Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[daedalusminos]

The Prusa MK3S kit build is a joy, excellent instructions just take your time. The other good thing about the MK3S is that it works right out of the box and that means more time printing and less time tweaking/upgrading.

Having said it works right out of the box, mine had an intermittent fault with the main board, support were very helpful, I was chatting to them at midnight on a couple of occasions - the only problem is they're focused on build errors rather than component faults.

 

[Agroshield]

On the container storage idea (we could call it Felixstowe), would something like this work?



This is sized for SATCO ones. 180mm x 120mm internally with 25mm corner radius, 2mm main structure and 50mm high. They are stackable.

The lids have a tab on the corner, hence the tripod version. I have some lids left-tabbed, some right-tabbed hence the two versions.

The FreeCAD model is parametric (length, width, corner radius, thickness, height) so it is just a matter of changing the above numbers to generate a different size, height, or member thickness.

 

[DAPPH]

A Prusa i3 Mk3s+

I want to build it, then let it prove itself for a while, then look at making an enclosure.

I bought the i3 due to the range of materials it can print so I think an enclosure will be important. I will need to keep the temperature stable but also control the smells without venting to outside so will have to look at a carbon filter & hepa. I want to be able to control the temperature to an extent so a combination of recirculation with a switched bleed for when it starts to get too warm.

I also need the printer to be quiet so I will look at how I construct the enclosure to reduce noise brake-out. I could make the enclosure from plasterboard with a wooden frame or possibly go the mutts nuts with insulated steel panels to absorb the noise.

I need to learn to walk before I run though as the semi-temperature controlled enclosure will need thermometers with a temperature controller, fan and recirculation to venting switch over, and all requiring me to do some electricery so a big learning curve in addition to the 3d printing.

I want the printer to make functioning parts so I will need to understand the best materials for certain uses, but I also want to learn to used threaded inserts, pivot pins, springs etc to produce good, functioning stuff.

Looking forward to getting up and running, and I am sure I will be back asking lots of questions as I progress.

Read the manual half a dozen times and identify each part each time you read. being very familiar with things and how they assemble will pay you dividends .

I happened to leave out the shield over the vertical screws that help prevent whiskers of filament jamming the stepper motors, did a cheats partial strip down to put them in place once I'd realised it . Having the printer on a very thick solid base in a strong closeable cabinet with a Perspex front helps tremendously in getting a stable platform inside a stable environment for quality printing .

Designed by me using old fashioned technical drawing getting B&Q to cut up an 8x 4 sheet of construction ply allowing 3,5 mm for saw cuts , plenty of 50 mm turbo screws and some decent self expanding wood glue ,
The grey formica covered on all surfaces shelf is an end of line clearance sale Schreiber shelf @ £4 all the layers got a smearing of the expanding wood glue to gain maximum strength that would not twist with changes to humidity

Note the seven layers of the ply, this is called a balanced ply which helps prevent it warping, if you put them at 90 degree to each other the strength and warping prevention is at maximum

The Perspex sheet eventually sits in four L shaped runners screwed to the side walls so I can slide the sheet in / out as & when needed .
The cabinet is heated by two compact 7 watt CFL's wired in parallel , average working temp inside the closed up cabinet is 32 oC getting up to 38 oC during the 40 oC summer . If the printer has not been used for a few weeks I preheat the cabinet with the heater lamps for three or so hours to not only warm it up but to remove a lot of humidity absorbed in the open reel of plastic filament . Being a so thick & heavy cabinet the printer is really quiet and there is no noticeable fumes when the door is slid closed .

 

[Onoff]

The Anycubic i3 Mega S works straight out of the box tbh, just has lots of scope for worthwhile upgrades and learning along the way.

When your workshop floor is the cold flags of the patio and your bench a concrete step, once the light fades and you can feel the cold in you bones it's time to come in. New printer base, starting to slot it, some filing required:

 

[Dr.Al]

Thanks for the replies folks, I can't wait to get started.

I agree about the drought being a potential problem which I why I thought a recirculating system may be better. I will be asking for advice during my design stage of the enclosure as I am sure it will make an interesting project. I used to design ovens and spray booths so I did think of a small internal duct system as I could make any grills and dampers on the printer.

I like the sound off the MMU system but when I was first looking at a printer about 4 years ago (I think Prusa were just changing from Mk2.5 to the Mk3 at the time) I believe they were experiencing a number of glitches - have these been ironed out now?

I look forward to getting going and sharing my experiences.

If you haven't already got one, go and order one of these: https://amzn.to/3VqmREA - the Prusa kit comes with loads of M3 cap screws and it saved loads of time having a 2.5 mm hex screwdriver rather than having to use a conventional Allen key. I keep mine mounted on the printer as it's handy for the odd maintenance job as well.

You won't regret getting the Prusa. Once you've got it set up nicely with the z height tuned in, it's pretty much fire and forget. Mine isn't in an enclosure. I'm sure I'll get round to making one at some point (particularly if I ever feel the need to print ABS/ASA). Most of what I do is PETG and I've never had a problem with it just sitting in the corner of the dining room.

 

[Pete.]

I needed to replicate this spring clip. It's from my motorbike it's the clip that holds the lid fasteners on the puncture repair kit, and the tool tray too.



After many different designs I came up with these, which only work if they are printed on their side like this:

The LED lighting does not do them justice, they are much tidier than they appear.

 

[Onoff]

I'm making a hash of this bottom cover. Should have been 8 dia slots but I cocked it up from the get go. Centre punched the holes using a tap as all I had to hand. The 3mm pilot wandered a bit though the 8mm drill was sharp. I should have re-scribed the lines between the drilled holes...but didn't as I can be an impulsive git and cut to the scribed lines that were slightly off. I was cutting knelt outside on the floor/step as a bench using a torch to illuminate the cut line. Consequently some slots might be wider than 8mm. Still cleaning the slots up! I really could have done better.

Oh well, I've another lid off a 200L drum if not happy with this.

 

[Screwdriver]

I have a louvre press tool if that helps...

 

[Onoff]

I have a louvre press tool if that helps...

Very possibly! These slots are nom 70 long X 8 dia. Tbh, after some more tidying with the jigsaw, file & Dremel I'll probably get away with it though some might be 9 'ish wide. Balls ache with decent bench space etc.

I recall our EITB lecturer saying we should be able to hacksaw to within 20thou. That and the bloody billet we had to file to a 2" cube.

 

[Agroshield]

tidying with the jigsaw, file

Have a look at JSK-Koubou's latest YT. He makes a sanding adaptor for a jigsaw blade that might work well here. His is wood, glued onto the blade but you could 3DP one.

 

[redlig]

Very possibly! These slots are nom 70 long X 8 dia. Tbh, after some more tidying with the jigsaw, file & Dremel I'll probably get away with it though some might be 9 'ish wide. Balls ache with decent bench space etc.

I recall our EITB lecturer saying we should be able to hacksaw to within 20thou. That and the bloody billet we had to file to a 2" cube.

Our test piece was a 1" cube that had to fit a 1" square hole in a 1" piece of steel in all 6 plains , all hand filed. That's when I assumed the name "failed perfectionist".

 

[Onoff]

Our test piece was a 1" cube that had to fit a 1" square hole in a 1" piece of steel in all 6 plains , all hand filed. That's when I assumed the name "failed perfectionist".

My first turned piece was the "stepped shaft". I'd only used a wood lathe up until then. Suffice to say it was that rough it looked like it had been made with a gas axe. There's a thread on here somewhere about what EITB bits we've still got left.

 

[Dev]

Have a look at JSK-Koubou's latest YT. He makes a sanding adaptor for a jigsaw blade that might work well here. His is wood, glued onto the blade but you could 3DP one.

I get frustrated with his videos sometimes. Some of his ‘DIY’ solutions use parts so expensive I wonder if it doesn’t end up being more than the cost of the real thing.

 

[Onoff]

Have a look at JSK-Koubou's latest YT. He makes a sanding adaptor for a jigsaw blade that might work well here. His is wood, glued onto the blade but you could 3DP one.

I did think about mounting one of the Dremel clones on a small table.

 

[ajlelectronics]

 

[Onoff]

That's it, no more playing with these slots! It'll get holes drilled, rivnuts fitted then cut in half to aid fitting. Got to hack a neat square out for the fan. Nothing some high build primer won't hide after it's been derusted:

The things we do for our kids!

 

[ukracer]

That's it, no more playing with these slots! It'll get holes drilled, rivnuts fitted then cut in half to aid fitting. Got to hack a neat square out for the fan. Nothing some high build primer won't hide after it's been derusted:

View attachment 378457

The things we do for our kids!

I am confused? But there again I have just come in from workshop and cut a coule of thousand square felts today...lol. Absolutely knackered..

I am however taking a few days off now kids are off school and my son has another week left.

 

[Onoff]

I am confused?

Nothing to be ashamed about nowadays...

It's the new base for his printer with a bigger fan.

 

[Onoff]

Big square cut out, nom 1.5mm bigger all round than the fan. Starting to clean the metal up. Got some etch primer and high temperature black spray somewhere that might do. Waiting for M5 nutserts to finish it off. Lad also has to print a bracket to hold the fan onto the panel. Getting there:

 

[Olderisbetter]

After a bit of youtube viewing i think my next print will be the upgrades for the endor 5 pro, the arms to stop the bed bouncing look good