DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,012
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
My crutches won't reach the floor . 
Tinbasherdan
Bodger in chief
- Messages
- 7,242
- Location
- Bolton, England
You’re going to make a fine boulderer......We don't have a "Stuff your mum has made today" thread so I'll put it here.
View attachment 205327
A chalk bag octopus.No logic behind it being an octopus, I saw one on Etsy and thought mum could crochet a better one.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,166
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
mtt.tr
Member
- Messages
- 8,431
- Location
- Essex/Suffolk border
well done mate...i can do most things but plaster is not one of em
Its the thing that took me the longest to learn with much frustration which is why i never gave up cant be beaten ,
then one day on site it all came together and was bloody flying through gear since then kept going and i actually love doing it.
The guy who i learnt of gives me alot of work, which is decent as i do his carpentry - electrics - plastering- second fix. Keeps me busy
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 17,864
- Location
- Towcester
well done mate
I’m with you on that one
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 17,864
- Location
- Towcester
Looking good Matt
indy4x
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,248
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Nope, it wasn't, I just downloaded and printed it off as a quick test without looking at the original drawings.
I printed off my version and it retained its dimensions however a minor miscalculation on my part meant it still wasn't right so the MKII upgrade is printing as I type
Quite enjoying this 3D printing malarky now I can actually draw stuff in Inventor
My MKI version
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,323
- Location
- New Zealand
Not today but
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,735
- Location
- Teesside, England
So to build the frame for the surface plate table I need to cut some box section accurately, which in turn means I need to get the cheap as chips bandsaw I picked up from a farm auction up and running.
Won't be a fancy refurb, just new bearings and setting up properly but it did need a new stand as the flimsy tin one was collapsing.
So decided to create a frame that would bolt into the cast base for the bandsaw from some angle using the existing bolt holes.
Cut the angle to length and also made a couple of end plates up, relieved so they sat flat with the side rails.
Bolted it all in place then tacked up before fully welding.
Don't look too closely at the welds theya re pants, been 2 years since I last picked up the welder
Next up made some legs from 40mm box. Tacked into place using a block and comination square to get the angles right,
Cut a cross bar into place and wleded that in then started with the legs for the other end.
These will be under the motor end so as well as being splayed will also be set at a slight backward angle to make that end a bit more stable.
Still got the cross bar to make for this end. Legs are drilled to 25mm as will be mounted with some old cast wheels I have. the other end will have adjustable feet so that the saw doesn't move around in use
Cheers,
MM
Won't be a fancy refurb, just new bearings and setting up properly but it did need a new stand as the flimsy tin one was collapsing.
So decided to create a frame that would bolt into the cast base for the bandsaw from some angle using the existing bolt holes.
Cut the angle to length and also made a couple of end plates up, relieved so they sat flat with the side rails.
Bolted it all in place then tacked up before fully welding.
Don't look too closely at the welds theya re pants, been 2 years since I last picked up the welder
Next up made some legs from 40mm box. Tacked into place using a block and comination square to get the angles right,
Cut a cross bar into place and wleded that in then started with the legs for the other end.
These will be under the motor end so as well as being splayed will also be set at a slight backward angle to make that end a bit more stable.
Still got the cross bar to make for this end. Legs are drilled to 25mm as will be mounted with some old cast wheels I have. the other end will have adjustable feet so that the saw doesn't move around in use
Cheers,
MM
So to build the frame for the surface plate table I need to cut some box section accurately, which in turn means I need to get the cheap as chips bandsaw I picked up from a farm auction up and running.
Won't be a fancy refurb, just new bearings and setting up properly but it did need a new stand as the flimsy tin one was collapsing.
So decided to create a frame that would bolt into the cast base for the bandsaw from some angle using the existing bolt holes.
Cut the angle to length and also made a couple of end plates up, relieved so they sat flat with the side rails.
View attachment 206191
View attachment 206190
Bolted it all in place then tacked up before fully welding.
Don't look too closely at the welds theya re pants, been 2 years since I last picked up the welder
View attachment 206193
View attachment 206192
Next up made some legs from 40mm box. Tacked into place using a block and comination square to get the angles right,
View attachment 206194
Cut a cross bar into place and wleded that in then started with the legs for the other end.
These will be under the motor end so as well as being splayed will also be set at a slight backward angle to make that end a bit more stable.
View attachment 206197
Still got the cross bar to make for this end. Legs are drilled to 25mm as will be mounted with some old cast wheels I have. the other end will have adjustable feet so that the saw doesn't move around in use
Cheers,
MM
I made a similar base for my saw but at the front end I put a single leg that along with the wheels makes it 3-legged so it will sit level on any surface. I also added a handle for moving it that hinges down when not needed.
Dcal
Member
- Messages
- 3,954
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I made a "dolly" to fix the damage to a sliding door frame on the brother's boat that was damaged during a break in.
Because it's "boaty" the price of a new frame is crazy so worth having a go.
As it's going to be painted, I don't need to treat it with kid gloves, which is just as well.
I welded the dolly up in place for a good tight fit to slide in the frame and allow me to panel-beat the groves for the draft excluder strips back into some sort of shape.
It was that tight a fit I used an air hammer to move it along the slot, which worked well.
After straightening, as best I could, I welded the torn metal.
Now I haven't done any aluminum welding before and I don't have any proper filler rod (I used some from a small mig spool I had) so please excuse the rubbish welding.
I cleaned off the coatings with a flap disc and cleaned it with acetone.
Played about with the settings and it's probably running too cold but I was welding right on the edge of the frame.
There was also a crack that I welded as well.
It looks better after a going over with a body file and a flap disc.
Still doesn't look great but it is straight and only a mm or so low in places
Had to move the dolly and repair a couple more places, but exactly the same process and rubbish welding.
The nice fella that came to seal up the broken door decided it would be a great idea to tack-screw ply to the frame so I had 20 odd holes to fill as well.
Anyway job done, just need to fill and paint but the brother is doing that (I think)
Because it's "boaty" the price of a new frame is crazy so worth having a go.
As it's going to be painted, I don't need to treat it with kid gloves, which is just as well.
I welded the dolly up in place for a good tight fit to slide in the frame and allow me to panel-beat the groves for the draft excluder strips back into some sort of shape.
It was that tight a fit I used an air hammer to move it along the slot, which worked well.
After straightening, as best I could, I welded the torn metal.
Now I haven't done any aluminum welding before and I don't have any proper filler rod (I used some from a small mig spool I had) so please excuse the rubbish welding.
I cleaned off the coatings with a flap disc and cleaned it with acetone.
Played about with the settings and it's probably running too cold but I was welding right on the edge of the frame.
There was also a crack that I welded as well.
It looks better after a going over with a body file and a flap disc.
Still doesn't look great but it is straight and only a mm or so low in places
Had to move the dolly and repair a couple more places, but exactly the same process and rubbish welding.
The nice fella that came to seal up the broken door decided it would be a great idea to tack-screw ply to the frame so I had 20 odd holes to fill as well.
Anyway job done, just need to fill and paint but the brother is doing that (I think)
They go on display at an exhibition in Nuremberg next month,I’m also half way thru building 2 huge raised floors for this,and will go to Germany on a jolly to help erect these floors,photos of floors to follow.
