My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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- North Lincs
They look superb, I would be happy with that result!
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Dcal
Member
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- 3,961
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I made a brake bleeding tool from scrap or repurposed stuff.
I was doing a brake service on the bosses car and the brake fluid was due a change.
I was on my own and as brakes are getting more and more complicated to bleed, especially if they get air in the system and as I already had a vacuum pump and a small CO2 bottle that @Onoff gave me I thought I'd make a vacuum bleeder kit.
I removed the valve and tapped a 10mm coupler to suit the M10 x 1mm thread on the valve.
Then welded a boss for a ball valve and hose tail low down.
Initially I was just going to use it to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir.
but it was able to draw the new fluid through the brake calipers without any issues.
I won't use it much, but I will probably also use it for the odd oil change instead of having to use the manual vacuum pump.
I'll need to make an adapter for that but that's a job for another day.
I was doing a brake service on the bosses car and the brake fluid was due a change.
I was on my own and as brakes are getting more and more complicated to bleed, especially if they get air in the system and as I already had a vacuum pump and a small CO2 bottle that @Onoff gave me I thought I'd make a vacuum bleeder kit.
I removed the valve and tapped a 10mm coupler to suit the M10 x 1mm thread on the valve.
Then welded a boss for a ball valve and hose tail low down.
Initially I was just going to use it to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir.
but it was able to draw the new fluid through the brake calipers without any issues.
I won't use it much, but I will probably also use it for the odd oil change instead of having to use the manual vacuum pump.
I'll need to make an adapter for that but that's a job for another day.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 11,700
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Got plenty more of those.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,310
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Made my garage press work.
Got it for free at least 10 years ago but the pump was leaking and soon didn't work at all. Tried to get a seal but the only one I could find wasn't quite right, it kind of worked for a while but then started leaking badly so it got relegated to the shed. Last week I was really needing a press for a job so I had a look around and found a pump from Flowfit that wasn't too bad a price.
Today I didn't have much on so I machined a lump of steel to have a U shape in it.
Then made an end for the ram to take tooling and made a quick tool up to fit into it, wasn't sure how well it would work so didn't spend too much time on it..
I then plasma cut some 4mm thick stainless and tried it out, worked quite well
Bent the angles in the mini brake.
Got it for free at least 10 years ago but the pump was leaking and soon didn't work at all. Tried to get a seal but the only one I could find wasn't quite right, it kind of worked for a while but then started leaking badly so it got relegated to the shed. Last week I was really needing a press for a job so I had a look around and found a pump from Flowfit that wasn't too bad a price.
Today I didn't have much on so I machined a lump of steel to have a U shape in it.
Then made an end for the ram to take tooling and made a quick tool up to fit into it, wasn't sure how well it would work so didn't spend too much time on it..
I then plasma cut some 4mm thick stainless and tried it out, worked quite well
Bent the angles in the mini brake.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- 7,035
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Is it any more effective to bleed under vacuum than pressure bleed brakes ?
Back in the mid 1970's the military series 3 Landrovers rarely ever went back to the factory produced solid pedal once you had worked on the brakes due to the cross over and shuttle system introduced , despite sometimes putting 2x 5 gallone of brake fluid through the pressure bleeder . I never did solve the conundrum before I left HMF .
Of anything specific in it or just general
?I do plan to take some new ones & happy to post.
Don't get too excited though, cos I was on a budget, re-used some bits, and I'm no craftsman & making it up as I went along a bit
OK.... a few pics of the camper. The worktops (lift up over the hob, and a bi-fold one that folds in half & then sits on folding brackets to extend the work surface when using the sink) are removed atm as they were getting several coats of Danish Oil (the worktops are from an old Rubberwood kitchen table I picked up locally off FBMP & cut up into sections). They'll be back on before the weekend.
Van as bought last Nov
Much work later (& still quite a few bits to do)....
Sliding door window, raised bed window, fridge vents, cut-down roof rack (keeping just the 3 main support roof bars that have inner structural supports under the glassfibre roof, that I've also used to carry my roof insulation and ceiling battens etc), and the Fiamma F45i 3-metre wind-out awning).
Small top opening window above the sofa
Rear bulkhead and garage/services. Water tank above rh arch, Kero tank for night heater tucked under at the back. In front of the water tank is the Shurflo pump & the Fiamma Agglomerator/mini pressure vessel. DC fuse board & switches for work light, garage lights, cigar lighter sockets & a couple of spares (one of which might well be to feed a 12v - 3v buck converter to remove the need for 2x C batteries for the boiler ignition at some point).
(Area painted in blue garage floor paint - cos it's quite hardy & weatherproof, & cos I had a big tin of it )
Ferroli Pegaso 11 instant water heater. Designed for Static Caravans, but can operate on 1-bar input pressure & has DC 3v ignition (LPG variant). Turn on a hot tap & the Shurflo and boiler kick in (as long as I've opened the door, turned on the gas, opened the valves etc).
Makeshift flue stowage of a bowl and a hinged ply loop at the top (flue sits in it upside-down on the weather cowl). Flip up the top loop, turn over & plonk the flue onto the top of the boiler - takes a few seconds). Pukka SS flexible gas line and cold In / hot out flexi water pipes. All plumbing otherwise is mostly 12mm Speedfit stuff.
The unpainted bit is the insulated hatch through to living space (handy for longer items if needs be, but also just in case a door handle or lock failed to give 2nd access).
AC hookup Dis Board, wee suitcase genny storage (mtb tools behind the wastemaster). In the corner unsighted is a 6kg Propane cylinder for the hob/grill & fridge. Top right is a 2nd 12vdc pump above the main water tank. This can be used to pump water into or out of the main tank, and can be plugged via hoselock pipe to the cold system in the event the Shurflo packed up. Also for washing down the bike post-ride (slightly higher pressure than the shurflo main system pump).
View from swivel passenger seat (worktops not on atm). Loo /loo door behind drivers seat. Bed is accessed by stepping on the sofa, plus there is a boat-type fold down mini step as well.
Galley kitchen has a 3-way fridge, 2-burner hob, grill, sink with extending hot/cold mixer tap, drainer. 230vac power socket inside for fridge, plus a double on the end (there's also a double socket at the back of the garage).
Under the sofa, the box houses 2 x 110AH batteries, the Spit Charger, an AC intelligent Charger, and the night heater. (Night heater draws air in from vents and the space under the extended cab floor step, through a duct box under the Loo into the sofa box, then blows heated air back into the living space by your feet).
There a switch panel on the angle between the over-sofa storage & the bed. This is for the sofa downlights, the internal cupboard lights, a USB panel, the bedroom main ceiling light, and to isolated the Shurflo pump when travelling. There are 2 beside lamps which are touch on/off, and touch dimmable. The variable speed extractor fan controls are there also (the van came with a rotating roof vent, so I fitted a dc fan to the bottom of it, so the vent cylinder now has 2 functions - and means I didn't need to make another aperture in the roof).
Van as bought last Nov
Much work later (& still quite a few bits to do)....
Sliding door window, raised bed window, fridge vents, cut-down roof rack (keeping just the 3 main support roof bars that have inner structural supports under the glassfibre roof, that I've also used to carry my roof insulation and ceiling battens etc), and the Fiamma F45i 3-metre wind-out awning).
Small top opening window above the sofa
Rear bulkhead and garage/services. Water tank above rh arch, Kero tank for night heater tucked under at the back. In front of the water tank is the Shurflo pump & the Fiamma Agglomerator/mini pressure vessel. DC fuse board & switches for work light, garage lights, cigar lighter sockets & a couple of spares (one of which might well be to feed a 12v - 3v buck converter to remove the need for 2x C batteries for the boiler ignition at some point).
(Area painted in blue garage floor paint - cos it's quite hardy & weatherproof, & cos I had a big tin of it
)Ferroli Pegaso 11 instant water heater. Designed for Static Caravans, but can operate on 1-bar input pressure & has DC 3v ignition (LPG variant). Turn on a hot tap & the Shurflo and boiler kick in (as long as I've opened the door, turned on the gas, opened the valves etc).
Makeshift flue stowage of a bowl and a hinged ply loop at the top (flue sits in it upside-down on the weather cowl). Flip up the top loop, turn over & plonk the flue onto the top of the boiler - takes a few seconds). Pukka SS flexible gas line and cold In / hot out flexi water pipes. All plumbing otherwise is mostly 12mm Speedfit stuff.
The unpainted bit is the insulated hatch through to living space (handy for longer items if needs be, but also just in case a door handle or lock failed to give 2nd access).
AC hookup Dis Board, wee suitcase genny storage (mtb tools behind the wastemaster). In the corner unsighted is a 6kg Propane cylinder for the hob/grill & fridge. Top right is a 2nd 12vdc pump above the main water tank. This can be used to pump water into or out of the main tank, and can be plugged via hoselock pipe to the cold system in the event the Shurflo packed up. Also for washing down the bike post-ride (slightly higher pressure than the shurflo main system pump).
View from swivel passenger seat (worktops not on atm). Loo /loo door behind drivers seat. Bed is accessed by stepping on the sofa, plus there is a boat-type fold down mini step as well.
Galley kitchen has a 3-way fridge, 2-burner hob, grill, sink with extending hot/cold mixer tap, drainer. 230vac power socket inside for fridge, plus a double on the end (there's also a double socket at the back of the garage).
Under the sofa, the box houses 2 x 110AH batteries, the Spit Charger, an AC intelligent Charger, and the night heater. (Night heater draws air in from vents and the space under the extended cab floor step, through a duct box under the Loo into the sofa box, then blows heated air back into the living space by your feet).
There a switch panel on the angle between the over-sofa storage & the bed. This is for the sofa downlights, the internal cupboard lights, a USB panel, the bedroom main ceiling light, and to isolated the Shurflo pump when travelling. There are 2 beside lamps which are touch on/off, and touch dimmable. The variable speed extractor fan controls are there also (the van came with a rotating roof vent, so I fitted a dc fan to the bottom of it, so the vent cylinder now has 2 functions - and means I didn't need to make another aperture in the roof).
View to front. I still need to tidy the sliding door with a carpeted 3mm ply card. The leds are the switch panel as you enter the van (top to bottom: Spare, Overhead Light, Loo light, Awning light (not fitted yet), main living ceiling lights. (The kitchen has a separate light with its own built-in switch).
Compact & bijou Thunderbox. Dis Board is for all DC circuits (supply feed from batteries (fused) from under sofa up the van vertical pillar and across to DB. Circuits then go over the cab in conduit at the top if the o/head cupboards to feed the kitchen and living space lighting etc, back to feed the rear switch panel, fan etc for the bed space, and a feed to the garage fuse box.
(Wall between the drivers seat & loo is the original bulkhead cut-down, insulated, carpeted on the drivers side. This retained the shape ensuring the full fore/after seat movement wasn't impeded..... & saved me making something else to fit!).
Switch panel between living space & raised bed. Wee shelf above then the vent for the fan
Yep, I know I have the lpg stickers "somewhere" (which means I need to buy another one
).Didn't know about the heater fuel one though! (I figured anyone would know its got a dirty great diesel tank already).
I'll have to take a shufti online & try to identify the heater fuel one
I looked into stickers right away & Evilbay came up with the goods.
Have ordered "Flammable Liquid" and "LPG" 100mm x 100mm diamond stickers. At under a quid each, job's a good un
Just put the worktops back on.....
I think it finishes off & looks better with the worktops & does give more usable work space. They look OK seeing as they are an old cheapie kitchen table, & I lashed it together. Danish Oil I've not really used before, & when the tin says "5 coats" you really need 5 (well I delegated the oiling & sanding job to the OH)
I think it finishes off & looks better with the worktops & does give more usable work space. They look OK seeing as they are an old cheapie kitchen table, & I lashed it together. Danish Oil I've not really used before, & when the tin says "5 coats" you really need 5 (well I delegated the oiling & sanding job to the OH
)
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
- Messages
- 3,290
- Location
- North Lincs
I had to test some settings for Oak on the laser so made an inspirational sign for my home office
Red'n'Black
Forum Supporter
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- 685
- Location
- Malvern, Worcs
Just put the worktops back on.....
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I think it finishes off & looks better with the worktops & does give more usable work space. They look OK seeing as they are an old cheapie kitchen table, & I lashed it together. Danish Oil I've not really used before, & when the tin says "5 coats" you really need 5 (well I delegated the oiling & sanding job to the OH
That looks fab.
Mine was nothing like as tidy, I did the whole thing in three months and the closer the departure date got, the more I started bodging things.
There are probably some pics somewhere, but all pre digital, I'll dig them out of the loft when I get a minute.
indy4x
Forum Supporter
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- 3,253
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Cheers, thanks for the explanation and pictures, much appreciatedJust put the worktops back on.....
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I think it finishes off & looks better with the worktops & does give more usable work space. They look OK seeing as they are an old cheapie kitchen table, & I lashed it together. Danish Oil I've not really used before, & when the tin says "5 coats" you really need 5 (well I delegated the oiling & sanding job to the OH
Might have mentioned before, we have the same van, bought ready converted but have reworked the electrics, plumbing, sorted out the bodywork and had it painted.
Just curious what other folk had done with the same van
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,310
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Cut a bit of 8mm steel to weld to the press tool I made yesterday.
It serves to locate the stainless blanks.
I cut another couple of blanks today and only after pressing the first one did I realise I had picked up a bit of 5mm to cut rather than the 4mm, I had a heck of a job getting the tool out of the stainless. So as I had another I made another tool that was 2mm smaller and got the next piece of stainless pressed and removed easily.
I welded the sizes on them so I knew for the future.
Pic of the 5mm hook after being in the press brake
Next I wondered if I could make up another tool so that I could bend some 8mm round bar that I will weld to the hooks.
Did one and it worked great so thought I would do the other 3 at once and see if it would work.
Easy
I also welded some ID onto that tool
Now all I have to figure out is how to reduce the marks on the stainless as I press them, I used some slideway oil and it did help but maybe thicker oil or grease may work better.
It serves to locate the stainless blanks.
I cut another couple of blanks today and only after pressing the first one did I realise I had picked up a bit of 5mm to cut rather than the 4mm, I had a heck of a job getting the tool out of the stainless. So as I had another I made another tool that was 2mm smaller and got the next piece of stainless pressed and removed easily.
I welded the sizes on them so I knew for the future.
Pic of the 5mm hook after being in the press brake
Next I wondered if I could make up another tool so that I could bend some 8mm round bar that I will weld to the hooks.
Did one and it worked great so thought I would do the other 3 at once and see if it would work.
Easy
I also welded some ID onto that tool
Now all I have to figure out is how to reduce the marks on the stainless as I press them, I used some slideway oil and it did help but maybe thicker oil or grease may work better.
Yes, I recall you posting about your Renault Master
. I reworked my first camper too, but this one I had to do the lot from scratch. Having the last one to tinker with helped, & I've gained experience & learning on this conversion (I'm in no hurry to do another mind!).I was comfortable enough with the wiring, & found the plumbing was much less grief than expected (that Speedfit stuff is brilliant, while the Shurflo pressure activated pump makes things simpler & works well).
My layout started with the basis of the garage to accept mountain bikes & gear - that leads to a fixed bed, and then worked everything else around the remaining space to fit.
