- Thread starter Dr.Al
- Start date
I had an enquiry to print some intake trumpets to see if it was a viable alternative to composite construction.
This is 0.8 mm wall thickness, printed in Ultem 1010.
So fuel proof, incredible heat capability, strong, good flexural strength, but notoriously difficult to print successfully on most printers.
Fantastic material
Remarkably strong for such a thin section created on an FDM printer.
Printer is a Stratasys Fortus 450.
This is 0.8 mm wall thickness, printed in Ultem 1010.
So fuel proof, incredible heat capability, strong, good flexural strength, but notoriously difficult to print successfully on most printers.
Fantastic material
Remarkably strong for such a thin section created on an FDM printer.
Printer is a Stratasys Fortus 450.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Help , I'm having a serious brainfart courtesy of the kraken style virus thing .
I've drawn a couple of things in Fusion 360 , savedd tem and tried to export them to the Pruser slicer to prep for printing . Only prpnblem is I cant locate where thy were sent to once I clicked export onth fusion drawings
Can someone take me step by step of how to do it from the finished fusion 360 screen drawings please ?
My heads not taking something in at present .
Dave
I've drawn a couple of things in Fusion 360 , savedd tem and tried to export them to the Pruser slicer to prep for printing . Only prpnblem is I cant locate where thy were sent to once I clicked export onth fusion drawings
Can someone take me step by step of how to do it from the finished fusion 360 screen drawings please ?
My heads not taking something in at present .
Dave
Not really as it would be the blind leading the blind...BUT mine comes up with the option to open it in explorer after I export things.
Screwdriver
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I do that all the time.
Make up a dummy widget, export it and this time pay attention to where its going!
daedalusminos
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Open file in Fusion, right click on body to export, select 'save as mesh', complete settings in pop up and then select save location
Screwdriver
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The logic is: save any other model in Fusion and the program will use its default location. You do not know where your file is saved, therefore you have not changed that default location (deliberately) ergo wherever the <random> saved file goes will be where your lost file is waiting for you. All you have to do is pay attention to the popup menu next time you save something.
<edit> Many years ago I was fixing a sheared woodruff key on a mates gravel drive (an old BSA B40). Spent ages making a key out of an old nail head and dropped the barsteward while trying to fit it. Spent ages trying to find it...
Until I had a great idea. Drop the old broken key from the same spot and see where it goes. Incredibly, it worked! It pinged off some random part of the frame and landed right next to the precious new one several feet away...
<edit> Many years ago I was fixing a sheared woodruff key on a mates gravel drive (an old BSA B40). Spent ages making a key out of an old nail head and dropped the barsteward while trying to fit it. Spent ages trying to find it...
Until I had a great idea. Drop the old broken key from the same spot and see where it goes. Incredibly, it worked! It pinged off some random part of the frame and landed right next to the precious new one several feet away...
oddbob
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Is there a 'save as' option, rather just 'save' (I know nothing about Fusion 360)? ...that way you can choose where to put it.
Only after you save it thefirst time.... (I think) I know it does not make sense but that's why I remembered it happening.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Thankee kind Sir it was the save as mesh step I've not being doing .
Thanks
Dave
Dr.Al
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@DAPPH: you've mentioned prusaslicer, so note that in Prusaslicer, you don't need it to be a mesh (STL). Regardless of whether the model is for 3D printing or anything else, it's good practice to regularly save your models in STEP format (in case autodesk take fusion's free licence away or further restrict its features) - STEP files can be read by other CAD software so it gives you a safe backup. Prusaslicer can read STEP files directly, so there's not much point in saving STLs.
I don't think I've exported anything as STL since prusaslicer adding the STEP import feature.
PhillipM
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I've tried PCTG and I wouldn't say it's stronger - it tends to have much lower layer adhesion than PETG so even though it matches up as a virgin material it's properties drop a fair bit in an as-printed state. At best it matches PET-G in things, quite often it's a good 20% behind it for absolute strength and yield points.
I told you...it was on Facebook so it must be true.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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The new router extender to get the printer computer & printer driver updated arrived late this afternoon whilst we were out .. I'll be sorting it out tomorrow .
Had my second ball up of white ABS . a nine hour print died 20 or so min using the not yet up dated driver for the printer .
Tried a second attempt and noticed the famous Turkish toe shoe curl off the bed on the left-hand side as you view the printer. Could it be because the filament has been sat on the printer inside the wooden enclosure unused for 8 months or has something changed due to humidity so I now have not got the machine bed etc. set up properly ? Obviously when the internet is sorted and everything is updated & I reset everything and see what happens.
Had my second ball up of white ABS . a nine hour print died 20 or so min using the not yet up dated driver for the printer .
Tried a second attempt and noticed the famous Turkish toe shoe curl off the bed on the left-hand side as you view the printer. Could it be because the filament has been sat on the printer inside the wooden enclosure unused for 8 months or has something changed due to humidity so I now have not got the machine bed etc. set up properly ? Obviously when the internet is sorted and everything is updated & I reset everything and see what happens.
Pete.
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Those are nice but...
Printer is a Stratasys Fortus 450
They bloody well should be too at that price!
I'd want that thing to print my part, make me tea and tuck me in at night!
ajlelectronics
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It could; ABS needs to be dry, but it is a known issue regardless. It is caused by cooling gradients apparently. I made very few successful ABS prints for the same reason.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Couple more Denco coil like formers. I haven't gotten around to winding any yet mind, nor tapping it M3 and fitting a ferrite tuning slug.
These are in PLA. It's been suggested polystyrene is the material that's best as it's not lossy for RF. Seems our printer could potentially print HIPS but it's near it's temperature limits.
These are in PLA. It's been suggested polystyrene is the material that's best as it's not lossy for RF. Seems our printer could potentially print HIPS but it's near it's temperature limits.
Screwdriver
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Well it hasn't finished yet but by this time tomorrow...
...it will either look like this. "Magbase" wireless charger gravity powered iPhone station or a big birds nest....
I need a quicker printer. Not even tested the design yet!
You can view it here: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/stand-ec81ca048ee0412bbc94f303ece203a8
I have asked the forum bosses if we could have an inline 3d viewer. It's probably doable right now in BB Code so if anyone knows how, please share...
...it will either look like this. "Magbase" wireless charger gravity powered iPhone station or a big birds nest....
I need a quicker printer. Not even tested the design yet!
You can view it here: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/stand-ec81ca048ee0412bbc94f303ece203a8
I have asked the forum bosses if we could have an inline 3d viewer. It's probably doable right now in BB Code so if anyone knows how, please share...
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