jinjahbiscuit
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Daft question, but what is it?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Daft question, but what is it?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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selectedgrub
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Basically finished.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Not by me, but I supplied the workshop equipment, safety gear and my time.
We have 2 MIS members who want to take on more projects, both live in a "Home."
We plan to see if we can have a MIs outlet there.
With that in mind, after we did the car boot this morning, to give them an idea what is a Car boot, it was back to my place to play with some tools.
Patent Number Chain breaker.
As I got it.
Using a hot air paint stripper, they managed to free the parts. We didn't punch the pins holding the side arms.
Then using wire wool and elbow grease, we got it to this state.
A nice finish. The image does not really show how the body is smooth. You can just make out the 2 pins holding the arms in place.
Old Tap seat cutter.
Bit more hand tool use, more brain cell use on how to dismantle to separate parts.
Looks rusty, in fact it was some form of oil, metal swarf and that had rusted.
This meant nothing moved.
You can see the thick oil type substance.
So more PPE and "meths" to remove the oil and rubbish.
The seat cutter was nicked on a 2 blades. So a slip stone was used.
The edges are usable, but it was their first time dressing a cutting edge.
Wire wool and wax.
Usable tool?
Not really. Not on modern taps. But we have a few old taps in the MIS scrap pile. Will be another class to re-visit old skills.
2 very happy people. One happy TYA. It was a good few hours. But it shows how old stuff can be "restored," it now has a bit more value for money, if or when I sell them on.
We have 2 MIS members who want to take on more projects, both live in a "Home."
We plan to see if we can have a MIs outlet there.
With that in mind, after we did the car boot this morning, to give them an idea what is a Car boot, it was back to my place to play with some tools.
Patent Number Chain breaker.
As I got it.
Using a hot air paint stripper, they managed to free the parts. We didn't punch the pins holding the side arms.
Then using wire wool and elbow grease, we got it to this state.
A nice finish. The image does not really show how the body is smooth. You can just make out the 2 pins holding the arms in place.
Old Tap seat cutter.
Bit more hand tool use, more brain cell use on how to dismantle to separate parts.
Looks rusty, in fact it was some form of oil, metal swarf and that had rusted.
This meant nothing moved.
You can see the thick oil type substance.
So more PPE and "meths" to remove the oil and rubbish.
The seat cutter was nicked on a 2 blades. So a slip stone was used.
The edges are usable, but it was their first time dressing a cutting edge.
Wire wool and wax.
Usable tool?
Not really. Not on modern taps. But we have a few old taps in the MIS scrap pile. Will be another class to re-visit old skills.
2 very happy people. One happy TYA. It was a good few hours. But it shows how old stuff can be "restored," it now has a bit more value for money, if or when I sell them on.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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What brought the above on was this old paraffin Blow torch.
They both recall their dads using them to strip paint.
Yesterday they saw me with it at MIS, stripping it down.
Striped down, back at my place. That is were I could use the polishing set up.
In an hour I was back at MIS with it polished up. That led on to the discussion if they could do something like this.
Of course they can. But I need to be competent they can do it safely.
This shuttle, Friday I was at a meeting and this came up in a random discussion. The lady who I was talking to remarked that her Mum walked in a Local Mill. @Wozzaaah @puffernutter You will know as Salter Mill in the Shires (Boswell now)
So after the meeting I was asked to show it to her. She was very happy to see one, not the ones she knew as a loom worker, wrong size.
But she showed me how to strip it down, with nothing more than a meat skewer. So we did.
Polished up with a tin of wax.
The vertical marks you see were describe as "Clatter marks" from were the shuttle would hit the metal gate, if it was shot to fast.
Not a local history item. But a local knowledge history item
They both recall their dads using them to strip paint.
Yesterday they saw me with it at MIS, stripping it down.
Striped down, back at my place. That is were I could use the polishing set up.
In an hour I was back at MIS with it polished up. That led on to the discussion if they could do something like this.
Of course they can. But I need to be competent they can do it safely.
This shuttle, Friday I was at a meeting and this came up in a random discussion. The lady who I was talking to remarked that her Mum walked in a Local Mill. @Wozzaaah @puffernutter You will know as Salter Mill in the Shires (Boswell now)
So after the meeting I was asked to show it to her. She was very happy to see one, not the ones she knew as a loom worker, wrong size.
But she showed me how to strip it down, with nothing more than a meat skewer. So we did.
Polished up with a tin of wax.
The vertical marks you see were describe as "Clatter marks" from were the shuttle would hit the metal gate, if it was shot to fast.
Not a local history item. But a local knowledge history item
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Oh yes the paraffin torch does work.
One of my mates has a workshop dust filter and I thought I could make something just as good a lot cheaper. His was something like £300 and mine is a £40 fan off Ebay and a £15 vacuum cleaner filter from screwfix 
hepa filters are also available for even better filtration
Works a treat for controlling the dust when pulling ceilings down
hepa filters are also available for even better filtrationWorks a treat for controlling the dust when pulling ceilings down
One of my mates has a workshop dust filter and I thought I could make something just as good a lot cheaper. His was something like £300 and mine is a £40 fan off Ebay and a £15 vacuum cleaner filter from screwfix
Works a treat for controlling the dust when pulling ceilings down
View attachment 189757
Those work quite well I have one in the garage hooked up to a plug in thermostat that can be used if it’s too hot or cold mine is set to remove the heat while doors are closed.
Moose McAlpine
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One of my mates has a workshop dust filter and I thought I could make something just as good a lot cheaper. His was something like £300 and mine is a £40 fan off Ebay and a £15 vacuum cleaner filter from screwfix
Works a treat for controlling the dust when pulling ceilings down
View attachment 189757
Was looking at those in the Screwfix cataloge the other day to build a cheap welding fume extractor.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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My 20+ years old mitre saw finally stopped working, the brush holders had melted and seized the brushes. I carved the holders back down and dug the old brush out but didnt have one the right size to replace it with, so...
Superglued two small ones together. I'll order the right size but I want to use it today, should be okay as long as it doesn't get too hot. 
Superglued two small ones together.
I'll order the right size but I want to use it today, should be okay as long as it doesn't get too hot. 
Dcal
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Today (well yesterday) I made a simple job a lot more complicated for very little gain.
I finally got around to making some storage for my tig welding rods.
I started making it out of 32mm solvent weld pipe and wanted to just solvent weld a bung on the bottom and have a push fit on the top. Air tight would be nice.
Couple of issues-
I can't find solvent weld bungs, from what I can find you need a straight coupler and an access plug.
I can get push fits but they don't fit the solvent weld pipe (both nominally 32mm?) and the push fits don't solvent weld (I've just found out) and anyway they looked too bulky for my liking.
Also the bungs don't leave enough rod sticking out so you can easily pick one out while wearing welding gloves.
I had a search of the fittings I had and found 40mm push-fit internal bungs are a nice fit in a 32mm solvent weld pipe.
I also found that I could machine out half of a 32mm push fit coupling to fit 32mm solvent weld pipe.
That didn't help much as the push fits still need a coupler and a bung so back to square one.
I'm a believer in the old adage "when you have a hammer everything is a nail, when you have a welder everything is what ever you want it to be" so as I have a very underused plastic welder I decided to cap the ends of some 32mm push-fit pipe and mod some couplers to accept 32mm solvent weld pipe.
I cut up some pipe to make plastic welding rods and used a hole saw to make end caps
End caps were anything but flat and the first attempts to weld them in didn't go well so I made a jig to hold them flat while I got them welded which consisted of a bit of round bar and a F clamp.
Worked quite well and quick enough to do when set up.
If I had rods the same width over their length you could probably make a neater weld, but it will do.
A quick play on the lathe and the couplers are sorted.
I found if you leave the inside a rough cut (easy for me) the solvent weld makes a good joint by filling the groves.
The ABS solvent weld pipe welds nice as well, so might weld end caps to the bottom of them as well.
Just need another longer jig (but I do have a sash clamp that should do)
Interim results so far
I don't like the push-fit pipe (it picks up dirt too easily) but functionally it works and I can always paint it.
I need to get to Screwfix to see what other fittings I can get and rig up a pressure test to check for pin holes.
You would think I've nothing better to do but it's all good learning.
I finally got around to making some storage for my tig welding rods.
I started making it out of 32mm solvent weld pipe and wanted to just solvent weld a bung on the bottom and have a push fit on the top. Air tight would be nice.
Couple of issues-
I can't find solvent weld bungs, from what I can find you need a straight coupler and an access plug.
I can get push fits but they don't fit the solvent weld pipe (both nominally 32mm?) and the push fits don't solvent weld (I've just found out) and anyway they looked too bulky for my liking.
Also the bungs don't leave enough rod sticking out so you can easily pick one out while wearing welding gloves.
I had a search of the fittings I had and found 40mm push-fit internal bungs are a nice fit in a 32mm solvent weld pipe.
I also found that I could machine out half of a 32mm push fit coupling to fit 32mm solvent weld pipe.
That didn't help much as the push fits still need a coupler and a bung so back to square one.
I'm a believer in the old adage "when you have a hammer everything is a nail, when you have a welder everything is what ever you want it to be" so as I have a very underused plastic welder I decided to cap the ends of some 32mm push-fit pipe and mod some couplers to accept 32mm solvent weld pipe.
I cut up some pipe to make plastic welding rods and used a hole saw to make end caps
End caps were anything but flat and the first attempts to weld them in didn't go well so I made a jig to hold them flat while I got them welded which consisted of a bit of round bar and a F clamp.
Worked quite well and quick enough to do when set up.
If I had rods the same width over their length you could probably make a neater weld, but it will do.
A quick play on the lathe and the couplers are sorted.
I found if you leave the inside a rough cut (easy for me) the solvent weld makes a good joint by filling the groves.
The ABS solvent weld pipe welds nice as well, so might weld end caps to the bottom of them as well.
Just need another longer jig (but I do have a sash clamp that should do)
Interim results so far
I don't like the push-fit pipe (it picks up dirt too easily) but functionally it works and I can always paint it.
I need to get to Screwfix to see what other fittings I can get and rig up a pressure test to check for pin holes.
You would think I've nothing better to do but it's all good learning.
Dcal
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Good idea but I'm trying to keep it air tight.
I've a few more bit and bosbs and a few other ideas.
Hopefully will have version 3 (or is it 4) up later.
Dcal
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Went to Screwfix and collected some more fittings to make up the next version of my tig rod storage.
No less convoluted but easier to do and more practical I think because, in the push-fit cap version if I keep the o ring to make a proper seal it will need to be kept lubricated otherwise it's a pig to get on / off and you could contaminate the rods so -
Started with 40mm solvent weld fittings
I liked the long cap so decided to extend the access bung by turning it upside down and machining out the bung to take 40mm pipe.
I found a big hydraulic fitting the same thread which I was able to use to act as a heat-sink and stop the bung distorting during welding.
I was able to open out a 32mm bung to fit the 40mm pipe and used solvent weld to fix it in place.
Just a simple job to solvent weld the other part of the access bung to the main body and the jobs done.
I haven't decided how to seal off the bottom of the main body yet.
Easiest would be to use another modified 30mm cap but I fancy keeping the lower section flush so I can drop it into a slot on my tig welding cart if I ever get around to making one.
Final version has the hand grips turned off the caps, for no reason other than I think it looks better.
I think that's enough messing about with this non problem.
I am happy enough with the results though.
No less convoluted but easier to do and more practical I think because, in the push-fit cap version if I keep the o ring to make a proper seal it will need to be kept lubricated otherwise it's a pig to get on / off and you could contaminate the rods so -
Started with 40mm solvent weld fittings
I liked the long cap so decided to extend the access bung by turning it upside down and machining out the bung to take 40mm pipe.
I found a big hydraulic fitting the same thread which I was able to use to act as a heat-sink and stop the bung distorting during welding.
I was able to open out a 32mm bung to fit the 40mm pipe and used solvent weld to fix it in place.
Just a simple job to solvent weld the other part of the access bung to the main body and the jobs done.
I haven't decided how to seal off the bottom of the main body yet.
Easiest would be to use another modified 30mm cap but I fancy keeping the lower section flush so I can drop it into a slot on my tig welding cart if I ever get around to making one.
Final version has the hand grips turned off the caps, for no reason other than I think it looks better.
I think that's enough messing about with this non problem.
I am happy enough with the results though.
I've made a few of these for my tig rods using fittings from screwfix, they were the only place I could buy solvent weld fittings around here. I went for 40mm fittings, the 50mm was twice the price!
I used a inspection bung & a straight jointer on the top end, with the rods a few mm below the top of the tube. I always bend a hook on the cold end of a welding rod and I have a few ready before I start welding so I don't need to go fishing in a tube.
On the bottom end I turned up some wooden bungs the same as the internal diameter of the pipe, then used the solvent cement to glue them in place plus 2 self tappers for security.
selectedgrub
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Dcal
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@Turbo bet you didn't take as me making (or thinking about making) yours.
The solvent weld pipe is certainty better, harder pipe and a finish that doesn't pick up dirt as easily.
Screwfix was the only place I could get it as well, none of the local plumber merchants do it.
I'm thinking of turning ABS bungs for the bottom on mine.
I was going to make them out of discs cut out of inspection bungs.
However does anyone know of a source for ABS sheet (or another cheap product) that uses similar white ABS plastic?
About 5mm thick would be nice as it would be easier to machine a step to keep the pipe round.
I've found the ABS goes very soft during welding.
The solvent weld pipe is certainty better, harder pipe and a finish that doesn't pick up dirt as easily.
Screwfix was the only place I could get it as well, none of the local plumber merchants do it.
I'm thinking of turning ABS bungs for the bottom on mine.
I was going to make them out of discs cut out of inspection bungs.
However does anyone know of a source for ABS sheet (or another cheap product) that uses similar white ABS plastic?
About 5mm thick would be nice as it would be easier to machine a step to keep the pipe round.
I've found the ABS goes very soft during welding.
Maker
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Finished this today;
Spent pretty much all day yesterday chiseling through an enormous block of concrete to put a new post in the corner, I was so tempted a Amazon Prime myself an SDS drill. I wish I had too, doing it with a big chisel I caught the back of my hand with a hammer, it's awfully swollen and tender now. 
Spent pretty much all day yesterday chiseling through an enormous block of concrete to put a new post in the corner, I was so tempted a Amazon Prime myself an SDS drill.
I wish I had too, doing it with a big chisel I caught the back of my hand with a hammer, it's awfully swollen and tender now.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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gaz1
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Finished this today;
Spent pretty much all day yesterday chiseling through an enormous block of concrete to put a new post in the corner, I was so tempted a Amazon Prime myself an SDS drill.
looking nice there
hurts dosnt it
i hate it when people watch you when your hammering on that chisel just waiting for you to miss
nowadays if knowing im doing a concrete job easier to buy a sds at 50.00 for a 5kg and give that some stick as i do it often
