Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[ukracer]

I don't have a modem as such ,that's old tech ?????

I didn't know you could turn part of the router off, View attachment 382305
All I have is three yellow sockets on the back back which I presume are places to plug things in or hard wire out to something several yards away . Biggered if I know what the two green and the grey socket are for , I wasn't here when it was installed neither did the Shell Energy guy who set things up leave any paper work for the router .

Help me out here please , have I got this right ?

Orange socket is broadband signal in from the line termination & decoder box ?
It carries internet & broadband services such as TV to the router ?

The router ( pictured above ) has it's own internal modem to give local WI-FI & internet connection , the yellow sockets for screened data plugs & cables to take broadband internet to devices when plugged in .
The one in place in the yellow strip with the green light on runs the skybox TV

I don't know what the blue socket is for ..... Guessing ...it's for a HDMI cable ?.


Tis getting cofusidddily this elektrickery thing these days , having a decaying addled brain is not helping either.

Running a properly terminated 9 at both ends ) cable from the yellow socket up in the roof void and down to the other computer broadband input socket is what I should be aiming for without these mesh boxes etc in the wiring ?

You can place a super hub into modem mode.
But is yours not cable?

That blue plug is more likely a USB socket.

But as I only have cable I will let the experts tell you what you have got there...

 

[Onoff]

Tbh the PLA screw form isn't perfect. My lad reckons it's because as it prints, one side isn't being cooled quick enough. The cooling fan on the hot end exits one side.

However...with a Sharpie doubling as a milling cutter...it works!

"Cutting":

https://flic.kr/p/2odgw4i

The finished article. The groove only needs to go a little way around a 34mm dia shaft:

https://flic.kr/p/2ode3vK

The big question is will a 3mm cutter cut a 3x3 slot in stainless?

 

[My Old Landy]

Tbh the PLA screw form isn't perfect. My lad reckons it's because as it prints, one side isn't being cooled quick enough. The cooling fan on the hot end exits one side.

However...with a Sharpie doubling as a milling cutter...it works!

"Cutting":

The finished article. The groove only needs to go a little way around a 34mm dia shaft:

The big question is will a 3mm cutter cut a 3x3 slot in stainless?

I should think a solid carbide cutter would quite easily

 

[Onoff]

I should think a solid carbide cutter would quite easily

Do you reckon I could do this in an ordinary pillar drill?

 

[My Old Landy]

Do you reckon I could do this is an ordinary pillar drill?

The purists will have a fit at the merest suggestion of using a pillar drill. If its all you have then give it a go! If you want to come to Lincolnshire I have a mill that you can use

 

[Dr.Al]

I'm certainly not an expert, but I'll try to answer some of the questions...

I don't have a modem as such ,that's old tech ?????

It might be old tech, but I've still got one (an ADSL modem that provides broadband internet over a phone cable). Where we live, that's the only option - there's no fibre to premises or any other cable varieties.

I didn't know you could turn part of the router off,

It's usually an option in the configuration panel, but you have to figure out how to get to that if you don't have a manual. Often a case of pointing your web browser at http://192.168.0.1 , but the address varies.

View attachment 382305
All I have is three yellow sockets on the back back which I presume are places to plug things in or hard wire out to something several yards away . Biggered if I know what the two green and the grey socket are for , I wasn't here when it was installed neither did the Shell Energy guy who set things up leave any paper work for the router .

I would imagine the reddy orange socket is the connection to the outside world (presumably some sort of fibre or cable interface as it doesn't look like a phone cable). The yellow sockets will be for internal wired connections (this is what I'd plug the mesh wifi thing into if I were adding mesh wifi). The blue socket is a USB socket that's probably used for upgrading the software/firmware in the device. No idea about the green and white ones.

Tis getting cofusidddily this elektrickery thing these days , having a decaying addled brain is not helping either.

Running a properly terminated ( at both ends ) cable from the yellow socket up in the roof void and down to the other computer broadband input socket is what I should be aiming for without these mesh boxes etc in the wiring ?

If you can get an ethernet cable from one of the yellow sockets to a computer's ethernet socket, then you should have an excellent connection.

 

[Onoff]

Did some rudimentary milling with some blocks of wood and a ball nosed cutter from a cheap Dremel esque set. Clamped to the pillar drill table against a straight edge. It didn't go well and chewed the plastic but proves the concept:

 

[My Old Landy]

Did some rudimentary milling with some blocks of wood and a ball nosed cutter from a cheap Dremel esque set. Clamped to the pillar drill table against a straight edge. It didn't go well and chewed the plastic but proves the concept:

View attachment 382363

View attachment 382364

Mate, come over and use my Centec. For the stainless go are you intending on placing it over the centre section? It will need to be clamped as I can see it just rotating. The idea is sound and looks like it will work a treat

 

[Screwdriver]

Did some rudimentary milling with some blocks of wood and a ball nosed cutter from a cheap Dremel esque set. Clamped to the pillar drill table against a straight edge. It didn't go well and chewed the plastic but proves the concept:

View attachment 382363

View attachment 382364

Interesting idea but I think you'd be better off with a worm drive and gear arrangement to make the part more stable. Plus you can adjust the gearing to give you much finer/stronger control and the worm drive will eliminate backlash.

 

[Onoff]

Mate, come over and use my Centec. For the stainless go are you intending on placing it over the centre section? It will need to be clamped as I can see it just rotating. The idea is sound and looks like it will work a treat

Thanks. A road trip to Lincolnshire, would I need a passport?

The theory is yes, to place the 34mm dia x 32mm long "tube" over the unthreaded plastic section. My thought was to Araldite it rather than clamp and take very small cuts until I reach 3mm deep. @Screwdriver mentioned doing it as a worm drive which makes sense. That's my lad's math problem to work out tonight!

 

[Screwdriver]

Thanks. A road trip to Lincolnshire, would I need a passport?

The theory is yes, to place the 34mm dia x 32mm long "tube" over the unthreaded plastic section. My thought was to Araldite it rather than clamp and take very small cuts until I reach 3mm deep. @Screwdriver mentioned doing it as a worm drive which makes sense. That's my lad's math problem to work out tonight!

To be clear, I don't mean drive that coarse 1:1 screw with a worm drive, I mean replace the coarse spiral drive with two worm driven gears (or one worm one screw). One for X one for Y.

You derive the spiral from the gear ratio and (I assume) you will want to drive the part linearly via a sliding square drive or perhaps a screw thread. Depends on how versatile it needs to be if you ever want to change the pitch or dimensions of the spiral

 

[pawsnizzy]

Enclosure and bezel for NTP clock in workshop.

 

[Onoff]

To be clear, I don't mean drive that coarse 1:1 screw with a worm drive, I mean replace the coarse spiral drive with two worm driven gears (or one worm one screw). One for X one for Y.

You derive the spiral from the gear ratio and (I assume) you will want to drive the part linearly via a sliding square drive or perhaps a screw thread. Depends on how versatile it needs to be if you ever want to change the pitch or dimensions of the spiral

It's a one off, never to be repeated job. Not quite sure I understand what you mean, I'll pass your comments onto my lad!

 

[My Old Landy]

Thanks. A road trip to Lincolnshire, would I need a passport?

Yes and make sure you have had all your shots

 

[Screwdriver]

It's a one off, never to be repeated job. Not quite sure I understand what you mean, I'll pass your comments onto my lad!

I mean it's a lot easier to make it a one off rather than have any adjustability to it.

You're ok with the rest of the waffle?

 

[Onoff]

You're ok with the rest of the waffle

Honestly, I've passed it over to my lad.

 

[DAPPH]

I'm certainly not an expert, but I'll try to answer some of the questions...

It might be old tech, but I've still got one (an ADSL modem that provides broadband internet over a phone cable). Where we live, that's the only option - there's no fibre to premises or any other cable varieties.

It's usually an option in the configuration panel, but you have to figure out how to get to that if you don't have a manual. Often a case of pointing your web browser at http://192.168.0.1 , but the address varies.

I would imagine the reddy orange socket is the connection to the outside world (presumably some sort of fibre or cable interface as it doesn't look like a phone cable). The yellow sockets will be for internal wired connections (this is what I'd plug the mesh wifi thing into if I were adding mesh wifi). The blue socket is a USB socket that's probably used for upgrading the software/firmware in the device. No idea about the green and white ones.

If you can get an ethernet cable from one of the yellow sockets to a computer's ethernet socket, then you should have an excellent connection.

Thankee Kindly .
Dave

 

[Onoff]

Going slightly off the 3D thing...not having a lathe set up here (can't even get to it)...

I'd there a height relationship generally between the chuck centre line and tool post?

Trying to figure how to attach the jig to the tool post. A T shaped thing?

 

[Screwdriver]

Not sure what you're asking but typically there will be a range of height adjustment in the toolpost so that you can set the tool tip to "centre height" then lock it off. That is quite critically important when turning.

The in/out relationship is of course controlled by the "cross slide" so that you can introduce the tool tip to the spinning workpiece while keeping the tip "on centre".

 

[Onoff]

Lad's just knocked this up. Self explanatory I hope, yellow is the workpiece.

Can be held in a lathe or mill:

A little concerned whether the printed nut will hold the workpiece on the M24 thread without the workpiece spinning when being cut.