed it with cold galv in rattle cans. Actually, I ran out but have another couple of cans on their way. I will clad it with wriggly transparent roofing sheets.

If the frame starts to rust how easy will it be to remove the sheets and treat the frame?

You must post photos!

 

[MattF]

Added a MT1 tools holder, to the shelf behind the lathe.

 

[northwest]

A little more constructive today, I machined the peg in the topslide for a better fit on the Harrison and modified the block I had made to accommodate the toolpost I picked up from @Welderpaul seems like eons ago, fits together lovely:

 

[daleyd]

Aye, occasionally, at the workshop as we speak ( or really type) making the extension pedal for the guy on the AT forum because I am liking it a lot on todays run, proof here

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Where do you put the dug?

 

[Kram]

Made up a little mold for casting aluminum bar billets, internal dims are 59.8mm x 80.8mm long but final piece will be 44mm od x 35mm long so allows for shrinkage and will be used as rollers for diy machine skates from 100*50 channel.

Bolt is flush with inside plate face so if the chunk of ali gets stuck I can remove the bolt then punch it out.

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Skate model with a rotating foot on a needle roller thrust bearing version. Overall dims are roughly 100*100*65mm with a max load of 1000kg

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Looks good. You wont need the hole it will fall out once cooled off.

Theres two good options to use an open mold, one is to bottom fill - you'd need to drill out the thread, and making up a crude sand box with a runner and gate. You'd Chop the runner between pours and push out.

Other way, is to tilt cast, with the mold starting horizontal as the pour begins, it will reduce turbulence and oxides, but not nearly as much as bottom filling.

Steel mold is good, it will control how it cools. Blow torch the top to reduce any shrinkage voids in the middle.

 

[Hood]

Where do you put the dug?

He doesn't get at the weekends, he kind of allows it on the understanding I take the van all week

 

[Bki26]

) Looks good. You wont need the hole it will fall out once cooled off.

Theres two good options to use an open mold, one is to bottom fill - you'd need to drill out the thread, and making up a crude sand box with a runner and gate. You'd Chop the runner between pours and push out.

Other way, is to tilt cast, with the mold starting horizontal as the pour begins, it will reduce turbulence and oxides, but not nearly as much as bottom filling.

Steel mold is good, it will control how it cools. Blow torch the top to reduce any shrinkage voids in the middle.

My plan is to just pour into it after preheating it slightly, will see how it goes but having done lead into bread trays (shaped like gold bars and feel like it but sadly aren't ) and that went okay I think just pouring into it should be fine for me

 

[Prajna]

If the frame starts to rust how easy will it be to remove the sheets and treat the frame?

You must post photos!

I'll post another photo when I'm cladding it. The plan is to use self tapping roofing bolts to fix it. Ones I have are 32mm, so I'll probably want to grind them flush where they poke through.

 

[Maker]

Made a wooden roll cage for my Bisley drawers. Convenient place to stick my surface plate too.



I need to make up some leveling feet to go under the plate, conveniently the frame lands right at 20% in from the edge of the plate (Almost like it was made to measure ) so it can rest on Airy/Bessel points and keep the purists happy. Personally I don't think it matters, I briefly considered floating it in a pan of mercury to rub everyone up the wrong way, but I couldn't find a pan.

 

[roblane65]

some canny bits of timber there , is that the rustic finish your talents are wasted it should be on etsy as a side table

 

[Maker]

some canny bits of timber there , is that the rustic finish your talents are wasted it should be on etsy as a side table

That's the "Don't look too close coz it's nothing like square" finish.

 

[roblane65]

I was going to ask for some close ups , then thought I wouldn't dare post close ups of most of my stuff Functional is the term I'd use

 

[slim_boy_fat]

...but I couldn't find a pan

Or any mercury

 

[Maker]

Or any mercury

You don't want to know.

 

[dobbslc]

I used to play with a test tube full of mercury when I was a kid, we found it in this old mans shed in an overgrown garden that was full of test tubes and other chemistry artifacts.
I dddon't thhinkkkk it d d d did me anyyy harmmmmurr....

 

[pawsnizzy]

I did mine ACME but bushed the nut as well .
If i was doing it again i would use a ball screw and nut.
If you use a DRO it can be any pitch you like

Any suggestions for suitable dimensions, John?

 

[My Old Landy]

I finally got some time to make a remote for the Raglan lathe

 

[Hood]

I have only had the Hartford Super Spacer for 25 years or so, bought it at a roup. The indexing plunger is supposed to be spring loaded but it was missing the plug and spring and also the lever itself could pull out due to the dog point being broken off the screw. It works fine and has done so for all those years but I have always been promising myself I would sort it and today was the day

Took out the screw, was going to make a new one.

Instead I took the lazy option, I bored out the end, threaded m5 and put a set screw in then turned the threads off.

Next up was the plunger spring and cap. Found a spring and put a bit of 8mm dia stainless inside it to act as a guide then turned a thread and bored out a bit of 1" dia steel, it is a UNEF thread, 1"-20TPI.

All back together and working great, shame it took me 1/4 of a century to get round to it

 

[Lewis_RX8]

I finally got some time to make a remote for the Raglan lathe
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So what do the fancy buttons other than red and green do , Sure the prime minster carries something like that in a brief case around linked to the trident missiles

 

[minimutly]

I finally got some time to make a remote for the Raglan lathe
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Jeepers, what exactly can you control with all that?