Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[ukracer]

It would have been 16 hours in my normal "0.2 mm QUALITY" setting, but I did this in "0.3 mm DRAFT" and it was a lot quicker. The draft setting has a much simpler (and quicker to print) infill as well as the thicker layer height, which helps a lot. When I do the final version, I'll probably go back to the quality setting. 16 hours isn't that bad really: I can set it running in the evening and it'll be done by the time I'm home from work the next day.

16 hours for a finished print is fine. It's when you are waiting to measure things that it becomes not so good.
Many people won't run a 3D printer when they sleep or are out the house.

My problem is time and multitasking. My time now is less than when I was at work.
For example I have to take number 1 grandson to school in the morning.
Look after number 2 as he is ill today and likely to be tomorrow.

My Dad wanted me to go to him after I drop kids at school to.put cream on his back and his moon sandles on as his cut slippers fall off and he can't reach to put candles on.
He has to do this as his shoes don't fit due to bandages put on by District nurses for his ulcerated legs.

But my wife has a lung xray for COPD at 10.15 . I can't do both.

But I can't utilise my brain or schedule and prepare 3D prints. (The multitasking part I can't do)

I went to the PC earlier and I have angry IP running and I can't think what I was looking for....lol

Oh and to top it all I thought I had a spot coming up in or outside my left ear. But I now suspect an infection as its been getting worse all day and no spot has appeared.

So.much more I could post but as its about managing to get 3D prints started , I will leave it at that...

 

[zx9]

Hum, I should have bought a Max.

Experimenting with spiral or vase printing, it is a semi circular underpot for the wall basket in the porch, wich is slightly undersize because I should have got a bigger bed.

I tested a smaller square version and it is holding water, printed in ABS with .8mm width through a .4mm extruder nozzle at 105% feed and .2mm layer height. Drawn in Fee CAD.

 

[Screwdriver]

Sell all my 3D printers and buy a Bambu.

An excellent choice (get it with the AMS unit). The Bambu is possibly the best investment/device I have ever purchased with the possible exception of my amazing Fazer Thou.

 

[ukracer]

An excellent choice (get it with the AMS unit). The Bambu is possibly the best investment/device I have ever purchased with the possible exception of my amazing Fazer Thou.

Ok I will fall for it. Lol
what's a Fazer Thou??

 

[daedalusminos]

Sell all my 3D printers and buy a Bambu.

But which Bambu?? The A1 is really good value but still a conventional bed slinger.

 

[Screwdriver]

Ok I will fall for it. Lol
what's a Fazer Thou??

 

[ukracer]

But which Bambu?? The A1 is really good value but still a conventional bed slinger.

Well I knew there was more than one but was going to do some research and find out what I need to spend.

 

[Screwdriver]

Well I knew there was more than one but was going to do some research and find out what I need to spend.

There can be only one: Bambu Carbon X1, AMS combo. ££££ worth it.

Anything else and you might as well buy a random Yamaha...

 

[knighty]

I used to have a prusa mk3, upgraded to a mk4 and I'm blown away by it

I've never had a failed print yet, must have 20 spools of ABS through it so far

it's really fast too..... really fast

 

[PhillipM]

There can be only one: Bambu Carbon X1, AMS combo. ££££ worth it.

Anything else and you might as well buy a random Yamaha...

Buy a P1S with the combo and save a few hundred quid for the sake of losing...a better camera and the lidar you don't really need.

 

[ukracer]

Can Screwdriver and PhillipM agree on the one I should buy.

 

[PhillipM]

The X1 has a few things:
Lidar to scan the first layer and check it, although it's a work in progress atm anyway, it can auto set filament pressure advance too - although often still needs a manual tweak.
It has hardened extruder gears and a hardened nozzle as standard, the P1S comes with stainless ones - they can be swapped out for about £30 later on the P1S if you decide you need hardened stuff.
The bed will do 110c instead of 100c -may be of interest but the P1S comes with a better gold PEI build plate as standard.
The camera is 30fps instead of 0.5fps - nice to have but doesn't really matter.
The case is aluminium instead of the plastic of the P1S (I don't think it's an upside, the P1S case insulates the chamber better and is a bit quieter because of it)
The toolhead and nozzle wiring connectors are a little different - the P1S being a later design has more robust connectors.
The X1 has a nice touchscreen instead of the little button controlled one on the P1 - doesn't really matter I find I use the app on my phone if I need to most of the time. You can get a screen upgrade for about £45 for it that will control up to 10 printers anyway.

A P1S is ~£450 cheaper.
They share the same motion system, they use the same input shaping system, they both flow the same at the hotend, etc. Anything the X1 can do the P1S can do bar that extra 10c on the bed.

 

[Screwdriver]

Can Screwdriver and PhillipM agree on the one I should buy.

Can't help sorry, I have a full house carbon X1 and while I hear the P1S is pretty damned good too, I have no experience of it.

I can tell you the engineering quality on the X1 is superb and I really don't know how they do it for the price. It was a toss up between the Bambu and a Voron, both are a similar price but the Voron is delivered in a bucket...

The Prusa models are also superb quality and serious workhorses. The Bambu is somewhat ironically, an ideal machine for the beginner.

 

[PhillipM]

I'd like a Prusa XL toolchanger - it's much faster at changing materials and can do a lot wider range of materials than the Bambu can as standard - but it's also nigh on 3k, delivery is about 8 months, takes a day or two to assemble and calibrate and they're still ironing a lot of stuff out.
Bambu you unbox it, hit the calibrate button, make a cuppa tea and you're good to just press print.

 

[ukracer]

Thanks both of you. I did think it was a bit difficult asking as I guess neither of you have (or even had) both models yet.

 

[PhillipM]

I had a play with an X1C but I just couldn't justify the money it commands over the P1S. You're halfway to another P1S for what the X1C commands these days.

Saying that there's rumours of an updated X1C this year.

 

[ukracer]

The X1 has a few things:
Lidar to scan the first layer and check it, although it's a work in progress atm anyway, it can auto set filament pressure advance too - although often still needs a manual tweak.
It has hardened extruder gears and a hardened nozzle as standard, the P1S comes with stainless ones - they can be swapped out for about £30 later on the P1S if you decide you need hardened stuff.
The bed will do 110c instead of 100c -may be of interest but the P1S comes with a better gold PEI build plate as standard.
The camera is 30fps instead of 0.5fps - nice to have but doesn't really matter.
The case is aluminium instead of the plastic of the P1S (I don't think it's an upside, the P1S case insulates the chamber better and is a bit quieter because of it)
The toolhead and nozzle wiring connectors are a little different - the P1S being a later design has more robust connectors.
The X1 has a nice touchscreen instead of the little button controlled one on the P1 - doesn't really matter I find I use the app on my phone if I need to most of the time. You can get a screen upgrade for about £45 for it that will control up to 10 printers anyway.

A P1S is ~£450 cheaper.
They share the same motion system, they use the same input shaping system, they both flow the same at the hotend, etc. Anything the X1 can do the P1S can do bar that extra 10c on the bed.

Is the bed the same size??

 

[ukracer]

I'd like a Prusa XL toolchanger - it's much faster at changing materials and can do a lot wider range of materials than the Bambu can as standard - but it's also nigh on 3k, delivery is about 8 months, takes a day or two to assemble and calibrate and they're still ironing a lot of stuff out.
Bambu you unbox it, hit the calibrate button, make a cuppa tea and you're good to just press print.

Ah that sorts it for me then. I don't drink tea ( or coffee)

 

[PhillipM]

Is the bed the same size??

Yep, same frame.

 

[Dr.Al]

@Dr.Al how are you finding the MK3s? Tempted by a MK4?

The Mk3s+ has been brilliant. It's super reliable, to the point that I have in the past sent prints to it remotely (via octoprint) and felt comfortable that when I get home it'll be finished. I can't remember the last time I had a failed print.

I did think about a Mk4, but I can't really justify it. At some point I'd love a printer with a bigger bed, but the Mk3s+ works fine and there are other things I'd rather spend the cash on.