the whole thing would need to be remachined, you'll be amazed at how much distortion there will be from silver soldering/brazing
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the whole thing would need to be remachined, you'll be amazed at how much distortion there will be from silver soldering/brazing
sometimes its the little things that make you happy, like making a jig for for sticking two bits of plastic together. on the model boat Im making I need to make some paddle boxes for covering the paddle wheels. as the paddle wheels are 46mm diameter this was a bit fiddley to do accurately. so I thought I'd make a simple jig to do it.
so the shape of the paddle box was machined onto a priece of MDF. if it was larger I would have done it freehand on a disc sander.
then add a few screws so that I can use magnets to hold the sheet styrene in place, and pins to locate the bottom of the sides, and chamfer the sides of the mdf so that it wont be glued to the styrene.
hold the top in place with magnets and tape the side in place, so that you can apply the styrene cement to both edges
and then just stick together......takes longer to do, but much better than trying to hold it with your fingers
and a paddle wheel, the sides where milled from sheet on a rotary table
so the shape of the paddle box was machined onto a priece of MDF. if it was larger I would have done it freehand on a disc sander.
then add a few screws so that I can use magnets to hold the sheet styrene in place, and pins to locate the bottom of the sides, and chamfer the sides of the mdf so that it wont be glued to the styrene.
hold the top in place with magnets and tape the side in place, so that you can apply the styrene cement to both edges
and then just stick together......takes longer to do, but much better than trying to hold it with your fingers
and a paddle wheel, the sides where milled from sheet on a rotary table
Kram
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Yes I got some in the taper so it will need to be recut, Im not sure about distortion, it wasnt a problem last time - I was still able to indicate with no significant runout on the taper or od.
Afternoon stripping the last paint from the little bike tank, some surface rust on the weld seems came off easy with wire brush.
Its not in bad condition for a 29 year old bike.
DAPPH
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My wife asks ...what is the gate made of steel , alu or stainless ? I said it looks like mild steel that's been electo galv'ed or aluminium paint sprayed . So please tell us as the suspense if frightening .
Aluminium we'll see how it copes with the sea air
Brad93
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Better than galv in many cases
MattF
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Body made from a piece of this:
Not perfect, but it'll act as a tester for revisionII.
That pulley was a cow to make, on my lathe. Had to get creative to work around the lathes limitations. Made from steel, not aluminium.
The screw & oil holes are drilled by hand, (still no pillar drill yet), so no picking on misalignment.
Not perfect, but it'll act as a tester for revisionII.
That pulley was a cow to make, on my lathe. Had to get creative to work around the lathes limitations. Made from steel, not aluminium.
The screw & oil holes are drilled by hand, (still no pillar drill yet), so no picking on misalignment.
Onoff
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A batch of traditional and then choc chip rick cakes for the kids (yesterday):
Then today (for me), a bfo "rich fruit cake" from the Dairy Book Of Home Cookery, this in homage to my late Mum. There's 1.5kg of mixed dried fruit, chopped dates, glace cherries and mixed peel in it plus 8 eggs. Said 4-4.5hrs at 150degC but it's had about 3.5hrs and seems done. First fruit cake I've ever made:
Then today (for me), a bfo "rich fruit cake" from the Dairy Book Of Home Cookery, this in homage to my late Mum. There's 1.5kg of mixed dried fruit, chopped dates, glace cherries and mixed peel in it plus 8 eggs. Said 4-4.5hrs at 150degC but it's had about 3.5hrs and seems done. First fruit cake I've ever made:
Brad93
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What’s it for?Body made from a piece of this:
View attachment 285513
Not perfect, but it'll act as a tester for revisionII.
View attachment 285514
View attachment 285515
That pulley was a cow to make, on my lathe. Had to get creative to work around the lathes limitations. Made from steel, not aluminium.
The screw & oil holes are drilled by hand, (still no pillar drill yet), so no picking on misalignment.
MattF
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The lathe. For cross drilling, drilling whilst indexing via the headstock etc.
Last edited:
zx9
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I have today finished making the tail stock die holder, something that could be bought for not a lot of money but I wanted something a bit different. Mine is double ended so will take 1" or 13/16" dies.
It was sized to fit into a length of steel that I happened to have, I turned the 1" end first then turned it around in the chuck to reduce the 13 /16" end, it was then bored through and reamed to take the 12mm silver steel rod upon which it slides.
At this point I noticed that:
I can not easily hold it to drill for the grub screws or 8mm rod handles.
I can not position it to as above.
I can not drill it accurately once the positions of the screws are found.
Holding it was easy, I super glued the 12mm silver steel into place, job done and it could be easily burnt out when I had finished.
To position the part I made the gear index plunger which I posted a couple of weeks ago, in the process finding that the 'Drummond@ version did need the longer reach and a distance piece so they had to be turned and made up.
Here it is in use with a forty tooth change wheel.
Which allowed me to use the tool post drill guide I posted last week.
All that fun for some thing that could have been bought for a few quid and arrived from China in less time that it took to make all the other tools required.
It was sized to fit into a length of steel that I happened to have, I turned the 1" end first then turned it around in the chuck to reduce the 13 /16" end, it was then bored through and reamed to take the 12mm silver steel rod upon which it slides.
At this point I noticed that:
I can not easily hold it to drill for the grub screws or 8mm rod handles.
I can not position it to as above.
I can not drill it accurately once the positions of the screws are found.
Holding it was easy, I super glued the 12mm silver steel into place, job done and it could be easily burnt out when I had finished.
To position the part I made the gear index plunger which I posted a couple of weeks ago, in the process finding that the 'Drummond@ version did need the longer reach and a distance piece so they had to be turned and made up.
Here it is in use with a forty tooth change wheel.
Which allowed me to use the tool post drill guide I posted last week.
All that fun for some thing that could have been bought for a few quid and arrived from China in less time that it took to make all the other tools required.
MattF
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All that fun for some thing that could have been bought for a few quid and arrived from China in less time that it took to make all the other tools required.
At least when you make it yourself, you get exactly what you want, & you know you're not relying on anyone elses interpretation of tolerances etc.
DAPPH
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Drilling the grub screw holes & threading them before you taper the end up makes life a lot easier especially if you turn a fine ring groove on the stock so you get a line/ groove to work /measure to /with .
zx9
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You are quite correct, I made it off the top of my head which is very bad form I know.
This did not even have a fag packet design which is probably why I had to resort to super glue arbour and to be honest if I had drawn it out and thought it through it probably would not have happened, I would have bought one in each size and would now be looking at the 3/8" 40tpi and 1/4" 40tpi screws I had already made.
Help it along with a nice big dollop of ice cream
