Stuff you have made today

[My Old Landy]

It is nearly complete.............

Thanks to @doubleboost for cutting out the centre. The mug has a picture of my old Fireblade, I miss riding bikes

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Last job from the weekend, was this coffee No.4 Coffee grinder.



It was complete, but poorly restored. Just look at the poor gold paint. It also had a "clunk" when used to grind coffee beans.

What a real pain to strip down.



Heat, oil, brut force and a few bad words had it in bits.

You can see the rust on the screws, it held the fixings in very tight. The amount of paint did not help.

On the left is the back plate and mount. It had a crack in it. The 6 layers of black paint hid it very well.
I had to put my hands up and admit it was not going to be fixed in my workshop. So I got a friend to TIG Braze it up.
The ends of the crack was drilled, the crack "V" out and cleaned. Then my friend TIG it up and dressed it back.



3 coats of red filler primer, food safe as well.
The Grinding flutes were cleaned up and re-formed as required with a dremel.


Food safe paint, bit of gold bling and 3 coats of food save clear coat.



The white paint forming a smile is as it was meant to be from the factory. It will show is the oils from the beans are leaking out from grinding the beans when they are too hot.





The rear end. More bling and the adjuster is not few and the right length. It was 3mm to long, that was forcing the adjuster spring out to far.

The 2 Wall mounted grinders on show.

 

[gaz1]

View attachment 291896
Scratch plate for a mates guitar! It’s only a test - the finished article will be in stainless and have his initials on.

this one was to test the shape and holes from a paper template he sent me. The logo? Well that’s what friends are for. Right?

is that for a lady friend or what as that looks more like 2 balls and ...

 

[MattF]

Heat, oil, brut force and a few bad words had it in bits.

Didn't realise Brut had so many uses.

 

[Dr.Al]

My table saw's guard attaches to the riving knife. I'm guessing this is common, but it seems like a really bad idea and right pain in the proverbial posterior. The saw isn't very powerful and I often find it better to do cuts in multiple passes, gradually raising the blade and taking repeated cuts. The riving knife has to be at its lowest setting without the guard attached for all the partial cuts; to attach the guard for the final cut, you have to remove the insert (which is impossible if the fence is over the top of it), undo a clip, raise the riving knife, tighten the clip and then replace the insert. Suffice to say the guard doesn't often make it into place.

I liked the look of Steve Maskery's magnetic guard, but my local hardware store doesn't sell the aluminium magnets that would be required to make this work with my saw, so this evening I set about constructing an alternative more suited to my use.

It's made out of odds and ends I had lying around; a bit of 3 mm plate left over from the bar clamps I recently made; some 10 mm and 12 mm round EN1A bar that I always keep loads of in stock and a bit of 16 mm square EN1A bar that was in the drawer. The coupling thing at the top came off an old magnetic base; all the other bits of said base have since been harvested for other purposes: this was the last bit left. The only other components are a few M6 cap screws.

The guard that came with the saw attaches to the mount, so I didn't have to think about making anything custom.

It's clamped on with a method akin to a toolmaker's clamp: two bits of 16 mm square bar and two screws, one pulling and one pushing. The screw on the side stops the vertical 12 mm round bar from rotating (there's a flat filed on the side of the round bar).

Due to the way it mounts, I can also use the guard with the cross-cut sled.

It obviously has to be mounted high enough that it'll clear the fence, but it still gives a certain amount of protection, so that seems good to me.

When not in use, cross-bar pivots to point vertically and it can be left attached but out of the way when the table saw is spun round, wheeled under the bench and covered with the cross-cut sled and the portable workbench (sorry for the cluttered photo).

Hopefully this will mean I use the guard a lot more than I previously have done. After the portable workbench and the bar clamps, it was nice to do a project that I started and finished in one evening!

 

[selectedgrub]

It is nearly complete.............
View attachment 291910
Thanks to @doubleboost for cutting out the centre. The mug has a picture of my old Fireblade, I miss riding bikes

If I may suggest turning the numerals the right way up.
The numbers on a clock are never upside down or on their sides.

Looks great

 

[Dr.Al]

If I may suggest turning the numerals the right way up.
The numbers on a clock are never upside down or on their sides.

Looks great

I thought that when I saw it, but I wasn't sure so I googled it ("clock roman numerals"). I think "never" might be too strong a word...

 

[My Old Landy]

If I may suggest turning the numerals the right way up.
The numbers on a clock are never upside down or on their sides.

Looks great

They do seem to be like that on commercial ones too.

 

[selectedgrub]

Forgive me, sorry I didn't think about the roman numerical type ones
Carry on

 

[Tupers]

The shrinker stretcher’s all assembled and ready to go. I do like a bit of signal red.

 

[badabec]

Roman numerals point to the centre, Arabic numerals are vertical. Like these bouncing doll clocks I made/repaired

 

[Memmeddu]

Inox alloy (Monel piece from an offshore something) bushcraft knife , just have nothing to do in those days so ...

 

[finyuk2005]

made a pair of handrails, one for a very special customer, my granny, who had a new hip done last week!
Fairly happy how they turned out, should look good once painted,

I am needing some advice though, and that is, whats the best method of fixing the foot to a paving slab securely without cracking the slab?
would a heap of resin and some threaded bar be best?

cheers!

 

[DAPPH]

made a pair of handrails, one for a very special customer, my granny, who had a new hip done last week!
Fairly happy how they turned out, should look good once painted,

I am needing some advice though, and that is, whats the best method of fixing the foot to a paving slab securely without cracking the slab?
would a heap of resin and some threaded bar be best?

cheers!

They look good .
Fitting in a slab near an edge ..... slow drill with a drill off hammer and use Hilti ( in date " chemical anchors so you get a stress free anchor solidly set in the slab . If it is to be a 10 mm or greater dia fixing close to an edge predrill with a 5 mm masonry bit first then follow on with the correct clearance size masonry bit
Resin anchors and sometimes plastic holed top hat inserts are the way to go . ( Look up the Hilti system on line. )
Depending on how thick the slabs are you can use 6 mm upwards precision high grade stainless steel studding to cut your own anchor studs .

Cut the studding at 45 % . allow at least an inch to be proud of the slab ..it can be ground off if required later on .
Accurately drill all the pilot holes for the whole job then blow out the dust with a puffer ball etc. Once you've put the Hilti glue cartridge in a hole push in a cut stud ....pointy end down in each hole so you have the rail in the right position . Then one hole at a time and spin a stud in the drill to break the capsule and thoroughly mix it . Release the stud push it down do each hole in turn & let it settle down into the hole and cure for the correct time at the given temp ( add an hour or more to be sure ) then put a stainless washer & ny lock nut on the studding . Usually you'll have a decent 15 min or so to play with before the chemical anchors start to set .
You can usually get to within 3/4 inch of an edge in slabs using this method so long as you do not use any form of hammer drilling as that will all too often cause at least one hole to blow out .
The same with all the the expanding anchor bolt types they'll bow the hole once the pressure starts being applied .


If the slabs are really thin hole cut a 4 inch hole in the middle of the place where the plate will sit , vacuum out a bulb shaped hole to a depth of a foot or so & pour in a runny fine concrete mix smooth ot with a trowel then give it a week or two to partially cure and again use the chemical anchor method.

I don't think using screws or coach bolt screws in plastic plugs would be safe to secure the hand rail .... The dividing partition in our garden when we came here was anchored with a mixture of them and the first bit of push from my 4 yr old daughter & golden retriever saw the divider pull out the screws .

 

[Hood]

MultiMonti/ThunderBolts or one of the other names they go by are excellent. You drill a hole the correct size and screw them in and they cut a thread so can be removed later if required and then put back in. They don't expand anything so won't crack a slab and can be used close to an edge.

 

[finyuk2005]

thanks for that, i might end up doing the concrete method you described, sounds like that would be the most secure,
although i did pick up a few small 6mm thunderbolt style ones, i could always try that first and see how it holds
cheers dudes!

 

[Hood]

thanks for that, i might end up doing the concrete method you described, sounds like that would be the most secure,
although i did pick up a few small 6mm thunderbolt style ones, i could always try that first and see how it holds
cheers dudes!

They hold exceptionally well as long as the hole you initially drill is the correct size. I have heavy transformers, lathe tools, milling tools, welder brackets etc all held up with them.

A couple of pics below.

I also fitted some hand rails I made a while back and used them, some of the fixings were into concrete slabs and the others were into granite setts and I was surprised how well they cut into the granite, I thought I was going to have issues but it was easy.

 

[James1979]

They hold exceptionally well as long as the hole you initially drill is the correct size. I have heavy transformers, lathe tools, milling tools, welder brackets etc all held up with them.

A couple of pics below.

View attachment 292069View attachment 292070

I also fitted some hand rails I made a while back and used them, some of the fixings were into concrete slabs and the others were into granite setts and I was surprised how well they cut into the granite, I thought I was going to have issues but it was easy.

Getting the proper branded Thunderbolt ones is a world apart to the cheap ones

 

[Hood]

Last ones I got were DeWalt and they seemed fine, that is the ones that cut into the granite.

 

[Memmeddu]

Getting the proper branded Thunderbolt ones is a world apart to the cheap ones

Do you mean an A10?