When I was learning about fine furniture making, every cut was done by hand for the first year or so .Today I reached a bit of a landmark in my first proper wood-bothering project. I'm still finding this cellulose stuff a bit odd compared to metal, but I'm getting there.
This is just a dry fit to see how it looks; I still need to do lots of sanding, some gluing and lots and lots of coats of varnish/oil mix.
Need to work on my hand sawing accuracy: all the saw cuts have required a lot of tidying up with chisels and/or planes!
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A 9 volt battery & bulb arrangement with a simple push or micro switch with a roller on the arm an adjustable rod so the switch actuator to metal contact under a slight pressure makes a circuit to light the bulb is far more accurate than the piece of wire method you are using or are you going to use a DTI once you've got it nearly there ?My front rim for my Suzuki is polished and laced up now. It still needs a little work truing it up but it was a much quicker job than the first one.
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Overtake a car?
Looks fine to me, theres always a different way to do it, doesnt mean its better. How accurate do you think the rims are anyway? If your getting it within 20 thou your doing a good job, you dont need a DTI.A 9 volt battery & bulb arrangement with a simple push or micro switch with a roller on the arm an adjustable rod so the switch actuator to metal contact under a slight pressure makes a circuit to light the bulb is far more accurate than the piece of wire method you are using or are you going to use a DTI once you've got it nearly there ?
looks very good if all done by hand show it when u have finished
When I was learning about fine furniture making, every cut was done by hand for the first year or so .
We had to use a squared off block of wood gently & protectively clamped to what we were cutting as a guide for the saw and used a back less Japanese pull saw ....you'll get perfect right angle polished vertical cuts along the line of your choice if you gently push the blade to the upright of the block with one hand as you draw the saw towards you with the other . .
Sorry about your friend.Yes infact we passed the afternoon as we always do , without bothering too much about laughing together but once alone I felt very sad
I looked at Excell rims but they were too expensive for my blood so these are just unbranded ones from eBay. It’s not a race bike or anything like that so they’ll do fine for my budget and requirements.I got to do some GT250 wheels next, is that an excell rim? Also are those unicycles hanging in the background?
Today I reached a bit of a landmark in my first proper wood-bothering project. I'm still finding this cellulose stuff a bit odd compared to metal, but I'm getting there.
This is just a dry fit to see how it looks; I still need to do lots of sanding, some gluing and lots and lots of coats of varnish/oil mix.
Need to work on my hand sawing accuracy: all the saw cuts have required a lot of tidying up with chisels and/or planes!
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That's the funny thing about finishes: every one I've spoken to seems to have their own "best finish". I think I'm going to go with a thinned mixture of Tung oil and varnish for this one (although I might change my mind yet). I've been trying lots of different ones on bits of scrap and that seems to look good so far.
Not all by hand, sorry! I've tried to do lots of it by hand, but have cheated and used power saws (with cuts cleaned up with hand planes) for some of the cuts as my hand sawing skills just aren't good enough. Mortice and tenons for the legs were all hand cut, as were the tapers on the legs. I don't have a plough plane, so the long grooves in the top for the "breadboard ends" (as apparently they're called) were cut with a router.
That sounds like a really good tip: I'll give it a try, thanks.
in cabinetry its normal practice to finish shoulders and tennons off with a hand plane.
Very smart looking
Never varnish wood, its always looks awful. Danish oil and wax is just about the nicest most natural finish
Thanks! Getting some sort of shoulder plane is high on my list having made the tenons: it would be nice to have a plane that can go into the corners rather than having to use chisels (although I do really enjoy paring with chisels).
The varnish I was talking about was mixed into the oil: a recipe recommended on another forum of equal parts Tung Oil, varnish and white spirit. As I understand it, that's basically what Danish Oil is: oil mixed with varnish and some sort of thinner.
Why 2 photos?