slim_boy_fat
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Got the NVR wired into the mill, and bolted down to the baseboard. Another of those annoying little jobs off the list 
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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slim_boy_fat
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I have a few more if you want some.
I appreciate the offer, but I have an excess of my own.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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I am having a "No Power tool day". Mrs TYA is not feeling well. So made bread, by hand. Live yeast and away we went.
Roasted spiced chicken, it has cranberry stuffing as well.
Ok, yes I used an oven. I was not going to build a wood oven in a day.
pressbrake1
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What I’m saying is scraping is really really easy and much easier than filing to close limit and there’s nothing wrong getting rid of tight spots or cosmetic stuff but it’s forgetting what scraping is for
Scraping is easy , lathe work is easy etc it’s taking metal off in the right place!
When I was an apprentice we scraped everything even some square flypress weights!
I agree on the dealer thing , go on YouTube and every yank dealer says’ways are in great shape you can see the scraping!”
mpats
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Sore back and a feeling of accomplishment. Finally got round to making the new raised bet in the back garden that she has been reminding me about recently. Few phone calls over the last few days and I found somewhere reasonably locally that had the size sleepers I needed. Took us 2 trips with the truck as a friend has borrowed my trailer but it was only about 40mins away.
Even managed to take the ladies out to lunch between visits to the yard.
Then a few hours making and shoveling and we have some decent progress. 12 foot long and 4 wide, still got a bit of filling to do but I need some compost to go in as well and need to do a couple of tip runs to clear some stuff from the area to finish leveling and see if any more material from the area needs to go in.
Even managed to take the ladies out to lunch between visits to the yard.
Then a few hours making and shoveling and we have some decent progress. 12 foot long and 4 wide, still got a bit of filling to do but I need some compost to go in as well and need to do a couple of tip runs to clear some stuff from the area to finish leveling and see if any more material from the area needs to go in.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Yesterday and possibly today is "No power tool" day. Mrs TYA has taken to being ill.
So I am being quiet.
But the sun was out, I had good music. So I filled my day, yesterday with some fun work. Catching up with some restoration of tools.
Draper Junior Hacksaw.
Complete, The tension nut was seized. The cheep coating had detached and jammed. Old battery acid removed it, with out damage.
Cleaned, de-greased. Wire wool was used to clean the metal. The paint was cleaned with hot water, washing up liquid and wire wool.
Finished. New blade will be fitted before use.
The paint finish is a Halfords rattle can Ford blue. The lacquer was brush applied. But it is a bit soft to use in anger.
A few weeks ago I was given a load of wood and some old garden tools. Most of it was no good, apart from weighing in for £££. Some were kept, for fun.
Garden Shears, as received.
They were striped and cleaned. The blades we dressed with a oil stone. The steel is a good old fashioned grade, when the stone was in use it made the classic "stone on steel" noise.
The handles, looked bad, but with sand paper cleaned up very well.
I made simple puller to pull them off. The rust had "glued" them to the metal.
The handles were steeped in oil for about 5 hours. The small cracks closed up. Then using a mix off bee's wax and white spirit. The metal is finished with bee's wax and Danish oil.
So I am being quiet.
But the sun was out, I had good music. So I filled my day, yesterday with some fun work. Catching up with some restoration of tools.
Draper Junior Hacksaw.
Complete, The tension nut was seized. The cheep coating had detached and jammed. Old battery acid removed it, with out damage.
Cleaned, de-greased. Wire wool was used to clean the metal. The paint was cleaned with hot water, washing up liquid and wire wool.
Finished. New blade will be fitted before use.
The paint finish is a Halfords rattle can Ford blue. The lacquer was brush applied. But it is a bit soft to use in anger.
A few weeks ago I was given a load of wood and some old garden tools. Most of it was no good, apart from weighing in for £££. Some were kept, for fun.
Garden Shears, as received.
They were striped and cleaned. The blades we dressed with a oil stone. The steel is a good old fashioned grade, when the stone was in use it made the classic "stone on steel" noise.
The handles, looked bad, but with sand paper cleaned up very well.
I made simple puller to pull them off. The rust had "glued" them to the metal.
The handles were steeped in oil for about 5 hours. The small cracks closed up. Then using a mix off bee's wax and white spirit. The metal is finished with bee's wax and Danish oil.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Odd. it would not let me add any more words or pictures.
Part two.
The sickle. This one was kept, as I wanted to try something. More later.
Do I need another one?
No.
The handle was split. I wanted to try something my friend sent me from Israel. It is a silicon 2 pack repair system.
It works, but is it worth it? Mot sure. Yes it fills the cracks and is smooth when finished. Will it last, time will tell.
View attachment 175412
The blade, nicked, bent and very blunt.
The blade was heated in a charcoal brazier and the bends removed. Using the brazier The edge was tempered to a light blue shade. The silver line is not paint. But the cutting edge, achieved with a classic scythe stone.
Finished. Paint is left overs from my vice. The handle rivet back on and the wood soaked in linseed oil and wax. That will take a few days to dry and hardened, so it can polished smooth. A smooth handle is important to prevent blisters.
@Tinbasherdan See Comrade.
Part two.
The sickle. This one was kept, as I wanted to try something. More later.
Do I need another one?
No.
The handle was split. I wanted to try something my friend sent me from Israel. It is a silicon 2 pack repair system.
It works, but is it worth it? Mot sure. Yes it fills the cracks and is smooth when finished. Will it last, time will tell.
View attachment 175412
The blade, nicked, bent and very blunt.
The blade was heated in a charcoal brazier and the bends removed. Using the brazier The edge was tempered to a light blue shade. The silver line is not paint. But the cutting edge, achieved with a classic scythe stone.
Finished. Paint is left overs from my vice. The handle rivet back on and the wood soaked in linseed oil and wax. That will take a few days to dry and hardened, so it can polished smooth. A smooth handle is important to prevent blisters.
@Tinbasherdan See Comrade.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Something is odd today.
I get timed out.
Last one.
Long handle tree pruner.
This will be finished when the paint and wood finish has fully hardened.
No I don't need an old one. I have a modern one, what I know will be better in use. But on a NO Power Tool Day" I had chosen to have fun.
New wooden shaft, cut down, planed and finished by hand. Mr Robin and Mr and Mrs Blackbird were having a filed day collecting the wood shaving for their nests.
The metal work finished and cleaned by hand, then boiled in citric acid, to get to the rust I could not get to. The Lever(RHS) is new. The old one was cracked and it snapped when it was straightened. Hand cut, hand filled from scrap bar.
Quick tip when dressing a edge.
Fix the blade to a bit off wood, clamp the wood in a vice so when you use a stone on it you keep the stone flat and the blade is at the right angle. It is easier to hold a stone flat than holding a blade at the right angle constantly.
The metal finished. But very soft. Yes I over sprayed the cutting edge.
I now have a choice, fix with nut and bolts, as a repair was done. Or rivets as per original design.
If I can get rivets it will be original, if not nit and bolts.
I get timed out.
Last one.
Long handle tree pruner.
This will be finished when the paint and wood finish has fully hardened.
No I don't need an old one. I have a modern one, what I know will be better in use. But on a NO Power Tool Day" I had chosen to have fun.
New wooden shaft, cut down, planed and finished by hand. Mr Robin and Mr and Mrs Blackbird were having a filed day collecting the wood shaving for their nests.
The metal work finished and cleaned by hand, then boiled in citric acid, to get to the rust I could not get to. The Lever(RHS) is new. The old one was cracked and it snapped when it was straightened. Hand cut, hand filled from scrap bar.
Quick tip when dressing a edge.
Fix the blade to a bit off wood, clamp the wood in a vice so when you use a stone on it you keep the stone flat and the blade is at the right angle. It is easier to hold a stone flat than holding a blade at the right angle constantly.
The metal finished. But very soft. Yes I over sprayed the cutting edge.
I now have a choice, fix with nut and bolts, as a repair was done. Or rivets as per original design.
If I can get rivets it will be original, if not nit and bolts.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Rivets are out at this current stage of it's new life.
My local supplier does not have any and not going trawling the net today.
I am planning on a food day.
So.
Nut and bolt it was, the only new bits added.
Working end.
Wax is used as a lub.
New build from old, the metal work was painted blue as the old shaft was stained blue.
Beside I had some blue paint and not any blue wood stain.
My local supplier does not have any and not going trawling the net today.
I am planning on a food day.
So.
Nut and bolt it was, the only new bits added.
Working end.
Wax is used as a lub.
New build from old, the metal work was painted blue as the old shaft was stained blue.
Beside I had some blue paint and not any blue wood stain.
DennisCA
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I made a mess. Damn useless chuck won't come off, even tried the impact driver trick. I'm disassembling it so I can get a better grip on the chuck and not injure the gearbox and also apply some heat on the thread.
I got stopped by lack of a suitable lock ring plier though, but I will get one. Put the gear box back together so I don't forget how, though the photos above help to reassemble.
From what I can tell online there is a 1/2x20 UNF thread inside. Yet when I asked makita service if a Röhm chuck would fit my makita they said no. And it has that thread type.
I got stopped by lack of a suitable lock ring plier though, but I will get one. Put the gear box back together so I don't forget how, though the photos above help to reassemble.
From what I can tell online there is a 1/2x20 UNF thread inside. Yet when I asked makita service if a Röhm chuck would fit my makita they said no. And it has that thread type.
mpats
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I made a mess. Damn useless chuck won't come off, even tried the impact driver trick. I'm disassembling it so I can get a better grip on the chuck and not injure the gearbox and also apply some heat on the thread.
I got stopped by lack of a suitable lock ring plier though, but I will get one. Put the gear box back together so I don't forget how, though the photos above help to reassemble.
From what I can tell online there is a 1/2x20 UNF thread inside. Yet when I asked makita service if a Röhm chuck would fit my makita they said no. And it has that thread type.
When I removed the chuck from my makita battery drill it was a case of put an allen key, big one, in the chuck and hit it with a dead blow hammer a few times. It unscrewed nicely. Then any 1/2x20 UNF chuck should fit but you could see what it looks like when you get it off.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Few weeks ago I rescued and brought back to life this old lather gouge.
Nit had a chance to use it in anger, but work today took me to a site were they do "Pole Lathe" work.
Knowing I would be there at least 3 hours it went for a jolly.
I was allowed to play.
The gouge was not as good as I hoped. But it was explained that I had done a good job putting an edge on it and for a power lathe it would be OK.
But on a Pole lathe they have a different angle on them.
Fun work and a experience.
The faces were "Burnt" on using this.
Nit had a chance to use it in anger, but work today took me to a site were they do "Pole Lathe" work.
Knowing I would be there at least 3 hours it went for a jolly.
I was allowed to play.
The gouge was not as good as I hoped. But it was explained that I had done a good job putting an edge on it and for a power lathe it would be OK.
But on a Pole lathe they have a different angle on them.
Fun work and a experience.
The faces were "Burnt" on using this.
DennisCA
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The allen key trick was my first attempt. I've also tried using an impact driver. I've really, really beaten on this thing. I understand it's lock tighted and torqued to heck. So I got heat left as a solution but I want it out of the drill for that too so I don't damage the rest of it
mpats
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Oh dear, mine came off pretty reasonably after about 4 hits.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Here is a good example why Yellow Ardvarks should not be left alone in a wood workshop, with free coffee.
Here we can see the results of this.
The site I was working at is a good place.
They are a traditional workshop or craft place. They work along side local charity for people with special needs.
I hope my sall bits help others and give people ideas.
Here we can see the results of this.
The site I was working at is a good place.
They are a traditional workshop or craft place. They work along side local charity for people with special needs.
I hope my sall bits help others and give people ideas.
Cobbler
Codger bodger
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Is there a locking screw down inside the chuck?
Melvyn Best
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Yes and a wood branch and string to rotate the work.
It cuts in one direction and you pull the tool back.
You hold the tool under the arm pit and use your body to move the tool to and from work peace.
As you treadle the foot board.
Easy to master the foot and body, harder to get the tool movement into sync.
