Dr.Al
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Are you calling me short?!About 6' slim build and dark hair.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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I did say about.
The centre hole (also has a plastic sleeve in it to cushion it) was relatively easy compared with the two stop holes I re-positioned! Broke two 2.5s but they were Aldi specials! Cutting the bits off was PITA, had to resort to the Dremmel and not the trusty junior hacksawI once used a cheapo caliper for the manual Bridgeport but couldn't drill the bleeding thing even with a carbide drill, ended up welding a bit to the end
Once through the hardening they filed quite well to shape.
Dr.Al
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I'm not sure ±6" is a fair tolerance for a forum with this many machinists!
Nice to have a standard I can work to
Red'n'Black
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Well not today but just before I collected the Centec.
Following on from @Hood putting a DRO on his tailstock I invalidated the Lidl guarantee
View attachment 292916
Then did a bit more to it, fitted a magnet from an old hard drive and made a clamp!
View attachment 292919
So it fits like this
View attachment 292917
View attachment 292918
I was planning a similar thing myself, a home-made DRO to fit to the mini-mill. Most of the cheapy calipers have a serial data output you can decode with an Arduino or similar and drive a big display. Anothet project on the to-do list...
My biggest concern would be drilling and fitting the guts of the caliper to the machine accurately enough.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Finished my capstone mould...I guess. For tomorrow we cast!
Made up a square of 15mm copper to give a drip recess.
Currently got the copper glued to the timber with some blobs of CT1 and cable tied on whilst it sets:
I'm going to put a square of galv mesh in halfway through the pour. Got one piece of 25x25x2.5 enough for just one cap. Then some 12.5x12.5x1.5, enough for two. Not sure if the smaller mesh will be strong enough...
I was going to line the mould with say plastic sheet DPM. Just couldn't get it flat. Even tried ironing it with SWMBO's iron. I did put a fillet of silicone on all the internal edges and took it off with a Cramer Fugi tool. Guess I'll just brush the internal faces with vegetable oil?
Made up a square of 15mm copper to give a drip recess.
Currently got the copper glued to the timber with some blobs of CT1 and cable tied on whilst it sets:
I'm going to put a square of galv mesh in halfway through the pour. Got one piece of 25x25x2.5 enough for just one cap. Then some 12.5x12.5x1.5, enough for two. Not sure if the smaller mesh will be strong enough...
I was going to line the mould with say plastic sheet DPM. Just couldn't get it flat. Even tried ironing it with SWMBO's iron. I did put a fillet of silicone on all the internal edges and took it off with a Cramer Fugi tool. Guess I'll just brush the internal faces with vegetable oil?
James1979
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Mate who makes fibreglass boat bits uses brown parcel tape then puts turtle wax on it as a releasing agent
not sure how that would get on with concrete?
Hood
I am obsessed.
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The scale I got for the POS tailstock cost me £17 from Amazon, I see they are now £30 plus but I am sure if you keep an eye out they will be back to £17 at some point.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I was considering using the couple of cheap rolls of duct tape I just bought from Lidl...
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This one has a data out, unfortunately you would have to drill the case to get the cable out! Aldi ones have a cover over the data out . The length of the scales would be the limiting factor IMHO, mounting accurately I don't think would be a problem as long as you can attach /make brackets.
James1979
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I think he likes the parcel tape as its shiny and smooth
daleyd
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Soap oil is the official version, it stinks and it was the smell of my childhood (my dad was a shuttering joiner, he came home every day stinking of the stuff !!)
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Tallow is also very good.
Agroshield
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Araldite a piece of aluminium to it and drill that. Softer and less chance of an error.
Melvyn Best
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Clingfilm works well with fibreglass, it might work well with concrete if it isn’t too fragile
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Finished my croquembouche.
View attachment 292992
Stands about 12" tall, it would have been bigger but I got a bit peckish while I was assembling.
It looks like the centre piece of a California Crisp making cocktail party .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I too like the idea of using a new metal caliper . For those with the carbon fibre ones would superglue on perfectly de painted , roughed & cleaned surfaces suffice ?
Of the metal one , maybe warm the stick once it's been removed from the sensor , carefully peel the scale off the stick , heat the end of the stick to dull red and let it cool naturally it should anneal the hardened stainless steel enough for you to drill & tap or just drill it. Take the burrs of , polish it with Brasso & some thick card , wash it in acetone / petrol etc. to remove anything that will cause abrasive crud to stick to it ..reassemble & fit .
Refitting the scale accurately is not so critical as you can set zero / reset zero in any position as well as flick between metric or imperial .
What suprises me most is that the magnet doesn't interfere with the caliper. Great Idea.Well not today but just before I collected the Centec.
Following on from @Hood putting a DRO on his tailstock I invalidated the Lidl guarantee
View attachment 292916
Then did a bit more to it, fitted a magnet from an old hard drive and made a clamp!
View attachment 292919
So it fits like this
View attachment 292917
View attachment 292918
