Hasn't been one there before, but I may well put a handrail by the steps.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
selectedgrub
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- New Zealand
Boring stuff.
Johnnybravo
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- Northiam
A former for a vacuum forming machine. Basically 56mm square at the top,with 12,4 degree angled sides,with corner radii starting at 0,1mm and increasing to 4,6mm at the base,70mm down. Then ,if that wasn’t enough fun,a 8mm radius around the top.Plate at the bottom screwed on to hold it whilst machining
8ob
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- Nescient in the vale
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- 13,412
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- England
A quick home made tool today... needed to pull 4 of these holes in some 2mm stainless sheet, right in the corner of some returns.
Underside supported by a geka die.
Final outside size 1" to allow a pipe fitting to be welded on if required.
Ideally would have liked the sides of the hole formed round a bit more, but limited by what you can sensibly achieve with a bit of studding and a couple of nuts.
Underside supported by a geka die.
Final outside size 1" to allow a pipe fitting to be welded on if required.
Ideally would have liked the sides of the hole formed round a bit more, but limited by what you can sensibly achieve with a bit of studding and a couple of nuts.
AndersK
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Funny, I did the same yesterday, but in aluminum also with home made tool.
Needed to install counter sunk riv nuts but not enough material thickness to machine.
I have a chunk of steel with counter sunk holes of various sizes to do this. Either in a press or tapped holes.
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Ordinarily I'd do them in a press, but it's an after thought, it's now on part of a 12metre long machine weighing about 5 tonnes.
I recently got a small motorcycle scissor lift so that when I lift the chassis of my triumph herald under the bodyshell (which is on chassis stands)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352371734227
it needed a few tweaks to be suitable for my purposes. first of all is that its a bit wobbly as the channel that the rollers run is 3mm larger than the rollers, so skimmed the nylon rollers to make them round
then you find that the ends the sicssor sections are too long
so they need to be trimmed (standard one is at the bottom)
then I needed to take up the slack in the "channel" section so plug welded some 5mm thick strips of steel in place. I decided to use my TIG rather than MIG welder for this
for me I think it will be better to have the screw that operates the lift at the bottom but that meant that a section needed to be removed from the trolley section for clearance for the head of the screw, so welded a plate onto the trolley part.
and then a hole as drilled in it so that it wasnt weakened. (this also shows how the wheels are bolted on)
and showing it assembled (with the steel strips inside the channel) and the lift bolted to the trolley
and closed it is 13 cm high
and 40cm high when opened.
and is stable and not wobbly compared to the standard lift.....and when you look back and admire your work you realise that you've just made a height adjustable seat
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352371734227
it needed a few tweaks to be suitable for my purposes. first of all is that its a bit wobbly as the channel that the rollers run is 3mm larger than the rollers, so skimmed the nylon rollers to make them round
then you find that the ends the sicssor sections are too long
so they need to be trimmed (standard one is at the bottom)
then I needed to take up the slack in the "channel" section so plug welded some 5mm thick strips of steel in place. I decided to use my TIG rather than MIG welder for this
for me I think it will be better to have the screw that operates the lift at the bottom but that meant that a section needed to be removed from the trolley section for clearance for the head of the screw, so welded a plate onto the trolley part.
and then a hole as drilled in it so that it wasnt weakened. (this also shows how the wheels are bolted on)
and showing it assembled (with the steel strips inside the channel) and the lift bolted to the trolley
and closed it is 13 cm high
and 40cm high when opened.
and is stable and not wobbly compared to the standard lift.....and when you look back and admire your work you realise that you've just made a height adjustable seat
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
Makes life easy.
That's the kitchen at 11.30.
Here's daughters bedroom getting close to final sanding and paint.
2/3 finished. That was my weekend, back to work.
Definitely looks easier than getting up a set of steps with a tea towel on your head
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,920
- Location
- France, Brittany.
Yep it's a life changing moment, as opposed to me up a step ladder and Wifie trying to wedge props under boards.
100 euros, wish I'd bought one a month ago. I didn't buy it I borrowed it off my boss. Even better.
You can single handedly get a std board on the ceiling without stress or sweat. Winner, never seen one before Mon eve.
100 euros, wish I'd bought one a month ago. I didn't buy it I borrowed it off my boss. Even better.
You can single handedly get a std board on the ceiling without stress or sweat. Winner, never seen one before Mon eve.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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- ......
Great bits of kit.
Next big tacking job il grab one.
Not worth it for 4 ceiling boards on little jobs though.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
Got a bit of time today to do some more to the lathes turret drive.
Bored and tapped and fitted the components then welded them together.
Bored out the small pulley for the motor.
Got that fitted and also made the Acetal tensioner wheel.
Then made a start to the prox sensor trigger. I decided just to bore all 4 holes in each row even though I only need some of them bored.
Got it into the lathe and bored out the centre to 20mm to slide on the shaft. Hopefully tomorrow I will get a chance to get the trigger pins screwed in and machined to height.
Bored and tapped and fitted the components then welded them together.
Bored out the small pulley for the motor.
Got that fitted and also made the Acetal tensioner wheel.
Then made a start to the prox sensor trigger. I decided just to bore all 4 holes in each row even though I only need some of them bored.
Got it into the lathe and bored out the centre to 20mm to slide on the shaft. Hopefully tomorrow I will get a chance to get the trigger pins screwed in and machined to height.
selectedgrub
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- New Zealand
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I made my first roll cage.
Well sort of.
It's something I've been meaning to do for yonks and I got fed up having to prop my air fed filters when I was doing a bit of spraying out of the workshop.
It's heavy enough not to pull over and robust enough to protect the filters and regulators if I do.
I still need to make a couple of brackets so I can hang it on the wall where it will normally live.
Well sort of.
It's something I've been meaning to do for yonks and I got fed up having to prop my air fed filters when I was doing a bit of spraying out of the workshop.
It's heavy enough not to pull over and robust enough to protect the filters and regulators if I do.
I still need to make a couple of brackets so I can hang it on the wall where it will normally live.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Screwed some bolts into the prox sensor trigger.
Chopped them to rough size with the grinder and then put into the lathe ready for turning.
All done.
Wire brushed to deburr and then fitted onto the shaft, also fitted and adjusted the prox switches.
Tested them out and they are working fine although I may have been better making the pins 6mm dia rather than 8mm, time will tell.
Tomorrow I hope to get the prox switches wired, motor power and encoder cables cut and soldered into new plugs then with a bit of luck I can try out with the small drive I currently have in. If the drive is too small I will have to rob one from the Beaver mill until a suitable one comes up on eBay.
Chopped them to rough size with the grinder and then put into the lathe ready for turning.
All done.
Wire brushed to deburr and then fitted onto the shaft, also fitted and adjusted the prox switches.
Tested them out and they are working fine although I may have been better making the pins 6mm dia rather than 8mm, time will tell.
Tomorrow I hope to get the prox switches wired, motor power and encoder cables cut and soldered into new plugs then with a bit of luck I can try out with the small drive I currently have in. If the drive is too small I will have to rob one from the Beaver mill until a suitable one comes up on eBay.
