iNf
Member
- Messages
- 380
- Location
- Hereford, England
- Thread starter Dr.Al
- Start date
Screwdriver
Member
- Messages
- 10,529
daedalusminos
Member
- Messages
- 2,207
- Location
- Norwich
A 'proof of concept' 150W heater for Jupiter resin printer. Nothing too clever, a resin printed case and heater shroud, an off the shelf heater, fan and STC1000 temperature controller...
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,702
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Yeah, alright...
daedalusminos
Member
- Messages
- 2,207
- Location
- Norwich
Soo just did some measurements with this...
9A at 24V so more like 200W. It heats the Jupiter from 12°C to 28°C in about 10mins (that's an independant sensor attached to the inside of the steel enclosure and is probably being affected by the colder air on the outside) though the heater is set to 32°C. The STC1000 thermistor is the silver cylinder mounted below the fan on the intake side.
I did also purchase a 250W heater....which if this is anything to go by would be 300W - it felt too toasty for the Jupiter (only need to get it to 25°C to 30°C).
I went 24V and the drawback is the PSU (I bought a 20A for some headroom) it's noisy when the fan cuts in.
In hindsight going 240V might have been a better option. What I am doing is fitting a thermal fuse as even though the elements are PTC they get pretty toasty if the fan fails.
Costs:
STC1000 £10
Heater and fan £22
PSU £18
Can't you stick the bambu in a container itself?
PhillipM
Member
- Messages
- 2,991
Nah I'd rather not, the electronics on the back won't like it much.
so if I get a bambu I cant put it in my cupboard?
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,235
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
I declared my Travel Toolchest Project finished back at the start of December, but that's not strictly true: I've still got to sort out holding the tools in drawers so they don't rattle around all over the place. As I've been in a bit of a workshop slump, not getting much done or feeling especially inspired, I thought I'd have a go at the (quite complex) CAD modelling for a 3D-printed liner for the first drawer.
This is the CAD model at the moment:
It needs work
Usually when doing this sort of thing, I'd print some very small cut-out bits that I could use to check dimensions and shapes, but this one had so many things I was uncertain about I just decided to print it as-is and try to fix all the various inevitable problems in one go.
It had to be split into two pieces to get it on the printer (the other, bigger drawers, will need four prints per drawer!), but I managed to get both pieces onto the bed at the same time so it could be printed in one go:
As I said, it's far from perfect, but the idea works.
The main thing that needs sorting is the dimensions of the slots for the marking gauges: they stay put (ish), but they don't drop down into the holes in the way I'd intended. Measuring the shape of things like this is a bit of a pain in the proverbial posterior, so I'm not surprised I got it wrong on the first attempt.
Now that I know what needs tweaking, I can do some prints of small sections of it (which will be quicker) to check the adjusted dimensions.
This is the CAD model at the moment:
It needs work
Usually when doing this sort of thing, I'd print some very small cut-out bits that I could use to check dimensions and shapes, but this one had so many things I was uncertain about I just decided to print it as-is and try to fix all the various inevitable problems in one go.
It had to be split into two pieces to get it on the printer (the other, bigger drawers, will need four prints per drawer!), but I managed to get both pieces onto the bed at the same time so it could be printed in one go:
As I said, it's far from perfect, but the idea works.
The main thing that needs sorting is the dimensions of the slots for the marking gauges: they stay put (ish), but they don't drop down into the holes in the way I'd intended. Measuring the shape of things like this is a bit of a pain in the proverbial posterior, so I'm not surprised I got it wrong on the first attempt.
Now that I know what needs tweaking, I can do some prints of small sections of it (which will be quicker) to check the adjusted dimensions.
Good grief mine would have been 8 days. Lol
The Good news is my wife has given me permissions to sell all my cutters and but one decent one.
Sell all my 3D printers and buy a Bambu.
Sell all the heat presses I have been using or fixing.
And she won't raid the funds for an alternative use........
Agroshield
Member
- Messages
- 5,450
Make the slots oversize, clingfilm the item, mould some epoxy putty into the slot, press in item. Perfect fit.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,235
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
It would have been 16 hours in my normal "0.2 mm QUALITY" setting, but I did this in "0.3 mm DRAFT" and it was a lot quicker. The draft setting has a much simpler (and quicker to print) infill as well as the thicker layer height, which helps a lot. When I do the final version, I'll probably go back to the quality setting. 16 hours isn't that bad really: I can set it running in the evening and it'll be done by the time I'm home from work the next day.
daedalusminos
Member
- Messages
- 2,207
- Location
- Norwich
