- Thread starter Dr.Al
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skotl
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Hmmmm... I printed the above in PETG, which I've been using for about a month, and I might go back to PLA.
The printer (Ankermake M5) is super fast with PLA and would have printed that stand in 1 hr 20 minutes (100g of filament) but took 4 hrs 40 with PETG. Seems that this printer (other manufacturers are available...) won't do superfast on PETG. I think it's worth the dehydrating hassle with PLA to get the speed back, to be honest. I've also found that PETG lifts in the corners on large prints (heatbed is set to 80C) which hasn't been a problem with PLA.
The printer (Ankermake M5) is super fast with PLA and would have printed that stand in 1 hr 20 minutes (100g of filament) but took 4 hrs 40 with PETG. Seems that this printer (other manufacturers are available...) won't do superfast on PETG. I think it's worth the dehydrating hassle with PLA to get the speed back, to be honest. I've also found that PETG lifts in the corners on large prints (heatbed is set to 80C) which hasn't been a problem with PLA.
PhillipM
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Corner lifting on PETG is often either too much part cooling or it's not being printed hot enough and it's leaving too much residual stress in the extrusions - PETG is always a bit thick and sticky even when melted, it needs a lot more temperature than most people really use to go down and bond properly, otherwise it goes down like a stretched elastic band and pulls at the print.
Don't know why your printer is that slow though, the difference in speed with PETG vs PLA for me is generally only about 25-30%
Don't know why your printer is that slow though, the difference in speed with PETG vs PLA for me is generally only about 25-30%
My Old Landy
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I designed a different one yesterday and printed it overnight. Second picture shows them all loaded with paint etc.
sako243
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I haven't measured it but it's worth looking into some of the videos around the Topton motherboards. They've been reported to consume less power than Raspberry Pi's in use and offer far more capabilities.
I built a little server for the office using one and it's been great, Proxmoxx as the main OS then various VMs running things like pfsense for dns, VPN etc., some Atlassian software etc. It's a bit unfair to measure the power consumption in this situation because it's currently running far more than a Pi ever could.
skotl
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Yeah - I've got a NUC for home assistant so will likely buy another if the NAS works out. At the moment, it's cost me literally nothing as I had the SSDs and pi lying around so it's just to prove whether I need it (I'd rather not go back to having a bunch of servers in the house).
It's running OMV6, which seems decent.
PhillipM
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Was missing a couple of cupboard door stops, and it was faster to just print 'em in some PET-G than it was to actually go out and get some with the high flow nozzles these days
Made 'em a bit larger and sturdier than the intended ones too 'cause it's a pair of doors that everyone leans their weight against 'cause of the position,
Misterg
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Well, I just got this one (Elegoo Neptune 4):
I printed an adaptor ring that I’ve been fiddling with in F360.
I was impressed with the finish, but there are areas that don’t seem fused. (I was using the default temperatures, etc. from the slicer that came with it, so peering down the rabbit-hole of slicer settings at the moment!)
Took just over an hour to print.
This was only printed in PLA, but the final article will need to survive being outdoors, or under a car bonnet - What type of filament do people use for functional stuff? (I had presumed ABS, but PETG or ASA seem to be as good, but reportedly easier to print.)
Whatever it is, I need to get hold of some and get the printer dialled in.
I printed an adaptor ring that I’ve been fiddling with in F360.
I was impressed with the finish, but there are areas that don’t seem fused. (I was using the default temperatures, etc. from the slicer that came with it, so peering down the rabbit-hole of slicer settings at the moment!)
Took just over an hour to print.
This was only printed in PLA, but the final article will need to survive being outdoors, or under a car bonnet - What type of filament do people use for functional stuff? (I had presumed ABS, but PETG or ASA seem to be as good, but reportedly easier to print.)
Whatever it is, I need to get hold of some and get the printer dialled in.
ajlelectronics
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PETg will do what you ask and survive car interior type temperatures.
PhillipM
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PET-g is marginal in summer sun in a car, never mind under a bonnet, you want ASA or better really.
Your print issue is the pressure advance settings being out for the filament, you probably need to run some calibration prints. There's a little underextrusion too, turn the flow up a couple percent.
That matte surface generally means it was printed too cold for the speed too, if it was normal PLA.
Your print issue is the pressure advance settings being out for the filament, you probably need to run some calibration prints. There's a little underextrusion too, turn the flow up a couple percent.
That matte surface generally means it was printed too cold for the speed too, if it was normal PLA.
Misterg
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Thanks.
I haven't done any calibration yet - that's one of the rabbit holes that I'm staring down
I can see that there are options for various calibrations in the Orca slicer.The filament was Elegoo PLA+ It looks matt on the spool if that's of any relevance.
I think I'll get some PETG and get comfortable with it before moving onto the harder stuff.
PhillipM
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Honestly ASA prints more easily than PETG really - it's similar flow and behaviour wise to PLA, PET-g is sticky, stringy and needs slower speeds than either. I do have a lot of PET-G though I find it more useful than PLA for anything really.
The biggest problem with ASA are the fumes/smell and keeping it hot enough to stop it warping or cracking from cooling too quickly. I don't think you'll have too much trouble with that part geometery and a hot bed though, it's quite short, probably need a good brim on it, that's all.
Yes Orca has a pressure advance and flow calibration, run them both and set them up.
The biggest problem with ASA are the fumes/smell and keeping it hot enough to stop it warping or cracking from cooling too quickly. I don't think you'll have too much trouble with that part geometery and a hot bed though, it's quite short, probably need a good brim on it, that's all.
Yes Orca has a pressure advance and flow calibration, run them both and set them up.
, but is there a recommended brand of ASA or PETG? There seems to be a bewildering choice!
ajlelectronics
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Nope, not in my experience. Perhaps you are thinking of TPU? I printed a Benchy from silver PETg using the high speed Hyper PLA settings with a temperature tweak. It certainly stays on the build plate better and is available in far more colours than ASA, which some printers cannot handle at all. I have various bits of PETg around the car, including some thin trims and nothing moved during last year's high temperatures. I do accept that ASA is MORE high temperature stable though.
clift_d
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For something like that with a wide thin base, in PETG, I find that printing it with a 3mm brim helps reduce the risk of corners lifting part way through.
ajlelectronics
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Rounding base corners also helps with adhesion, where the design allows it.
PhillipM
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No, I don't mean TPU, I mean exactly what I said, ASA. Anything with a decent clean PEI bed shouldn't really have much issue with ASA until you get in to tall parts and warping from cooling, I don't think that's going to be much of an issue with that part.
I've printed loads of in car parts in PETg when I first started out - speaker adapters, stereo surrounds, cupholders, etc, for myself and friends. They all warped in the hot summer days, even baskets that were just holding tiny tweeters on the dash, etc.
I had to reprint the lot in fibre filled abs.
You *might* get away with PETg with CF filler, if it's a very lightly loaded part, as the CF fill raises the HDT under load 4-5c which could be enough for UK summers.
I wouldn't even dream of either of them underbonnet.
Hell I would be wary of ABS/ASA with underbonnet temps without fibre-fill in them to raise the HDT. Underbonnet temps are often in the 80c region.
ASA prints far more similarly to PLA in terms of flow dynamics than PETg - Petg has a high melt viscosity, the other two are fairly low. You just need to be able to hit enough temp for ASA that's all (255c-270c generally)
I've printed loads of in car parts in PETg when I first started out - speaker adapters, stereo surrounds, cupholders, etc, for myself and friends. They all warped in the hot summer days, even baskets that were just holding tiny tweeters on the dash, etc.
I had to reprint the lot in fibre filled abs.
You *might* get away with PETg with CF filler, if it's a very lightly loaded part, as the CF fill raises the HDT under load 4-5c which could be enough for UK summers.
I wouldn't even dream of either of them underbonnet.
Hell I would be wary of ABS/ASA with underbonnet temps without fibre-fill in them to raise the HDT. Underbonnet temps are often in the 80c region.
ASA prints far more similarly to PLA in terms of flow dynamics than PETg - Petg has a high melt viscosity, the other two are fairly low. You just need to be able to hit enough temp for ASA that's all (255c-270c generally)
