eLuSiVeMiTe
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And tested. Only one error didn't quite bridge a solderpad for the internal routing. All good now. Should have done this ages ago.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Fraserb
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Yeah it's a load of nonsense, to make them cleaner we're burning more fuel.
slim_boy_fat
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Shouldn't that be 'next to the place where the permanent one is going'? Otherwise you'll have to move it out of the way when the time comes......
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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It's one of those very plates that i need to cut when I asked about the 9" cutting discs in another thread!
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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Shouldn't that be 'next to the place where the permanent one is going'? Otherwise you'll have to move it out of the way when the time comes......
That would seem a good idea, but i have my reasons:
They're not as difficult to move as i expected.
I want to test that the permanent place is the *correct* place.
Theres not really many other convenient places for it.
doubleboost
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Brad93
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Proper job john
selectedgrub
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Awesome.
dobbslc
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Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Other Daniel
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My wife keeps getting new cars.
However, I'm running around in my trusty 2011 Ford Focus Estate.
She's a diesel burner (car not wife), and gives me an average 4.7 l/100km (60 mpg).
The majority of journeys being in country lanes, rolling hills, etc.
At least according to the onboard calculator.
I'm quite chuffed with that. Presently trying to get it down to 4.6, just to see if it's possible
ATB,
Daniel
Other Daniel
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Did you tap those threads, or cut them on the lathe ?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This was a small project, as a fill in the gaps between the other projects.
It was seized, so it was thrown into a bucket of Citric acid.
I have no idea what that "gunk" was. But it was very difficult to remove, all a wire brush did was to smear it around and it set again.
A blow torch brunt it off.
All finished.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This project is taking a break for a few days, as I need parts and some TIG Brazing.
This is has I got it.
The pump rod is broken at the join between the rod and parallel motion part.
The discharge pipe is a "modern" addition, for me I was lucky as it was a taper thread and did not damaged the internal thread.
The parallel motion saddle.
Being warmed up to remove the pin.
Every part was seized solid. But heat, oil and pullers had it in bits.
The only threads that are standard are the ones on the discharge pipe work. The rest are nearly 1/2" Whitworth, but not close enough.
Lucky there was only 12 square headed bolts to find the right hole.
The Broken part of the pump rod was below the surface of the Parallel Motion.
But I was able to drill a hole from the other side to help to remove the broken part.
The part was heated and the broken part was kept cold with dry ice, lots of oil was used and with time it came out.
The thread was cleaned up with needle files. This was a 4 coffee job.
During the strip down a flange fell apart.
Brazed up. This a nice job, a fine line between the rod flowing and the metal melting.
The body cleaned up.
This was a dirty slow job.
It was originally made by joining 3 sections of brass tube and hard soldering 2 saddles. The end flanges are separately made and hard soldered on.
This it as it stands, or lays.
I am waiting on the seals, if I can find some, or I will have to make them.
Plus the pump body has 2 lugs with taped holes.
Whit or UNC don't fit. Plus they are different diameters.
So this week I am asking a friend to fill the holes with TIG Brass and tap them to 1/2" Whit.
This is has I got it.
The pump rod is broken at the join between the rod and parallel motion part.
The discharge pipe is a "modern" addition, for me I was lucky as it was a taper thread and did not damaged the internal thread.
The parallel motion saddle.
Being warmed up to remove the pin.
Every part was seized solid. But heat, oil and pullers had it in bits.
The only threads that are standard are the ones on the discharge pipe work. The rest are nearly 1/2" Whitworth, but not close enough.
Lucky there was only 12 square headed bolts to find the right hole.
The Broken part of the pump rod was below the surface of the Parallel Motion.
But I was able to drill a hole from the other side to help to remove the broken part.
The part was heated and the broken part was kept cold with dry ice, lots of oil was used and with time it came out.
The thread was cleaned up with needle files. This was a 4 coffee job.
During the strip down a flange fell apart.
Brazed up. This a nice job, a fine line between the rod flowing and the metal melting.
The body cleaned up.
This was a dirty slow job.
It was originally made by joining 3 sections of brass tube and hard soldering 2 saddles. The end flanges are separately made and hard soldered on.
This it as it stands, or lays.
I am waiting on the seals, if I can find some, or I will have to make them.
Plus the pump body has 2 lugs with taped holes.
Whit or UNC don't fit. Plus they are different diameters.
So this week I am asking a friend to fill the holes with TIG Brass and tap them to 1/2" Whit.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
There is a saying:
In every dirty bit of wood is a nice peace trying to get out.
I have had this board kicking around for a long time. No idea where it came from, but it will be used to hold my pump.
Yes, I know there is a split, but in the use I plan, it will not matter.
But it had to be repaired.
The end of the split was drilled through, countersunk and ready to be filled.
The sides were planed down using a restored plane (Thanks @Chillitt and my friend Tim)
The markings for the wooden straps can be seen.
The crack was opened up, filled with Pearl Glue and clamped tight overnight.
One of my restored planes being used. Nice bit of kit. Not used one since my school days.
2 Pitch pine inserts fitted. They are bedded in on Linseed oil putty, this allows the 2 woods to move.
They are held in with Brass screws.
Then the holes, C/sunk holes and the split was filled with hard wax.
The stain, is grinding dust left in vinegar to create a dark stain. The length of time will set the colour of the stain.
Then you brush it on and let it dry.
Last edited:
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Terrible internal threading tool, can't decide if I should buy an indexable carbide one or a tool&cutter grinder. 
Maybe I can get some CBN inserts and machine my HSS, I've had enough of this grinder business.
Need a boring bar that size too and that was my last 1/4" piece of HSS.
Maybe I can get some CBN inserts and machine my HSS, I've had enough of this grinder business.Need a boring bar that size too and that was my last 1/4" piece of HSS.
