Brad93
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Make sure you’ve got all the proper stuff for access stairs, it can be a minefield
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Lazurus
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RWD3M
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So not actually today but over the last few days, I made a boot floor for my son.
He recently bought the same car as me (almost) and it came with the ridiculous bottle of puncture repair kit and no spare wheel. Not a situation he was particularly happy with so as an early birthday present I got him a space saver and the jack kit that goes with it (not cheap by the way!). What I hadn't realised at the time was that cars with a space saver have a different boot floor.
A trawl of the internet revealed only one used one and it was £150 and I wasn't paying that!
So how hard could it be?! Not that hard as it turns out. A bit of ply (plenty lying around the shed), some inch wide black webbing for the little lifting handle (99p delivered) and a couple of metres of that material that's like velcro (£20 from my local auto trimmer) and I made one.
Here's a thing though, many on here decry the lack of a full size spare wheel (as do I) but it seems the move is now away from even having the space to put one in the car. Having a space saver (which I think personally are the work of Satan!) is something of a luxury.
He recently bought the same car as me (almost) and it came with the ridiculous bottle of puncture repair kit and no spare wheel. Not a situation he was particularly happy with so as an early birthday present I got him a space saver and the jack kit that goes with it (not cheap by the way!). What I hadn't realised at the time was that cars with a space saver have a different boot floor.
A trawl of the internet revealed only one used one and it was £150 and I wasn't paying that!
So how hard could it be?! Not that hard as it turns out. A bit of ply (plenty lying around the shed), some inch wide black webbing for the little lifting handle (99p delivered) and a couple of metres of that material that's like velcro (£20 from my local auto trimmer) and I made one.
Here's a thing though, many on here decry the lack of a full size spare wheel (as do I) but it seems the move is now away from even having the space to put one in the car. Having a space saver (which I think personally are the work of Satan!) is something of a luxury.
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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Crazy paving.
Layout only, as i got rained off.
It's actually more difficult than i imagined, getting it proportionate AND "crazy" enough. It's on a par with drystone walling, whereas i was expecting it to be more "smash up some slabs and spread them out"
I'm *still* not completely happy with it.
Layout only, as i got rained off.
It's actually more difficult than i imagined, getting it proportionate AND "crazy" enough. It's on a par with drystone walling, whereas i was expecting it to be more "smash up some slabs and spread them out"
I'm *still* not completely happy with it.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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If you want accurate splits. Cut 3/4 from the underside then give it a tap with a hammerCrazy paving.
Layout only, as i got rained off.
It's actually more difficult than i imagined, getting it proportionate AND "crazy" enough. It's on a par with drystone walling, whereas i was expecting it to be more "smash up some slabs and spread them out"
I'm *still* not completely happy with it.
Used to do the above with Indian sandstone then knap the edges so cuts matched rather than being a straight grinder cut
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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Ohhhhh.
Never considered shaping the pieces.
Was just laying them "as smashed".
That will make it easier.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Ohhhhh.
Never considered shaping the pieces.
Was just laying them "as smashed".
That will make it easier.
Few times I've had to do it I'd smash a few up and lay out the bulk then shape the rest to suit
eLuSiVeMiTe
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bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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I'm going to restart tomorrow - its got ½in of rain in it at the moment, and i'm not kneeling in that!
New plan:
Lay out the perimeter first.
Put in some other larger pieces, then infill with pieces trimmed as needed.
ta for advice
New plan:
Lay out the perimeter first.
Put in some other larger pieces, then infill with pieces trimmed as needed.
ta for advice
Dr.Al
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A little over a month ago, I acquired a few tools from the Vintage Tool Shop in Stalbridge.
Amongst these tools was a hand saw that had, judging from the state of the teeth, had a very hard life. The edge was wavy (by about a millimetre variation when a ruler was placed up against it) and the teeth were all different widths, seemingly at random. The teeth were also different lengths, over and beyond the waviness of the edge. It was generally a mess. I bought it anyway, thinking it would be an interesting project to see whether I could do anything with it.
Turns out it's quite hard!
I definitely should have taken some close up pictures of the teeth to show what state they were in (the photo on my "Today I acquired" post linked above makes it look quite good, but it really wasn't).
Anyway, I started by taking it apart and filing all the teeth off.
I then put a bit of polyunknownium (previously acquired by skip diving) in the lathe and used a little tool I made (out of an old hacksaw blade - originally intended for cutting circlip grooves) to put narrow grooves at 2 mm increments:
I then milled a flat on one side and clamped the saw in the vice between the plastic bar and a bit of aluminium:
I'd watched a few youtube videos about this and Paul Sellers (who had also gone for 2 mm pitch) had suggested cutting down with the hacksaw to about 1/8" (circa 3 mm). I had calculated it should be about 1.2 mm so I went with a compromise and set the aluminium about 1.6 mm below the edge. As you'll see later, I suspect he meant to say something smaller (or I misheard!).
I then used a junior hacksaw to cut square teeth. It probably would have been better with two of the plastic references (to help keep the hacksaw straight): my sawing skills leave a lot to be desired.
Not bad though, even if the widths are varying a little:
I then got rid of the plastic, stuck a bit of wood on the end of a triangular needle file to help me keep it aligned properly (an idea from a Rob Cosman video) and filed each of the teeth in turn.
Certainly not perfect by a long stretch, but it's a lot better than it was:
If I'm feeling like I can face it, I might have another go at some point, with two reference bars (or by cutting the one I've already made in half) and a shallower hacksaw cut.
I haven't used the saw setter I bought at the same time yet, but I had a go at cutting with it and even without any set it worked surprisingly well for my first attempt at making saw teeth:
Amongst these tools was a hand saw that had, judging from the state of the teeth, had a very hard life. The edge was wavy (by about a millimetre variation when a ruler was placed up against it) and the teeth were all different widths, seemingly at random. The teeth were also different lengths, over and beyond the waviness of the edge. It was generally a mess. I bought it anyway, thinking it would be an interesting project to see whether I could do anything with it.
Turns out it's quite hard!
I definitely should have taken some close up pictures of the teeth to show what state they were in (the photo on my "Today I acquired" post linked above makes it look quite good, but it really wasn't).
Anyway, I started by taking it apart and filing all the teeth off.
I then put a bit of polyunknownium (previously acquired by skip diving) in the lathe and used a little tool I made (out of an old hacksaw blade - originally intended for cutting circlip grooves) to put narrow grooves at 2 mm increments:
I then milled a flat on one side and clamped the saw in the vice between the plastic bar and a bit of aluminium:
I'd watched a few youtube videos about this and Paul Sellers (who had also gone for 2 mm pitch) had suggested cutting down with the hacksaw to about 1/8" (circa 3 mm). I had calculated it should be about 1.2 mm so I went with a compromise and set the aluminium about 1.6 mm below the edge. As you'll see later, I suspect he meant to say something smaller (or I misheard!).
I then used a junior hacksaw to cut square teeth. It probably would have been better with two of the plastic references (to help keep the hacksaw straight): my sawing skills leave a lot to be desired.
Not bad though, even if the widths are varying a little:
I then got rid of the plastic, stuck a bit of wood on the end of a triangular needle file to help me keep it aligned properly (an idea from a Rob Cosman video) and filed each of the teeth in turn.
Certainly not perfect by a long stretch, but it's a lot better than it was:
If I'm feeling like I can face it, I might have another go at some point, with two reference bars (or by cutting the one I've already made in half) and a shallower hacksaw cut.
I haven't used the saw setter I bought at the same time yet, but I had a go at cutting with it and even without any set it worked surprisingly well for my first attempt at making saw teeth:
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Very cool, I've been thinking about making a saw from scratch, nice tennon saws are bloody expensive! Have you tried ripping with it? The gullet is possibly a bit small for it but the square tooth profile is more suited to going with the grain rather than across it.
(Random pic from Google)
slim_boy_fat
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Get yourself a saw set, that'll offset the teeth and make a proper kerf.
Dr.Al
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I haven't tried yet: my stomach was telling me I had more important things to do. I'll probably give it a go tomorrow.
I got one at the same time as I got the saw. I just haven't got as far as using it on this saw yet. That's the next job.
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Finally got the barrow style trolley finished for my Lister D stationary engine.
Before...
After...
Before...
After...
Johnnybravo
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Been making a 76mm core drill.Just need to finish the insert holders tomorrow,and then it’s good to go. Have two hundred blanks 35mm thick to bang a hole into and bore out to 76,5 mm. This should dispatch with them double quick, hopefully about a minute per hole....or faster 
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I can see why you were after such a big motor.Been making a 76mm core drill.Just need to finish the insert holders tomorrow,and then it’s good to go. Have two hundred blanks 35mm thick to bang a hole into and bore out to 76,5 mm. This should dispatch with them double quick, hopefully about a minute per hole....or faster
Johnnybravo
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I can see why you were after such a big motor.
.....Errr...No
This is the small drill. My cnc lathe has enough grunt to drive it . The other drill is the issue as it needs to be 170mm and my cnc lathe hasn’t got enough torque at the speed I need to rotate it That’s a whole different ballgame...
Johnnybravo
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Finished the insert holders and put in the adjuster.
Assembled everything and gave it a wizz. Very happy. Power consumption on par with a 30mm Udrill. Still need to play around with speeds and feeds. 35mm deep hole , 75,5mm diameter through a lump of En3b in well under a minute. Nice surface finish and really quiet. Need a 15kw motor now,so I can build Big Bertha, the 170mm diameter version of this .
Needs more feed to get it to chip better. Running 0,1mm per rev feed at the moment. Think it’s going to be closer to 0,2mm per rev when it’s optimised. Well happy....
Just had a delivery of 205 blanks,so can play around some more on Monday
Assembled everything and gave it a wizz. Very happy. Power consumption on par with a 30mm Udrill. Still need to play around with speeds and feeds. 35mm deep hole , 75,5mm diameter through a lump of En3b in well under a minute. Nice surface finish and really quiet. Need a 15kw motor now,so I can build Big Bertha, the 170mm diameter version of this .
Needs more feed to get it to chip better. Running 0,1mm per rev feed at the moment. Think it’s going to be closer to 0,2mm per rev when it’s optimised. Well happy....
Just had a delivery of 205 blanks,so can play around some more on Monday
