Stuff you have made today

[Pete.]

Did a bit of work on my gear hobber.

First was a belt guard for the cutting oil pump. This is driven off the main motor and is a gear pump that sends oil from the reservoir up to the hob which then drains back down from the tray into the reservoir. It's about 60 or 70 years old and tends to leak a bit which causes the belt to fire oil all over the floor/your legs and feet. I got fed up with this so I bashed out a rough and ready belt guard from some scrap ally sheet. Oil now drips into the tin instead of flinging all over the floor.

Next was a pressure relief valve for the oil pump. There's a tap at the end of the pipe but you can't turn it off because the pressure goes though the roof and stretches the bolts holding the pump together, and stalls the motor. I stuck a tee in the oil line and knocked up a ball-and-spring relief valve which just dumps into the tray. Now you can adjust the oil flow (or turn it off completely) and it never bothers the pump.

Finally I made an over-sized cutter guard because the original didn't quite fit over the largest of the hobs. I just knocked it up from a bit of old stainless tube, welded a stub on it for the cutting fluid feed then drilled through the feed tube to make a port for the oil. It works great but I got the feed hole very slightly low. Doesn't matter because the larger hobs tend to also be longer so the oil gets to where it's supposed to be as you can see in the pic. Here I'm cutting a 16DP gear for someone's lathe gearbox.

 

[God mode restorations]

Did a bit of work on my gear hobber.

First was a belt guard for the cutting oil pump. This is driven off the main motor and is a gear pump that sends oil from the reservoir up to the hob which then drains back down from the tray into the reservoir. It's about 60 or 70 years old and tends to leak a bit which causes the belt to fire oil all over the floor/your legs and feet. I got fed up with this so I bashed out a rough and ready belt guard from some scrap ally sheet. Oil now drips into the tin instead of flinging all over the floor.

View attachment 176411

Next was a pressure relief valve for the oil pump. There's a tap at the end of the pipe but you can't turn it off because the pressure goes though the roof and stretches the bolts holding the pump together, and stalls the motor. I stuck a tee in the oil line and knocked up a ball-and-spring relief valve which just dumps into the tray. Now you can adjust the oil flow (or turn it off completely) and it never bothers the pump.

View attachment 176414

Finally I made an over-sized cutter guard because the original didn't quite fit over the largest of the hobs. I just knocked it up from a bit of old stainless tube, welded a stub on it for the cutting fluid feed then drilled through the feed tube to make a port for the oil. It works great but I got the feed hole very slightly low. Doesn't matter because the larger hobs tend to also be longer so the oil gets to where it's supposed to be as you can see in the pic. Here I'm cutting a 16DP gear for someone's lathe gearbox.

View attachment 176415

That is a fantastic machine and a joy to watch.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

That’s an old Community Playthings tricycle (sounds like the tuck is as well) it probably cost the best part of £300 new.
Go on their website if you fancy have a heart attack at the prices of nursery equipment.

I did when I got mine for a few quid.
Scary prices.
No bearings inside just crappy plastic bushings.

One day il get around to fitting some proper bearings in it.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Got my garage back.
Really good sort out. Not finished yet but at least I can work in there again

As I could reach my mill and the piles of junk had been cleared off it I thought id make this fit my lathe.
In the vice and a skim off the top and both sides to suit my slot.
Chuck the t bolt in a collet and turn the end down to suit inc clearance as the bolts slightly too large for the slot.

Will only function up to the rack unfortunately.
Going to have to file the pin off.
Its not critical. In fact its a pita . Its an end stop for the auto feed stop. With collets in ive got loads of room past that point.

Thanks again @jordhandson

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

And finally got around to securing the fly press and Parkinson vice.

Coach bolts worked well for the flypress. Ground four flats on them and a perfect fit for the square holes.

Now to convert some of the tooling I have to fit it.

 

[jinjahbiscuit]

You are an inspiration! I have to clear out my garage and shed when I get home. I can't wait!

 

[wyn]

Made a couple of root ball hooks this morning...mainly bending stuff.

Welded a few bits of scrap to make a jig and used some left over 16mm round railing bits.

Bent the handle most of the way round with the help of my leaky burning lamp.

Turn it over and finish the handle bit

Reposition it and Pull it round a bit more. cut the overlap off, hammer it flat and weld.

Bent the hook bit round a 6" bar and cut an angle on the end.

 

[pressbrake1]

Did a bit of work on my gear hobber.

First was a belt guard for the cutting oil pump. This is driven off the main motor and is a gear pump that sends oil from the reservoir up to the hob which then drains back down from the tray into the reservoir. It's about 60 or 70 years old and tends to leak a bit which causes the belt to fire oil all over the floor/your legs and feet. I got fed up with this so I bashed out a rough and ready belt guard from some scrap ally sheet. Oil now drips into the tin instead of flinging all over the floor.

View attachment 176411

Next was a pressure relief valve for the oil pump. There's a tap at the end of the pipe but you can't turn it off because the pressure goes though the roof and stretches the bolts holding the pump together, and stalls the motor. I stuck a tee in the oil line and knocked up a ball-and-spring relief valve which just dumps into the tray. Now you can adjust the oil flow (or turn it off completely) and it never bothers the pump.

View attachment 176414

Finally I made an over-sized cutter guard because the original didn't quite fit over the largest of the hobs. I just knocked it up from a bit of old stainless tube, welded a stub on it for the cutting fluid feed then drilled through the feed tube to make a port for the oil. It works great but I got the feed hole very slightly low. Doesn't matter because the larger hobs tend to also be longer so the oil gets to where it's supposed to be as you can see in the pic. Here I'm cutting a 16DP gear for someone's lathe gearbox.

View attachment 176415

Can you cut 12dp
Think pressure angle is 20deg

 

[Pete.]

Can you cut 12dp
Think pressure angle is 20deg

12dp is the coarsest tooth I can cut up to about 52 teeth but it's right at the limit of the machine's working envelope. I have one 12dp cutter I'll check the PA of it.

 

[Jlg]

Not strictly made today, but tested the mounting dimensions. Pretty happy with how they've turned out.

Can I have the file for that

 

[Maker]

Did a bit of work on my gear hobber.

First was a belt guard for the cutting oil pump. This is driven off the main motor and is a gear pump that sends oil from the reservoir up to the hob which then drains back down from the tray into the reservoir. It's about 60 or 70 years old and tends to leak a bit which causes the belt to fire oil all over the floor/your legs and feet. I got fed up with this so I bashed out a rough and ready belt guard from some scrap ally sheet. Oil now drips into the tin instead of flinging all over the floor.

View attachment 176411

Next was a pressure relief valve for the oil pump. There's a tap at the end of the pipe but you can't turn it off because the pressure goes though the roof and stretches the bolts holding the pump together, and stalls the motor. I stuck a tee in the oil line and knocked up a ball-and-spring relief valve which just dumps into the tray. Now you can adjust the oil flow (or turn it off completely) and it never bothers the pump.

View attachment 176414

Finally I made an over-sized cutter guard because the original didn't quite fit over the largest of the hobs. I just knocked it up from a bit of old stainless tube, welded a stub on it for the cutting fluid feed then drilled through the feed tube to make a port for the oil. It works great but I got the feed hole very slightly low. Doesn't matter because the larger hobs tend to also be longer so the oil gets to where it's supposed to be as you can see in the pic. Here I'm cutting a 16DP gear for someone's lathe gearbox.

View attachment 176415

Have you ever given us a complete look at this gear hobber? I seem to remember a short video a year or so ago but I'd love to see a longer post with more pictures explaining how it works, etc. It's very pretty.

 

[Hood]

Today I made a load of rollers, 9 of one size, 2 of another size and another 2 both different sizes again.
I hate Nylon, it is horrible stuff to turn as can be seen in the video. The two smaller black rollers are Acetal and it is lovely to turn. Still have to drill and bore all of them except the Acetal ones.

 

[Pete.]

Have you ever given us a complete look at this gear hobber? I seem to remember a short video a year or so ago but I'd love to see a longer post with more pictures explaining how it works, etc. It's very pretty.

I could do a write-up but I haven't time to do it properly so maybe later in the year.

I had to do one more little job on it last night. The bolt that holds the guard on was screwed into a shallow hole in the cast iron head unit. The hole was cracked sometime in the past and eventually gave up the ghost. I had to set the head up in my mill and plunge a 16mm slot drill into it, then turned a slug of steel 16mm diameter 5mm long with a 6mm stub on it, cut a thread in the stub then loctited it into the hole. Now it's very secure and I also found a plastic thumb screw to prevent anyone using a spanner on it and breaking it again.

 

[indy4x]

@Hood that mess looks familiar, made some 2" spring spacers many years ago on a little Boxford and the stringy nylon coming off was a complete PITA

 

[Hood]

@Hood that mess looks familiar, made some 2" spring spacers many years ago on a little Boxford and the stringy nylon coming off was a complete PITA

I hate it, not quite so bad on the CNC but even on that it is a pain. Before I had the hydraulic chuck on the CNC I used to have to grip the nylon the full depth of the jaws to stop it being pulled out and even then it happened a couple of times.

 

[Tinbasherdan]

View attachment 176235 View attachment 176236 2 happy cyclists later.

You wait till I’m a few beers in and need some transport to the pub I’ll have Luna shackled up to the front and I’ll be away

 

[Hood]

Today I made some caps for the stainless Greenie Poles I have made.

They are Acetal and although it makes a mess it is no bother to turn and very easy to clean up as you can just use a vacuum cleaner, unlike the mess nylon makes.

Also had to make a new roller for a different hanging block, never do one for months then all of a sudden you get loads to do.

Oh and BTW that is not my welding, it is a block made by Seawinch I think.


Got the 9 rollers I did yesterday parted, drilled and bored for bearings and ready to go.

 

[fizzy]

Small world - we ship pallets for Seawinch!

I used to turn Nylon dry - does the coolant help or hinder?

 

[Hood]

Small world - we ship pallets for Seawinch!

I used to turn Nylon dry - does the coolant help or hinder?

Definitely helps as Nylon will easily melt on drills or even lathe tools without coolant if you are not careful.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

They are Acetal and although it makes a mess it is no bother to turn and very easy to clean up

You could sell those turnings to Wayne Rooney......