- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I did say it was terrible...Terrible internal threading tool, can't decide if I should buy an indexable carbide one or a tool&cutter grinder.Maybe I can get some CBN inserts and machine my HSS, I've had enough of this grinder business.
View attachment 244480
Need a boring bar that size too and that was my last 1/4" piece of HSS.
I'll grind some more clearance on the tool tomorrow and have another go.
I'm pretty sure you're not meant to cut the verge...
EddyP
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Today I made my milling machine work. When I bought it the inverter wasn’t wired properly, wasn’t mounted on the machine and the power feed was wired into a site transformer that sits on the floor next to the mill.
Made a mounting plate for the inverter and decided to mount a transformer for the feed and the fuses etc inside the column.
Quite happy with out it’s turned out.
Now need to make up a control station. Trying to work out how to make the Eurotherm inverter work from a pulsed rather than latched input, can make it start but not stop...
Made a mounting plate for the inverter and decided to mount a transformer for the feed and the fuses etc inside the column.
Quite happy with out it’s turned out.
Now need to make up a control station. Trying to work out how to make the Eurotherm inverter work from a pulsed rather than latched input, can make it start but not stop...
AndersK
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Finished the fuel tank for the Lombardini engine
Drove my brother's car prior him selling it .
Audi A4 Avant 1.9TDCI 2004
It's little bit longer for me
Otherwise he would give it to me as a birthday present
Ask for the A6 s-line with the 3 litre diesel engine next birthday. Drove around in Italy for a week with that car, fell in love straight away
Hertz in Bologna is the best rental station I've ever used, get an upgrade every time I'm there
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Just to make a tidy job of it
Some magnetic paper arrived today
Temporary. Il dig out a straight edge and knife once it's fully populated
Some magnetic paper arrived today
Temporary. Il dig out a straight edge and knife once it's fully populated
slim_boy_fat
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mtt.tr
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I decided im selling my 038 so gave it a wash, which lead onto my 550.
I apologise for chinese 200t but as my echo needs repairing and i needed a saw cant complain its pretty sturdy tuned with no trouble loads of power.
And very very cheap
That 550 I've had since they were released, first job it completed was over 100 fells must have 300+ plus trees under its belt.
I apologise for chinese 200t but as my echo needs repairing and i needed a saw cant complain its pretty sturdy tuned with no trouble loads of power.
And very very cheap
That 550 I've had since they were released, first job it completed was over 100 fells must have 300+ plus trees under its belt.
Last edited:
3000alloy
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Had a 038av for about 35 years on the farm. Beast of a saw. The pot went and repaired it about 4 years ago, since moved it on.
Memmeddu
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I'd like to have a 441 just because... Reasons
I don't really need one but I'd like to have something from Stihl
Feet 'n Inches
Out of the rat-race at last
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No fun kneeling on that stuff - I spent a day flooring out the top of a screen house with that stuff and tacking it to the beams. Could hardly walk for a while once finished.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Reground it, cut another and it was the same I blued the tool, ground where it was rubbing and finally got a usable thread, third time lucky eh.I did say it was terrible...
View attachment 244517
I'll grind some more clearance on the tool tomorrow and have another go.
The bendy little tool made a disgusting noise as it bounced along the thread, as can be seen in the surface finish. After five (
) spring passes it was still producing swarf but it's a nice snug fit on the shaft at that point so I left it at that.
Both parts got cleaned in acetone and loctite'd together. I specifically wanted to single point rather than tap the thread it so it was as concentric as possible with the shaft but as the OD is getting machined in place and it's never coming off, that was actually totally unnecessary.
Saved me the cost of a tap I suppose.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Not done by me, but it is for me.
I needed some TIG brazing done. I asked a contact if he can help. He said bring it in Monday and I will slip it in during the week.
Two holes needed to be filled. The reason, the threads are not standard.
So they were filled, drilled and tap out the 1/2" whit.
Why Whit?
The original holes were "nearly" whitworth and nothing would fit.
The bolts you can see are the same, they only fit in one place.
I needed some TIG brazing done. I asked a contact if he can help. He said bring it in Monday and I will slip it in during the week.
Two holes needed to be filled. The reason, the threads are not standard.
So they were filled, drilled and tap out the 1/2" whit.
Why Whit?
The original holes were "nearly" whitworth and nothing would fit.
The bolts you can see are the same, they only fit in one place.
mtt.tr
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No no no, ive never been a stihl fan. though i will make an exception for the 660 those i love in the past ive chunked down big stems on a spikes followed by an 088 tough work
BarrieJ
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I'm working on some coal forges. I want a side blast design with water jacket (for the tuyere) and I want it to be mobile enough for me to pull it ouside. With some advice from a smithing forum I drew up this hybrid design, welded steel firepot and steel top for a light and mobile design.
I also have a more traditional, but small forge (450x650mm) I was thinking the bottom could be lined with hollow fire bricks and a minimal amount of sand or bentonite clay used to shape the pit. In both cases I want a separate water tank instead of a traditional bosch.
Just offered as a bit of constructive advice, so no criticism of your ideas intended.
One of the biggest challenges facing blacksmiths on a daily basis is minimising scale on your workpiece, you'll always get it, it is after all a natural chemical process but you can try and minimise its formation. You'll need to brush it off every time you go to the anvil, so the less there is the better.
A fire can have one of three atmospheres:
- Oxidising: more oxygen than fuel (Carbon)
- Neutral: just enough oxygen and fuel, so that both are entirely consumed
- Or Reducing: more fuel, and hence more carbon, than oxygen
Where the reducing flame occurs in your forge depends much on the design of the forge and how you build your fire.
If you study side blast forges, particularly where they are water cooled, you'll find that there is no fire pot (as you'll find in a bottom blast forge). That area below the tuyere is made up with ash (or I've known a mix of sand and ash). As you build your fire, over and above the tuyere, the area that becomes the 'reducing' spot will be where you heat your metal.
Your metal will ideally enter the fire as close to horizontal as possible, in the event of a large piece, it's often impossible to do otherwise, so it's doubly important that the metal is where your 'sweet' spot is in the fire.
Putting your water cooled tuyere into the side of a fire pot will affect this.
If you intend to build your own forge and particularly wish to have a water cooled side blast then I'd be inclined to copy many of the traditional designs that have been in use for over a century.
Below: Bottom blast, I've used both, they each have their merits, side blast is easier to lift out clinker, although if a bit of coke gets into the tuyere, everything stops while you struggle to hook it out.
A bottom blast, really needs a clinker breaker, (not shown in the forge below) otherwise over a couple of hours your temperatures drop off as clinker forms over your air inlet. Naturally, a bottom blast is much easier to build and in 8mm plate will easily last you 20 years plus. Whichever you build, you'll need to design in some form of valve in the air supply, butterfly, blind or otherwise to control your air input, you'll need volume not pressure from your blower.
Best of luck with your build and your interest in the craft.
