- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Perhaps she could have got a contract with Palitoy!
You'd have ended up as a child labour "machinist" running up loads of AM uniforms after school!
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Not without a nice little lamp above them.You wanna get them sold on etsy you'll make a fortune ! btw that brickwork needs tidying up !
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Olderisbetter
Member
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My dad was a cobbler and lots of my AM stuff was home made, tiny boots and holsters the best things in life are free or home made, still got lots of AM stuff.Not exactly made today and not by me but by my late Mum. Probably 50 years ago. She was a seamstress by trade having been pretty much adopted by a Jewish family when she fell on hard times after coming over from Eire at 15.
Anyway...as a kid I liked anything to do with Action Man. Not having much spare money, this was Mum's take on a German army uniform:
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The dexterity she had was pretty amazing. Gutting when dementia got her
Maybe we need a toys i used to have that made me the welder i am today section.
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Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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That's a nice job and a great find. However I can't help but appreciate the irony. Taken in by a Jewish family, German uniform?
Go back a couple of generations and I'm German on both sides anyway.
On Mum's side some came over in the early 1700s fleeing religious persecution. Gets proper complicated.
ajlelectronics
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Wasn't it Yootha Joyce who was always looking for an Action Man with gripping hands? That just shows that it was a fictional comedy.Don't forget the gripping hands!
today I had a little boring job to do
for one of my toy boats I needed to make bronze bush for the prop shaft that has an O ring to seal it.....
......and the prop shaft will a 1.00mm stainless welding rod. I was thinking of using a carbon fibre prop shaft but with the sideways loading I think the stainless steel may be more wear resistant. I also wanted to make it removeable so it ended up being a a short bolt that was M6 x 0.5mm with a 7mm hex head so the half machined bolt.
so then its cut off and centred in the hole in the middle
and then a recess was bored to fit the O ring, the hole that the boring tool is going in is 2.4mm, and the boring tool will go though that, the recess was then cut to stop the O ring coming out
and the final item on a 1mm welding rod.
for one of my toy boats I needed to make bronze bush for the prop shaft that has an O ring to seal it.....
......and the prop shaft will a 1.00mm stainless welding rod. I was thinking of using a carbon fibre prop shaft but with the sideways loading I think the stainless steel may be more wear resistant. I also wanted to make it removeable so it ended up being a a short bolt that was M6 x 0.5mm with a 7mm hex head so the half machined bolt.
so then its cut off and centred in the hole in the middle
and then a recess was bored to fit the O ring, the hole that the boring tool is going in is 2.4mm, and the boring tool will go though that, the recess was then cut to stop the O ring coming out
and the final item on a 1mm welding rod.
Dev
8th generation, Weyland type
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- 1,277
Made some decent progress on my lowrider3 today. ive ordered the bits that are holding me up - crimp on connectors for the endstops, 16 tooth pulleys (I thought I had some but can’t find them).
The bulk of the assembly is done, it’s mostly wiring now.
docs.v1e.com
The bulk of the assembly is done, it’s mostly wiring now.
LowRider CNC V3 - V1 Engineering Documentation
docs.v1e.com
Beeezer
Things are really chaining for the better….
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Gizza job….Wasn't it Yootha Joyce who was always looking for an Action Man with gripping hands? That just shows that it was a fictional comedy.
Erie Fred
Member
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Looks very close to JD green.
Blue Chips
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Work in progress:
Finally got the rest of the marble tiles mortared onto the backer boards of the shower enclosure in the future upstairs bathroom of our 'old house' project. I used a polymer-modified mortar, which is extremely tenacious stuff; I had to replace one tile that somehow had slipped a bit, and it wasn't easy!
It was the first time I used this particular leveling clip system on a tile job, and I think it worked pretty well.
The next steps to finishing the tiles will be:
- Clean up the mortar remnants.
- Grout the tiles with a polymer-modified sanded grout.
- Caulk the outer edges.
- Seal the tiles and the grout with a high-end sealer.
I hope to get those steps done over the coming week or so, sandwiching them between other tasks I'm working on. My lower back has been acting up a bit, so we'll see how it goes.
Finally got the rest of the marble tiles mortared onto the backer boards of the shower enclosure in the future upstairs bathroom of our 'old house' project. I used a polymer-modified mortar, which is extremely tenacious stuff; I had to replace one tile that somehow had slipped a bit, and it wasn't easy!
It was the first time I used this particular leveling clip system on a tile job, and I think it worked pretty well.
The next steps to finishing the tiles will be:
- Clean up the mortar remnants.
- Grout the tiles with a polymer-modified sanded grout.
- Caulk the outer edges.
- Seal the tiles and the grout with a high-end sealer.
I hope to get those steps done over the coming week or so, sandwiching them between other tasks I'm working on. My lower back has been acting up a bit, so we'll see how it goes.
slim_boy_fat
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^^ I like the attention to detail with the mitred joints at the window, most would have just used butt joints. 
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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Nice, question is, did you size the tiles to the window, or the window to the tiles?!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Blue Chips
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Thanks. It was a little of both. Here are a few details:
I bought a double-glazed 12" x 12" vinyl-framed window and I used 6" x 12" tiles, which made it a little easier to compute where to cut the hole in the wall so that the grout joints in the wall tiles would align with the window opening. I allowed a little wiggle room, which helped, but I still had to do a little minor trimming, such as on the row of tiles above the window. I designed the hole through the wall so that it would be totally waterproof, both inside and out, and also allow for any minor movement differential (from expansion/contraction) via interior-to-exterior connection gaps filled with flexible marine-grade waterproof polyether caulk. Before caulking, the backer board inside the window opening was coated with waterproof epoxy and the seams reinforced with epoxy and fiberglass backer board tape with an alkali-resistant coating. The exposed edges of the wood sheathing and clapboards were also coated with epoxy before caulking.
As to sizing the tiles inside the window opening itself, I measured and cut those to fit after all of the wall tiles were up.
It worked out pretty well on the outside of the house as far as alignments are concerned, with the top of the window frame at the same height as the top of the adjoining window frame and the bottom aligned with the bottom edge of the clapboard. There's a drip-edge groove under the frame, which you can't see in the photo, and the window is pretty well protected from rain anyway, as it's directly under an eave that extends out roughly 10 inches.
A leveling system can be very handy, especially when the backer board isn't absolutely flat. These backer boards were 'reasonably' flat, but not perfect, as they were installed on rough-sawn studs. The only thing I don't like about leveling clips is that if you get a little too much mortar behind a tile and it squishes out against or inside the clips, it's hard to get it all out while the mortar is wet, so it will require some joint cleaning after the mortar has set, but in this case it wasn't too bad. It only took about half an hour to clean the excess mortar out of the joints in preparation for grouting.Cheers, kicking myself even more, again, that I didn't use a tile levelling system
Thank you. It was a little more work to do it that way, mainly because I had to be fairly precise. I had to re-cut a few of those tiles and do a bit of shimming under the tiles to get the corner bevels and joints to line up well. I bonded the mitre joints together with silicone as I was assembling the tiles, so they're well sealed.^^ I like the attention to detail with the mitred joints at the window, most would have just used butt joints.
BTW, you can see the improvised 'tool' I made to hold the upper two tiles in place while the mortar was setting...just a couple of blocks of wood, a piece of 1/2" all-thread, and a couple of nuts and washers for adjusting the height. Worked a charm, and made from leftover stuff.
I'll post a photo or two if/when I ever finish the grouting and enclosure installation.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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That's the kicker for me. My plasterboards and backer boards were dead flat, as was the floor. It was the perfect surface to tile on.
Trouble is I'd never tiled before and got caught up in the moment. Started with the hardest corner first as well!
Blue Chips
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Well, leveling system or not, it looks like you did a really great job! That represents a lot of work!
The blue lights (LEDs?) in the niches are a nice touch!
