- Thread starter God mode restorations
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Small fry to what some here can make.
I adapted an old moulding plane blade to help remove 3 cutters from a pipe cutter.
The 3 pins came out, with a bit of a fight. But the 3 cutters were jammed in. I was in a bit of a rush. So my tool was knocked up to lever the 3 cutters out. They are now sitting in a tub of Jizzer, along with their 3 pins. What ever it was 'orrible.
Into the re-rusting lash up.
I adapted an old moulding plane blade to help remove 3 cutters from a pipe cutter.
The 3 pins came out, with a bit of a fight. But the 3 cutters were jammed in. I was in a bit of a rush. So my tool was knocked up to lever the 3 cutters out. They are now sitting in a tub of Jizzer, along with their 3 pins. What ever it was 'orrible.
Into the re-rusting lash up.
Memmeddu
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I do that before to use them
When I buy a new pair of gloves I renforce them
A pair of wheels and an air intake, both for my smoker. The air intake will have a rotating plate on it that will control the airflow. I screwed up the wheels and made the seat for the bearing too big. I was hoping the heat from welding it in would shrink it enough but no joy. Plan b was to stick in some brazing filler and turn the bore to the correct size but the complete wheel catches the bed of my lathe so I'm out of ideas...
Hood
I am obsessed.
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If the bore is not too much over size you could either just use a bearing fit such as the Loctite stuff or even dimple the bore multiple times around the diameter with a punch which will raise the material and seat the bearings well enough for that I would think.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Today I plasma cut another couple of discs out of the 16mm plate, as I found out yesterday I have another Gunwale roller to make.
I only had one bit left of the 50mm dia stainless so couldn't get both welded up but I did manage to get a complete weld in one go today as I started with a new rod
The rods I am currently using are Esab OK 63.30 and they are very nice. Often you can get some porosity with stainless rods right at the start of a new electrode but no such issues with these one.
I only had one bit left of the 50mm dia stainless so couldn't get both welded up but I did manage to get a complete weld in one go today as I started with a new rod
The rods I am currently using are Esab OK 63.30 and they are very nice. Often you can get some porosity with stainless rods right at the start of a new electrode but no such issues with these one.
Memmeddu
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About the weld is beautifulToday I plasma cut another couple of discs out of the 16mm plate, as I found out yesterday I have another Gunwale roller to make.
I only had one bit left of the 50mm dia stainless so couldn't get both welded up but I did manage to get a complete weld in one go today as I started with a new rod
View attachment 192670 View attachment 192671
The rods I am currently using are Esab OK 63.30 and they are very nice. Often you can get some porosity with stainless rods right at the start of a new electrode but no such issues with these one.
View attachment 192672
About porosity is it possible apply the same rule about 7018?
So start the arc into the weld zone about 20mm far from the real start and transfer the arc to the start and actually start welding?
Hood
I am obsessed.
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It all depends on what the weld is, often it is fine just to leave but if it is a critical weld then what I would normally do is strike the new rod on a scrap piece and do a 10mm or so run then move to the bit to be welded and start welding.
mrsbruce
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Today, I made a bit metal shrink, just like magic.
After a hectic week trying to finish some gun rigs, and get them posted, I finally got a few hours to play with the Warco milling machine. Unfortunately, the first thing I had to do was try to remove the arbor. After half an hour faffing about, I phoned Warco with 6 minutes to go before they shut for the day. I’ll say this, they answered the phone (foolish man).
After concurring that I had done everything he said should be done, bar hit it with a bigger hammer, I sallied forth again. Finally the begger came out, and the reason for it sticking was revealed. A thick coat of something more like superglue than the grease it was meant to be.
I attempted trammelling the thing (all knowledge via youtube vids, so I must be an expert now
). Everything spot on, thank goodness, and I finally cut some aluminium. Just a little cut, but I was impressed with myself. Nothing blew up, fell of, or made funny noises.
After a hectic week trying to finish some gun rigs, and get them posted, I finally got a few hours to play with the Warco milling machine. Unfortunately, the first thing I had to do was try to remove the arbor. After half an hour faffing about, I phoned Warco with 6 minutes to go before they shut for the day. I’ll say this, they answered the phone (foolish man).
After concurring that I had done everything he said should be done, bar hit it with a bigger hammer, I sallied forth again. Finally the begger came out, and the reason for it sticking was revealed. A thick coat of something more like superglue than the grease it was meant to be.
I attempted trammelling the thing (all knowledge via youtube vids, so I must be an expert now
). Everything spot on, thank goodness, and I finally cut some aluminium. Just a little cut, but I was impressed with myself. Nothing blew up, fell of, or made funny noises.
slim_boy_fat
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mrsbruce
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Good fun, ain't it
Along with the “Oooooooh....majik!”, I also had the thought “that wasn’t hard to do” (spot the innocent newbie). I have printed out some plans for starter projects, but am still awaiting my tnt delivery of toe clamps or whatever they are called, and a few other necessaries.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Really like those Paul.
Are they for a customer or for sale.
Parm
Respect The Sound System
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They look neat. I like them
Parm
Respect The Sound System
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123hotchef
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Think machinists call them fixture clamps.
Parm
Respect The Sound System
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