- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,627
- Location
- Going Away.
This nice old Railway lantern.
Was in good condition, lightly restored and complete.
Didn't need my to repair and get it back to use. Just a good clean with Meths. to remove some sort of wax finish on.
The wick holder has 2 wicks fitted, But only the longer and thinner one is adjustable. It does work and adjust in a smooth manner.
It is made by:
Lamp Manufacturing & Railway supplies Ltd.
London.
I think this lantern dates from about 1840.
Fuelling with modern lamp oil (thinner than the old stuff) showed a small weep on the bottom copper plate. But a old copper soldering iron was used to repair it with some plumbers solder.
I know I could of used a modern Iron and modern solder, but were is the fun in that?
I had to old tools they may of used in the past.
Besides it was fun.
Finished and working.
Now to find space to show it off.
Jlg
Member
- Messages
- 2,575
- Location
- Cumbria
The stl would do and I'll print myself a set or two
Sure thing dan, I bought that ,paid silly money as it was the first roller I ever used,kindly lent to me by another Smith,so when he retired I jumped at the chance,I assumed it’s a Tyring roller from a wheelwright I also have a static one at the shop.,That’s some ring roller, that, I may we’ll have a job for it next time I’m passing if I may
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
You'll be rivalling Blackpool of an evening if you get all these lamps going at the same time.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,627
- Location
- Going Away.
A Good friend of mine has a 1960's Russian Cold war 4 cylinder diesel engine. It is one of those small engines every Army seamed to have back then, used for lots of dull mundane job. This one came from a "Primer Mover" as a Donkey engine.
To set up the static timing you need to a plug what is the 2 pin type. The tool in the tool kit should do it. But some one one had misplaced the rubber seal and used some hard gasket material.
So I was called din to make a more meaty version.
The dowels are 10mm diameter, as are the holes.
I wanted a snug fit.
The bar was heated until spit instantly boiled off. The pins were frozen using a decent amount of "Dry ice"
Then dropped into the holes and we went for another coffee.
When we came back they were well fitted. So a blob of weld on the back and my friend left.
I know it worked, he called me to tell me.
Did he invite me over to help etc NO.
What a git.
To set up the static timing you need to a plug what is the 2 pin type. The tool in the tool kit should do it. But some one one had misplaced the rubber seal and used some hard gasket material.
So I was called din to make a more meaty version.
The dowels are 10mm diameter, as are the holes.
I wanted a snug fit.
The bar was heated until spit instantly boiled off. The pins were frozen using a decent amount of "Dry ice"
Then dropped into the holes and we went for another coffee.
When we came back they were well fitted. So a blob of weld on the back and my friend left.
I know it worked, he called me to tell me.
Did he invite me over to help etc NO.
What a git.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Actually did this the other day when I was boring out the bearing holes in the rollers I made. As I had a batch of rollers to do I decided to bore them on the CNC, often I just do them on the manual as it is usually just one or two.
So to hold them secure on the CNC I bored some soft jaws out, the great thing about CNC is you can easily profile so the soft jaws were profiled to the shape of the rollers thus making the grip very strong but also not marking the Nylon of the rollers.
Pic here of the soft jaws after boring.
A pic of them gripping a roller, as can be seen there is no chance of them coming out when clamped.
So to hold them secure on the CNC I bored some soft jaws out, the great thing about CNC is you can easily profile so the soft jaws were profiled to the shape of the rollers thus making the grip very strong but also not marking the Nylon of the rollers.
Pic here of the soft jaws after boring.
A pic of them gripping a roller, as can be seen there is no chance of them coming out when clamped.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 5,744
- Location
- Ireland
That's better. No more Night Terrors. I'll be one....
Pair of Fireball Quantums that originally had 7" single-filament H1 spots, replaced with Hella 7" H4s, running some decent 20W braid-cooled LEDs that combine with the Hellas to produce a really nice beam pattern with no splash or dazzle. The headlight is now a Cibie H4 with the same treatment.
And all within the charging capacity of the wheezy old stator. Modern tech is wonderful. This is exactly the way I wanted it 25 years ago, but the electrics wouldn't have coped.
Pair of Fireball Quantums that originally had 7" single-filament H1 spots, replaced with Hella 7" H4s, running some decent 20W braid-cooled LEDs that combine with the Hellas to produce a really nice beam pattern with no splash or dazzle. The headlight is now a Cibie H4 with the same treatment.
And all within the charging capacity of the wheezy old stator. Modern tech is wonderful. This is exactly the way I wanted it 25 years ago, but the electrics wouldn't have coped.
Prop for a video (it is a tv safe video!) 12mm bar and 10mm plate, already had the chain and some 50mm flat bar for the shackle. It doesn’t bolt down just made to look like it’s bolted to the floor.
Needed to give the new steel some age
Finished
Needed to give the new steel some age
Finished
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Started on another batch of these.
They are probe housings I do every now and then for an NDT company.
I just ordered the stainless for them today so only managed to make the Acetal part.
First op on the lathe then into the Chiron then finally the manual lathe to bore and tap the end.
They are probe housings I do every now and then for an NDT company.
I just ordered the stainless for them today so only managed to make the Acetal part.
First op on the lathe then into the Chiron then finally the manual lathe to bore and tap the end.
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
To quote a disgraced Australian currently a guest of Her Majesty..."Can you tell what it is yet?"
A little progress with the bench press, but found it difficult to concentrate so stopped before I made any mistakes.
A little progress with the bench press, but found it difficult to concentrate so stopped before I made any mistakes.
eLuSiVeMiTe
Member
- Messages
- 16,441
- Location
- ......
A not very productive hour.
Tranny in the garage has given up. There's two in the lock up and one left on site today.
Hacksaw to the ready and two cuts made. Cleaned em up on the mill. Then clamped the two parts and one original foot in the vice and drilled in one hit.
Il mill some steps in the top tomorrow evening and get the mounting holes transferred over. Bit late now.
Feet for a small 3p motor. Mounts don't line up with my scroll saw base and thankfully this motor has removable feet.
Tranny in the garage has given up. There's two in the lock up and one left on site today.
Hacksaw to the ready and two cuts made. Cleaned em up on the mill. Then clamped the two parts and one original foot in the vice and drilled in one hit.
Il mill some steps in the top tomorrow evening and get the mounting holes transferred over. Bit late now.
Feet for a small 3p motor. Mounts don't line up with my scroll saw base and thankfully this motor has removable feet.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Something you just can’t buy in the shops over here - mine tastes much better anyway
Can’t get much more Derbyshire than a Bakewell tart. Little Victorinox knife used to cut it - cost me just $7 new! Swiss made, can’t beat that.
Can’t get much more Derbyshire than a Bakewell tart. Little Victorinox knife used to cut it - cost me just $7 new! Swiss made, can’t beat that.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Do you make gears for lathes? I’m after a 33 tooth wheel for the Bantam but I can’t find one anywhere.
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,385
- Location
- Kent, UK
Those are 33 and 34 teeth actually. They are for cutting metric threads on a Myford lathe with gearbox.
Are yours round hole or spline drive? I can cut the gear no problem at all but I don't have any spline cutters.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,681
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Spline, I think eight for the Bantam but could be six...
Could it be possible to order a larger size one from rdg and you cut it down?
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,385
- Location
- Kent, UK
Spline, I think eight for the Bantam but could be six...
Could it be possible to order a larger size one from rdg and you cut it down?
Sure, so long as they aren't hardened. Needs to be 38 teeth or better to do that.
