KemppiFrog
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Very 'clean' lines. I find that angle, set pointy bit up, makes good bases for charcoal. I set the gaps at 5mm.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
slim_boy_fat
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Got a link, please?
Blue Chips
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- Maine, USA
I've been putting in a new upstairs bathroom in the old house we're restoring, and I found a bidet that pretty closely matched the style of the bog that we're installing, but for me, the bidet wasn't tall enough for comfort. I wanted it to match the height of the toilet, which is about 17 inches from the floor to the porcelain, plus another 3/4 inch for the seat. I couldn't find a matching bidet of this height for what I considered to be a decent price, and the looks of the generic off-the-shelf plastic toilet 'risers/spacers' that I've seen (so far, at least) aren't bad but I wanted something that looked like it was made specifically for this bidet. So I decided to fabricate a custom riser, which was a good excuse to use up a lot of leftover resin, filler materials, gel coat, etc., while still within their shelf life dates. It turned out to be more work than anticipated (doesn't it always?). However, it was a nice little project to occupy a few evenings and a couple of bad weather days...and it didn't cost much, since I had most of the supplies already. Here are the basic steps:
After placing the bidet on some supports at the desired height and screwing it down securely to a piece of plywood, I placed non-drying modeling clay under it and formed it in the general shape that I wanted for the riser. I didn't try to get the clay surface perfectly smooth, since the final casting would end up being coated with gel coat and sanded to remove surface imperfections.
I coated the clay with PVA mould release and created a mould around it with a couple of layers of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin. After that cured sufficiently, for extra rigidity I applied an additional coating of resin thickened with fumed silica.
After the mould had fully cured, I lifted off the bidet and removed the clay, cleaned the mould, and inserted a chunk of styrofoam to take up most of the interior volume.
I levelled the mould, applied mould release, and poured a deep-pour type epoxy casting resin mixed with chopped e-glass strands into the mould in multiple thinner layers, with long enough intervals between pours to allow each layer to cure enough to avoid overheating, but still produce a good bond with subsequent layers, per the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines.
The multi-layer pour process took place over quite a long time, but it's important to be patient, since overheating can be a serious problem with deep pours or large volumes of epoxy or polyester resins. It's essential to obtain full information from the resin manufacturer in order to avoid problems such as overheating, etc. The last pour was a thin layer of non-reinforced resin to allow self-levelling.
After removing the casting from the mould (which required cutting the mould apart), I sanded the outer surface smooth (the other surfaces won't be visible, so they only needed rough sanding). I then applied a layer of white gel coat, sanded that smooth, and applied a couple of coats of white epoxy appliance paint.
The epoxy paint will take a long time to develop maximum hardness, so I wasn't able to permanently attach the riser yet, but I temporarily placed it gently on the upside-down bidet to check the fit. The joint will eventually be caulked with white silicone.
For most people, the amount of work might not be worth the effort, but I had fun doing it and didn't spend much cash.
My standard disclaimer: This is an experimental, prototype device. I am not a professional in this discipline, and I do not guarantee the safety, efficacy, or applicability of any devices, designs, or ideas that I have described or depicted here. Any use of these devices, designs, or ideas is entirely at your own risk and responsibility.
After placing the bidet on some supports at the desired height and screwing it down securely to a piece of plywood, I placed non-drying modeling clay under it and formed it in the general shape that I wanted for the riser. I didn't try to get the clay surface perfectly smooth, since the final casting would end up being coated with gel coat and sanded to remove surface imperfections.
I coated the clay with PVA mould release and created a mould around it with a couple of layers of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin. After that cured sufficiently, for extra rigidity I applied an additional coating of resin thickened with fumed silica.
After the mould had fully cured, I lifted off the bidet and removed the clay, cleaned the mould, and inserted a chunk of styrofoam to take up most of the interior volume.
I levelled the mould, applied mould release, and poured a deep-pour type epoxy casting resin mixed with chopped e-glass strands into the mould in multiple thinner layers, with long enough intervals between pours to allow each layer to cure enough to avoid overheating, but still produce a good bond with subsequent layers, per the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines.
The multi-layer pour process took place over quite a long time, but it's important to be patient, since overheating can be a serious problem with deep pours or large volumes of epoxy or polyester resins. It's essential to obtain full information from the resin manufacturer in order to avoid problems such as overheating, etc. The last pour was a thin layer of non-reinforced resin to allow self-levelling.
After removing the casting from the mould (which required cutting the mould apart), I sanded the outer surface smooth (the other surfaces won't be visible, so they only needed rough sanding). I then applied a layer of white gel coat, sanded that smooth, and applied a couple of coats of white epoxy appliance paint.
The epoxy paint will take a long time to develop maximum hardness, so I wasn't able to permanently attach the riser yet, but I temporarily placed it gently on the upside-down bidet to check the fit. The joint will eventually be caulked with white silicone.
For most people, the amount of work might not be worth the effort, but I had fun doing it and didn't spend much cash.
My standard disclaimer: This is an experimental, prototype device. I am not a professional in this discipline, and I do not guarantee the safety, efficacy, or applicability of any devices, designs, or ideas that I have described or depicted here. Any use of these devices, designs, or ideas is entirely at your own risk and responsibility.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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What on earth is that ?
123hotchef
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you will see soon enough!
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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redlig
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What do you mean YOU made some dust I recon it's the young lad with his radio controlled tractor kit.
slim_boy_fat
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^^ Many thanks, bookmarked for a future project. 
Tupers
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Kram
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First go on tig for a few months.. didnt have any parts ready so just messing about.. have about 15bar gas left.
Chipping hammer ready to grind.
Filled in some porosity on casting, and some anodising connection wires. These will be painted in epoxy to be sure they dont get eaten.
Chipping hammer ready to grind.
Filled in some porosity on casting, and some anodising connection wires. These will be painted in epoxy to be sure they dont get eaten.
selectedgrub
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Some removeable neon graffiti on the church in the dead of night.
If you look carefully you can see the stained windows
If you look carefully you can see the stained windows
redlig
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What is the saying? " the bigger the toy the smaller the W****y" .
MattF
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KemppiFrog
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vags? Never owned a VW group car... Have to maintain some standards!Some of us blokes must have vag's then.
Kram
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I havent done much stick welding but so far, the general shape of chipping hammers is crap.
This is my design of how a slag rake/hammer should be. HSS on the point and along the curved top for deburring, but the part I imagine will get most use for slag is the radiused end. All ground sharp and seems to be keeping the edge.
HSS should be annealed around 500c after hardening/tig, and that it gives a different oxide pattern to other steels, this is the result, temp was guessed, could be well out
This is my design of how a slag rake/hammer should be. HSS on the point and along the curved top for deburring, but the part I imagine will get most use for slag is the radiused end. All ground sharp and seems to be keeping the edge.
HSS should be annealed around 500c after hardening/tig, and that it gives a different oxide pattern to other steels, this is the result, temp was guessed, could be well out
KemppiFrog
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Needs to be a bit sharper? Meself, old files get pressed into service, as nicely hard on the edges. Of course, the slag normaly just peels off, but maybe that's just luckI havent done much stick welding but so far, the general shape of chipping hammers is crap.
This is my design of how a slag rake/hammer should be. HSS on the point and along the curved top for deburring, but the part I imagine will get most use for slag is the radiused end. All ground sharp and seems to be keeping the edge.
View attachment 338918
HSS should be annealed around 500c after hardening/tig, and that it gives a different oxide pattern to other steels, this is the result, temp was guessed, could be well out
View attachment 338919
Mick Annick
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Nothing wrong with VW’s, as long as you have deep pockets
