ajlelectronics
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Scimitar switch bezel for aftermarket switches.
- Thread starter Dr.Al
- Start date
PhillipM
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That's a 4 hour print on 200g of material, which is probably as fast or faster than most print normal PLA.
Got a bit of stringing at the end there there's a bit of a bug with my printer I'm trying to sort out with support - might just be a faulty SD card, got a new one on the way. It pauses for a few seconds on short layers before travelling, not so great for soft foam materials that ooze out. But it just pulls off the part easily so it's not really an issue atm.
It's not quite as fast as my other dual extruder printer I use for TPU, but then that one is setup only for flexibles like TPU and PTCPE and can't do stuff like abrasive materials, and is slow on normal materials because of the way the extruders are optimised for soft filaments, etc - but it's close enough I can run both in sync now and just unload and prep them in a staggered pattern.
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daedalusminos
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What shore TPU are you using?
You are lucky it reaches 80degrees. Lol
iNf
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Blimey how many do you have and how much room? When I made an admittedly 'made from whatever was lying around' enclosure it takes up soo much roomI was sad enough my new one only does 100 and not 120 like my others. I think less than that I'd be crying
150-160c is the plan for minimum on the next one
zx9
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I can smell burnt fingers in your future.I was sad enough my new one only does 100 and not 120 like my others. I think less than that I'd be crying
150-160c is the plan for minimum on the next one
JMS1972
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Try putting a bit of packing foam over the bed whilst it warms up. Speeds things up quite a lot.
Obviously you have to remove it before the print starts
skotl
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I have an enclosure for it, too - bought it for ABS but it's too big and clumsy so I took it off. Probably should put it back on...Try putting a bit of packing foam over the bed whilst it warms up. Speeds things up quite a lot.
Obviously you have to remove it before the print starts
daedalusminos
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One of the reasons I don't like PLA. The threads on this spool holder just decided to break even though they're not under any real force resulting in a failed TPU print due to excessive friction.
I redesigned (mainly because I no longer had the original design) but this time designed it for resin printing and incorporated a TR20x4 trapezoidal thread which printed surprisingly well.
I redesigned (mainly because I no longer had the original design) but this time designed it for resin printing and incorporated a TR20x4 trapezoidal thread which printed surprisingly well.
Screwdriver
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iPad stand. Well, more of a serving tray really, a fusion of metalwork and 3d printing.
It's supposed to fit like this:
So that you can have it at the desired angle (eagle eyed viewers will spot a vey early prototype design) but also satisfy two critical requirements:
1. has to be able to sit on your lap, table, bed, whatever
2. has to be pick uppable whilst still oriented at the desired angle
Hence the need for a super stiff aluminium (truck siding) tray to make it super strong.
Latest version:
Super happy with the most critical design element; the impossibly thin hinge!
The stand is 2.4mm thick so those two hinges (I designed to be print in place but still act like a zipper) have to be ridiculously thin. In fact it's only that thick to give clearance for the precious lens cluster which protrudes out the back.
The iPad Pro is a BEAST at 12.9 inches and I hate the idea of having to encase it in plastic for protection so I like to run mine naked.
Fits perfectly.
And fold down securely to a very comfortable angle for drawing.
The prop support holes are specifically angled to accept a purposely shaped bevel edged strut at varying angles.
I have been using a very similar design for my old iPad for years now and never been able to find anything that you can sit on your lap or move around carrying like a tray. Once settled down it also acts as a cup holder though I might design in a proper holder with an automatic flag indicator to remind you not to stand up (with a hidden cup of tea waiting like a booby trap...
As you can probably tell, I am super happy with this design and will be heading out to the shed to chop up some aluminium and play with the flypress.
It's supposed to fit like this:
So that you can have it at the desired angle (eagle eyed viewers will spot a vey early prototype design) but also satisfy two critical requirements:
1. has to be able to sit on your lap, table, bed, whatever
2. has to be pick uppable whilst still oriented at the desired angle
Hence the need for a super stiff aluminium (truck siding) tray to make it super strong.
Latest version:
Super happy with the most critical design element; the impossibly thin hinge!
The stand is 2.4mm thick so those two hinges (I designed to be print in place but still act like a zipper) have to be ridiculously thin. In fact it's only that thick to give clearance for the precious lens cluster which protrudes out the back.
The iPad Pro is a BEAST at 12.9 inches and I hate the idea of having to encase it in plastic for protection so I like to run mine naked.
Fits perfectly.
And fold down securely to a very comfortable angle for drawing.
The prop support holes are specifically angled to accept a purposely shaped bevel edged strut at varying angles.
I have been using a very similar design for my old iPad for years now and never been able to find anything that you can sit on your lap or move around carrying like a tray. Once settled down it also acts as a cup holder though I might design in a proper holder with an automatic flag indicator to remind you not to stand up (with a hidden cup of tea waiting like a booby trap...
As you can probably tell, I am super happy with this design and will be heading out to the shed to chop up some aluminium and play with the flypress.
daedalusminos
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Eventually managed to get round to incorporating a heat fuse in the enclosure heater to protect against overheat should the fan fail. Took a bit of trial and error, light grey cover in the background is the initial cover, then printed the black one with integral heat fuse holder. The problem was the air temperature at exit is about 115°C and the resin used for the black cover just softened and buckled so switched to the darker grey Siraya Tech Sculpt resin which has a heat deflection temperature of around 170°C, that coupled with a 133°C heat fuse worked fine with the fuse blowing within approx 10s after fan fail.
Screwdriver
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I don't normally print tat off Thingiverse but this caught my attention off one of those interminable "things you really want to print" YouTube channels.
www.thingiverse.com
Interesting design and while not a new design as such, some attention has been paid to making it work in plastic. And it's pretty damned decent too...
Hand-Screw Clamp by jakejake
This is a proof of concept of a new thread design which can make a hand-screw type clamp, commonly used in woodworking. It won't match the strength of an actual clamp, but I tried to make a clamp that was as strong as possible, with 100% 3d printed parts. For this, careful consideration needed...
www.thingiverse.com
Interesting design and while not a new design as such, some attention has been paid to making it work in plastic. And it's pretty damned decent too...
skotl
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The great thing about having a 3D printer isn't just that you can use it to make complex, new, otherwise-difficult-to-obtain items, but that you can also use it to address easy problems!
We have a rolling-week calendar in the kitchen that helps our family of three understand where everyone is over the next few days. The problem is that you can get good whiteboard markers without magnets, and rubbish markers with magnets.
So... how to combine the two?
Easy - three neodyne magnets, 15 minutes of PETG and some superglue gets us from this:
To this!
And they just friction fit to the end of the pens so I can reuse them when we replace the pens.
We have a rolling-week calendar in the kitchen that helps our family of three understand where everyone is over the next few days. The problem is that you can get good whiteboard markers without magnets, and rubbish markers with magnets.
So... how to combine the two?
Easy - three neodyne magnets, 15 minutes of PETG and some superglue gets us from this:
To this!
And they just friction fit to the end of the pens so I can reuse them when we replace the pens.
My Old Landy
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I love practical simple solutions to problems
Where do you get the quality pens from?
