Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[Dev]

https://www.mbfg.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol-ipa.html as well

RS do it as well. For twice the price of course.

 

[daedalusminos]

Regards cleaning the print sheets, where do you guys get the IPA from? Do any highstreet type shops sell it?

I buy mine from Farnell in aerosol:

https://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/ppc103/solvent-ipa-aerosol-400ml/dp/1206535?gclid=CjwKCAiA2fmdBhBpEiwA4CcHzYJV-_M030L786IApdPUP6Dnx5jAKLr1jjxhMHbmlniGjm6gps2w8xoC7-MQAvD_BwE&mckv=_dm|pcrid||plid||kword||match||slid||product|1206535|pgrid||ptaid|&CMP=KNC-GUK-GEN-SHOPPING-PMAX-Medium_ROAS-Test990&gross_price=true

Obviously a slight premium for aerosol but it's convenient - I spray it direct on to the bed and wipe off with lint free cloth

 

[Dev]

Hot soapy water and dried with kitchen Roll is just as good as IPA to be honest.

 

[Dr.Al]

Hot soapy water and dried with kitchen Roll is just as good as IPA to be honest.

Probably better, but IPA is quick

 

[Screwdriver]

If you use PVA/gluestick/hairspray for bed adhesion, water is the best solvent to clean up a removable bed. With a little bit of soap.

Once fully dry a quick wipe down with IPA will help keep it grease free before applying hairspray (in my case).

 

[Screwdriver]

Well the printer is together and I hope I have calibrated it correctly. I printed the batman logo first to check the first layer adhesion, which seemed to work, and then the tree frog, which again came out reasonable.

I to learn the slicing software now and also learn the ins and outs making good usable prints. I also need to get some PETG on order as I currently only have silver and orange PLA.

Regards cleaning the print sheets, where do you guys get the IPA from? Do any highstreet type shops sell it?

By the way, I had one of the small screwdriver sets already. It actually came from B&M bargains and was about £5 when I got it. I think they still stock them but a pound or two more. It doesn't include the extension but it worked a treat putting the printer together. I also had a set of the cheap jewelers screwdrivers. They were useful for scraping out the slots and recesses for screws and nuts so I will keep them handy for my own creations.

I bought the printer on a bit of a whim really as I don't have anything specific in mind for it, but something I have fancied for a few years. I bought it on prusas black Friday/cyber Monday deal so it included an extra roll of PLA, a textured sheet and free delivery.

So, now I need to find some things to make (not really ornaments or trinkets) to justify my purchase!

One thing I am thinking of is getting together some construction parts. I will start another thread on that so I can avoid hogging this thread, and on that note I will include an image of the tree frog to keep on topic!

Thanks again for the help folks.

View attachment 380393View attachment 380394

You got lucky with that! Looks like your "skirt" has not stuck to the bad at all, let alone to itself. One of the foot pads has also lifted slightly. That indicates not enough squish due to too high nozzle. I recommend you have a good go as setting your bed level so that the first layer gets squashed down firmly to the bed and the filament sticks to itself to form a firm layer.

If it's not bed height (although I think it is) then it may be your first layer is too fast or the extrusion rate too low.

 

[Dr.Al]

If you use PVA/gluestick/hairspray for bed adhesion, water is the best solvent to clean up a removable bed. With a little bit of soap.

Once fully dry a quick wipe down with IPA will help keep it grease free before applying hairspray (in my case).

Note that for PLA & PETG, nothing should be added to the bed for adhesion with the prusa plates.

 

[Screwdriver]

Note that for PLA & PETG, nothing should be added to the bed for adhesion with the prusa plates.

Cool. I don't have a Prusa so I refer to my Ender3 which has a glass plate (ceramic coat??) and the biggest problem I had initially was getting models off the plate as it sticks too well!

I destroyed a bed cover plate once when the plastic had become solidly welded to the surface.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Cool. I don't have a Prusa so I refer to my Ender3 which has a glass plate (ceramic coat??) and the biggest problem I had initially was getting models off the plate as it sticks too well!

I destroyed a bed cover plate once when the plastic had become solidly welded to the surface.

Top tip for stuck models...

Put the model and glass plate in the freezer for a few hours.

 

[Dev]

Note that for PLA & PETG, nothing should be added to the bed for adhesion with the prusa plates.

On the contrary - for PETG you might want to add Something as a barrier and use the textured sheet as PETG adheres to the PEI coating on the bed REALLY tenaciously. Same goes for TPU - the flexible filament.

From the Prusa site:

Flexible steel sheets (guidepost) | Prusa Knowledge Base

The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a…

help.prusa3d.com

Removing prints​

To remove the printed object from the print surface, always wait until the steel sheet cools down to room temperature. Then you can take it off by bending the sheet inwards and outwards, but you may have to assist using a spatula to avoid damage to the sheet. For materials like PETG, ASA, ABS and PC Blend, and/or prints with a large first layer surface, a separation layer in the form of gluestick may be required.

 

[Screwdriver]

Top tip for stuck models...

Put the model and glass plate in the freezer for a few hours.

This was some time ago when I first started. The very FIRST thing I ever did with my brand new, right out of the box Ender3 was to score a massive trench in the glass bed. Oh how I laughed... Got my Z height wrong by about a quarter of an inch.

Come a long way since then and I now swear by hairspray as a bed adhesion and release agent. Not had a problem since I started using it.

 

[Dr.Al]

On the contrary - for PETG you might want to add Something as a barrier and use the textured sheet as PETG adheres to the PEI coating on the bed REALLY tenaciously. Same goes for TPU - the flexible filament.

From the Prusa site:

Flexible steel sheets (guidepost) | Prusa Knowledge Base

The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a…

help.prusa3d.com

Ah, yes: that's probably true with some sheets. I was assuming picking the best sheet for the filament. In particular, the satin sheet for PETG, which lives permanently on my bed & needs nothing adding for PETG.

If you use a different sheet or something other than PETG, some additives may be required.

Satin steel sheet | Prusa Knowledge Base

The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a…

help.prusa3d.com

 

[Pete.]

I print petg onto blue scotch tape. I did once print it only the flexi-cover but thankfully the print failed on the brim but I still had to spend time scraping it off with a stanley blade.

 

[Dev]

It’s fine on the textured sheet which has the added benefit of a really nice surface finish.

 

[Dr.Al]

It’s fine on the textured sheet which has the added benefit of a really nice surface finish.

Ditto the satin sheet

 

[Onoff]

Borosilicate glass here for PETG with 3D Lac.

 

[Migmac]

I didn’t print it. This stuff is way above my understanding. The cylinder is used to allow you to unscrew the firing pin mech from a rifle bolt. It’s still to be assembled. The long hex tube is for compressing the spring on a firing pin which then gives you access to a small pin which holds everything together

 

[clift_d]

Alcohol sanitiser spray also seems to work okay for me with the satin bed and PETG.

 

[oddbob]

 

[MattF]

Saddo warning.





New cable cover for the printer. Upped the width, this time round. Allows a bit more room for the cabling.