RWD3M
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- Wiltshire, UK
And my GT6, though strictly speaking it becomes the lower arm.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Fraserb
Member
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- 1,562
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- Scottish Borders
Made a field dirty.
Been subsoiled so the turf is already cut up and makes lumpy furrows
View attachment 283946
Its never fun ploughing after the subsoiler, had a 50 acre field where they'd subsoiled it basically the same angle as I needed to plough it, that wasn't pretty.
What happens at 30+sqm?
RWD3M
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- 3,219
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- Wiltshire, UK
RWD3M
Forum Supporter
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- 3,219
- Location
- Wiltshire, UK
Probably best and easiest to just get on to your local county council website, all the planning rules, especially what you're allowed to now do under 'Permitted Development' will be there.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,308
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
Year ago my Sister/Brother in law were wanting to build a wooden double garage but for that size they needed to involve the planning department. They got in touch and the guy said easiest way is to build 2 with a shared wall down the centre and the wall can have a door connecting the two. They asked how big that door could be and he basically said as big as you want
Whether that still holds true or not I have no idea and in fact I think a few years later they changed the rules and the double would have been allowed anyway but...
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- Never Never Land
From what I gather you would need building regulation aproval and probably need them to come and inspect it. For me it was easier to do it just under 30sqm
qwakers
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- 2,102
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- cornwall, united kingdom
pit wiring in and lights in. need a bit more wire to finish sockets...
feed to lights pulled through.
light switch wired in and pit socket ring feed tapped into ring main
had a slightly perturbing moment, one of the lights was flickering half its leds...
slight issue, I invalidated the warranty when I slightly modified them to work how I need to fit them..
its all good though, id forgotten to put the wiring cover back and it was touching the damp paint..
feed to lights pulled through.
light switch wired in and pit socket ring feed tapped into ring main
had a slightly perturbing moment, one of the lights was flickering half its leds...
slight issue, I invalidated the warranty when I slightly modified them to work how I need to fit them..
its all good though, id forgotten to put the wiring cover back and it was touching the damp paint..
zx9
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- 5,170
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- South East London
After been inspired by @MattF in the relaxed turning thread, today I finished turning these.
Into a tool post drill guide.
And a better view of the guide.
The body was turned from a bit of scrap water barrel which is welded to a 10x 12.5mm mild steel strip, I should have gone 10x 15mm to give more room for the fillet or got more argon for the tig and done it a bit tidier. Not shown in the first photo are a couple of thrust bearings though really only the front one is needed as I shall be using the cross slide to put on the feed.
Last photo is the back locating ring with the first hole I have drilled using the drill guide, I just need a shorter 5mm grub screw to finish it off.
And this is why I have a sudden need for stub drills.
Into a tool post drill guide.
And a better view of the guide.
The body was turned from a bit of scrap water barrel which is welded to a 10x 12.5mm mild steel strip, I should have gone 10x 15mm to give more room for the fillet or got more argon for the tig and done it a bit tidier. Not shown in the first photo are a couple of thrust bearings though really only the front one is needed as I shall be using the cross slide to put on the feed.
Last photo is the back locating ring with the first hole I have drilled using the drill guide, I just need a shorter 5mm grub screw to finish it off.
And this is why I have a sudden need for stub drills.
on Thursday i reversed my lorry over some very soft ground and the mud guard got caught under the wheel destroying one of the irons and bending the other one so it is unrecognisable. do you have any pictures and the angle of the brackets as i will need to make some new ones
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
Blimey that’s no going anywhere is it!
indy4x
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
That would be correct
When a built my garage a few years ago I kept it at 30 sq m to avoid paying for building regs as I wasn't flush at the time
I did add an extension 2 years later that was about 7 sq m
I bought a ripper with a pipe layer attachment for the tractor, although I had been planning to make one for a while. We have a never ending number of water lines on the farm, many just lying on the surface where they get damaged, so there is a plan to bury them. I was going to make one, but for $NZ498 (250 pounds ish) new but shop soiled, it was worth saving a weekends work since it would be years before it got to the top of the list to be done…
I converted it to Cat 2 (25mm) pins from the standard Cat 1 (20mm) pins, and I have a quick hitch adapter on the small tractor that makes changing attachments easy – as long as they have the correct pin spacing. I turned up a pin and spacer for each end to suit from some 50mm bar, since I had it in the scrap pile.
I converted it to Cat 2 (25mm) pins from the standard Cat 1 (20mm) pins, and I have a quick hitch adapter on the small tractor that makes changing attachments easy – as long as they have the correct pin spacing. I turned up a pin and spacer for each end to suit from some 50mm bar, since I had it in the scrap pile.
And this last weekend, the project was a redneck Ditch Witch, and my entry in the farmer bodger awards
I have had this petrol powered walk behind chain trencher for a couple of years. I bought it “as new” when I needed to put in some effluent lines for an effluent hydrant system. I quickly found it was a cumbersome, extremely heavy thing that was hard work. It did work, but was slow and tiring, so went back in the shed and I hired a real Ditch Witch chain trencher for a couple of weekends. While it made easy work of it, the $NZ650 per weekend hurt a bit.
I have more waterlines to bury, and this thing has been a pain in the rear in the implement shed for to long, and it is time for it to go or earn it’s keep. Since I didn’t have any confidence that it would work, I cobbled up an adapter for the 3 point linkage and tacked on some RHS bits under the axle and a tiedown and took it out into the paddock to try it out.
We have had heavy rain for 3 days, so the ground was soft, but it worked better than expected. It really needs a tractor with a lower first gear or hydrostatic transmission as it is a bit fast, but as I don’t think it will get a lot of use, and it is paid for, so good enough.
I need to modify the fram as the lever that drops the bar down hits it, so the depth of cut is only 200mm. I also need to sort out the hydrualic top link on the tractor as an easy way to alter the angle and depth on the fly.
One disadvantage of it is that it doesn't have a scraper behind the chain so the trench is half full of dirt that needs scooping out.
I have had this petrol powered walk behind chain trencher for a couple of years. I bought it “as new” when I needed to put in some effluent lines for an effluent hydrant system. I quickly found it was a cumbersome, extremely heavy thing that was hard work. It did work, but was slow and tiring, so went back in the shed and I hired a real Ditch Witch chain trencher for a couple of weekends. While it made easy work of it, the $NZ650 per weekend hurt a bit.
I have more waterlines to bury, and this thing has been a pain in the rear in the implement shed for to long, and it is time for it to go or earn it’s keep. Since I didn’t have any confidence that it would work, I cobbled up an adapter for the 3 point linkage and tacked on some RHS bits under the axle and a tiedown and took it out into the paddock to try it out.
We have had heavy rain for 3 days, so the ground was soft, but it worked better than expected. It really needs a tractor with a lower first gear or hydrostatic transmission as it is a bit fast, but as I don’t think it will get a lot of use, and it is paid for, so good enough.
I need to modify the fram as the lever that drops the bar down hits it, so the depth of cut is only 200mm. I also need to sort out the hydrualic top link on the tractor as an easy way to alter the angle and depth on the fly.
One disadvantage of it is that it doesn't have a scraper behind the chain so the trench is half full of dirt that needs scooping out.
