Stuff you have made today

[James1979]

This is a bit like that but as there’s 4000 to do I would hope I can refine it in the first few hundred!!

 

[DAPPH]

Not made, but fixed. Next door neighbours go Litter picking. The grabbers break. I fix them, The one today was a pin lost from the trigger. It took me longer to print my 'FIXED BY DAVE' sticker than it did to put a bolt in it. I don't charge them. I make noise, they don't complain.

I've recently 3D designed & printed a trigger in ABS - T for my litter picker / extended picking device .
I measured a bright steel nail for the pin which was a tad bigger than the pin I took out . So I ended up drilling the pinhole to the nail diameter , chopped the nail leaving the head & tapered the free end a fraction then carefully peened it over with a ball pene pin hammer

This time it's been done in 70% density and is far stronger than the old broken original cast part . It took two attempts the first print was a fraction too wide for the channel it fits in ( I'd forgotten the takeoff 0.68 mm for clearance ) and it was a bit too short for a decent pull with my fingers as it was only 50 mm long ( Now 80 mm long ) . Next project for the picker when I've less to do is a couple off line/guide pullies and a full complement of the jaws & magnet retainer plus a nice meaty handle .
It was a tad tight after I'd strung it back up , but a squirt of WD40 every where loosened everything perfectly.

 

[DAPPH]

Few more things that has had me entertained.

View attachment 297646


View attachment 297648

Couple of Hammers, both heads were loose on the shafts.
Both had nails forced in against the soft metal wedges to try and keep them tight.

So both had the nails removed, shafts cleaned up. Heads were cleaned with a bench grinder wire wheel.
The hole in the head was cleaned up, then 80grit paper was used to give a rough surface.
New Hardwood wedges made, then the heads refitted.

View attachment 297647

This 1/2" hand masonry drill has had a good deal of use.
Blunt, head mushroomed and a damaged flute.

View attachment 297653

I had time so why not.

View attachment 297655

I even redressed the tip. The information was in a Home improvement book, from the 1950's.

This square was one of those small jobs that was done to fill in time between the others.

View attachment 297658

The is the best side. The other was covered in white paint. That was easily removed with modern paint stripper. But the blue paint was some sort of Hammer finish, added in it's life.

Hot caustic dip had that off, then a clean up of the blade with a brass wire brush. The square faces had the rust removed with 800 grit wet and dry on a glas sheet.

View attachment 297659

All done. Just a few more coats of hard wax needed.

Ardy ,
I have a 5 kg tub of caustic pearls . what is the ratio of boiling water to your caustic that you use ? Do I take it that you drop the caustic into cold water then it heats up due to thermo reaction and then you bring it to a boil .....is that correct? .

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Ardy ,
I have a 5 kg tub of caustic pearls . what is the ratio of boiling water to your caustic that you use ? Do I take it that you drop the caustic into cold water then it heats up due to thermo reaction and then you bring it to a boil .....is that correct? .

Fill the container with water so the depth of the water is half as much of the height of the item to strip.

So a 100mm high item with need a depth of 150mm.

Add the caustic until it starts to stopped being absorbed, in tepid water. Add tepid water until the caustic t is dissolved.

Add the item and warm.

Test the paint removal by rubbing a blunt plastic tool.

Then wash in warm water.


Simplz.

 

[DAPPH]

Made a scythe for mowing the ditches and other areas around the yard, dislike firing up the weed whacker and much prefer this.

Norweigan carbon steel blade, homemade snath in eastern european fashion with a single handle and wedge style attachement. I need to work on the handle ring yet, didn't get it the proper size for the snath (which is hand carved so not perfectly round or straight all the way). Had to resort to some shims to make it fit for now. I have made it so you turn the handle to tighten the ring around the snath. The idea is you will be able to easily move the single handle to where you want it without tools. I might make it into a two handle setup yet though.

Had to reinforce the snath, it broke more than once. Fir isn't the ideal material... But cheap and light. I should probably weld up the whole side, would look better.

Circa 1955... At the local blacksmiths the smith used 5/16 ( 8mm ? ) foot ( 300 mm ) long split pins that he reheated to make a big eyed split pin then put a Whitworth thread on the now reclosed split pin leg ends s . The ring would go over the snaith and some thread would poke out the drilled & counter sunk handle then pop the nut on and wind it down into the the counter sunk handle . Often the guys with the scythes had two side handle on the scythe some 30 degrees off set from each other especially if they were cutting hay by-hand or scything out the ditches to get lesser quality hay stack covering materials.
. IIRC there was a big thick penny washer directly against the snaith too .
Their snaith had bends in them so that they twisted slightly around their hips with the thin end slightly up & forward of the straight stick scythes. To get the twisted shaft a long thick coppiced willow was cut , debarked , roughly smoothed with a pull knife then slid inside several 600 mm long clay land drain pipes that ran water all year for 14 days or so to get them super pliable , then it was pegged with big round pegs & blocks of wood & wedges on to a big old felled tree trunk that had an adzed face

Some Blacksmiths used steaming tubes to make the willows / ash pliable , but old Mr Wellborne was a Blacksmith from the late 1880's .
The snaiths were usually willow or ash , can't remember if it was green or seasoned wood that he had stood up in his blacksmiths shop . , . Then they were taken out and set with big wooden pegs onto a wooden railway sleeper to get the right bend then left for a week or more to dry out naturally when they got sanded & coated in linseed oil .

I watched Mr Wellborne measure my dad for a scythe fitting & telling him when it would be ready . He also put a grass nail in the blade and had it anchored to a round clamp on the lower part of the snaith ..the grass nail deflected long cut grass to fall nicely for turning to hay a few days later after the mowers had cut the field .
IIRC Later to the end of the 1950's a factory made snaith appeared at the farm ..made by Ewel ( ? ) but the Blacksmith still did the fittings .

Dad could sharpen a scythe bade with medium grade round or ovulid smooth rub-stones of carborundum so good that you could stick a copper penny by its edge to the blade edge just by gently pushing it on to the edge .. if it didn't stick it wasn't sharp .

 

[Farside]

A while ago I bought a pair of cheap Black&Decker style Workmates, in a 2fer1 deal. It occurred to me they'd be useful for quite a few things, balancing wheels being one of them.



[video=youtube_share;ybDoVI6lUJ4]

[video=youtube_share;8wWwso2f_lE]

 

[Blobber]

Thats a nice tale about the scythes daphh, thanks for sharing, we have a load of willow on our patch and Ive often thought how nice and straight a lot of it grows, I might have to do something with it now reading that!

 

[RichardM]

So I bought this lump of 6082T6 couldn't find anything suitable at the scrappers

Now I just need to make some holes through it to be able to bolt it to the table.

Holes one side drilled, counter-bored and faced.


Other side done and faced. Then dialed in and clamped to the table.

Cheating strip clamped to the table and first dovetail cut.

Turned over and second dovetail cut.



Now you can see what it's all for.

I've rounded the edges off but forgot to take a photo of that!
Tomorrows job is to cut the pockets for the clamps, drill and tap for the studs, make clamps and studs, but first I have to fab an angle plate to give me the 30 deg for cutting the pockets.

 

[Cheesie]

another kennel, have another 2 to finish for the same guy won't let me put up the finnished kennel

 

[Maker]

Fill the container with water so the depth of the water is half as much of the height of the item to strip.

So a 100mm high item with need a depth of 150mm.

Add the caustic until it starts to stopped being absorbed, in tepid water. Add tepid water until the caustic t is dissolved.

Add the item and warm.

Test the paint removal by rubbing a blunt plastic tool.

Then wash in warm water.


Simplz.

If you're not in a hurry, you don't need anything like a saturated solution, and it doesn't need to be heated. Of course it's so cheap you don't really save a lot by being stingey mixing up the solution but I had good results with probably about 200g in 20 litres, no heat just stood in the garden overnight. Rinse in clean water (Pressure wash if you're lazy) and then another night in citric acid does a fantastic job of stripping both paint and corrosion.

 

[AndersK]

Piling rocks, a bit of plumbing and a 13000 l/h pump.
Also first of two concrete rings settling.
My supervisor got bored and fell asleep

 

[DAPPH]

Thats a nice tale about the scythes daphh, thanks for sharing, we have a load of willow on our patch and Ive often thought how nice and straight a lot of it grows, I might have to do something with it now reading that!

Have a careful look at the hook fixing on the blade . IIRC it is slipped up inside a short tube rotated 90 degrees so it is pressing on & locating in a keeper plate that is bolted to the staithe just below the keeper ring with a small coach bolt and then a tapered square rounded on two edges lugged pin is tapped in from above to lock the blade tight & securely in place

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Fill the container with water so the depth of the water is half as much again of the height of the item to strip.

Fixed that for you?

 

[Kram]

Had these 250mm square delrin blank for a while. Jigsaw to rough cut the delrin round enough to fit lathe.

Used a peice of 90mm home cast aluminum with a 10mm hole as the pressure plate. 10mm-18mm shouldered pin with the centre in it to keep it from jumping out. First time I have used the face plate. Turned both peices round, next to measure up and cut a shoulder on each about 230mm.

 

[Memmeddu]

Repaired an Einhell string trimmer yesterday morning
Replaced
fuel lines
Spark plug
Fuel filter
Air filter
Carburettor (bigger than the original)
Adjusted the carb (four stroke at rev limiter)

I've needed a 2.5mm flat slotted screwdriver , didn't have one so I've made one, had to file an half 6013 electrode to solve the task .

Today I'll probably replace my right rear mirror on my car.
Bought an aftermarket one from Amazon and I'm pretty happy with it because it's like the original.
I was concerned about because in the picture looked different but bought it because was cheap

 

[bourbon]

I've recently 3D designed & printed a trigger in ABS - T for my litter picker / extended picking device .
I measured a bright steel nail for the pin which was a tad bigger than the pin I took out . So I ended up drilling the pinhole to the nail diameter , chopped the nail leaving the head & tapered the free end a fraction then carefully peened it over with a ball pene pin hammer

This time it's been done in 70% density and is far stronger than the old broken original cast part . It took two attempts the first print was a fraction too wide for the channel it fits in ( I'd forgotten the takeoff 0.68 mm for clearance ) and it was a bit too short for a decent pull with my fingers as it was only 50 mm long ( Now 80 mm long ) . Next project for the picker when I've less to do is a couple off line/guide pullies and a full complement of the jaws & magnet retainer plus a nice meaty handle .
It was a tad tight after I'd strung it back up a squirt of WD40 every where loosened everything perfectly.

What would be the cost of 3d printing a handle please? I normally use a bolt for the pivot as it's more easily replaced if I need to. Easiest ones to fix are these.

 

[MattF]

What would be the cost of 3d printing a handle please? I normally use a bolt for the pivot as it's more easily replaced if I need to. Easiest ones to fix are these. View attachment 297988

How on gods earth do you manage to wear one out? Mine's had some right use & it's still good.

 

[James1979]

How on gods earth do you manage to wear one out? Mine's had some right use & it's still good.

it’s still good. 10 new handles and 5 new jaws

 

[roblane65]

Few more things that has had me entertained.





View attachment 297655

I even redressed the tip. The information was in a Home improvement book, from the 1950's.

This square was one of those small jobs that was done to fill in time between the others.

Whats the name and purpose for this type of chisel , I picked one up a while ago at a car boot mainly just for the steel
I'd never seen one before and i've been in the building game 35+ years

 

[James1979]

I only know them as a masonry drill. Hit. Turn. Hit. Turn.

Rawl sold them. I have a couple of my dads old ones. Handy if you hit a solid bit or a stone in a wall and the battery drill struggled.