Today I acquired...........

[Maker]

Like these?

View attachment 350872

Thanks!

That's the one. You might find you need to replace that thumbscrew for a nut and get a spanner on it, it takes a lot of force to cold-form knurls.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Anti-Rust means it will not rust easily
Rust resistant means it will not rust easily
Anti-Rust resistant means it will resist the Anti-Rust so will easily rust .

Same as someone pleading their innocence by say I never did nothing, that actually means they did do something

Well, that was the initial idea behind my post, the art of the double-negativ.

But then I didn't understand your "If something is Anti-Rust Resistant then does that not mean it will easily rust" therefor I asked

Now it's all clear

Carsten

 

[Lewis_RX8]

That's the one. You might find you need to replace that thumbscrew for a nut and get a spanner on it, it takes a lot of force to cold-form knurls.

I made a knurled circle for mine till I found out I could not wrench down on it properly so milled some flats for a spanner works a lot better

 

[Maker]

I made a knurled circle for mine till I found out I could not wrench down on it properly so milled some flats for a spanner works a lot better

I spotted that.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Here's some photos in use works well alothough my tolerances could have been better ,a little bit more movement than I need

That's the one. You might find you need to replace that thumbscrew for a nut and get a spanner on it, it takes a lot of force to cold-form knurls.

Since I want to apply a knurl to my M62x1.25 union nut,

I would consequently be better served with these, wouldn't I?

Would you agree?

Thanks

Carsten

--

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Would you agree?

Thanks

Carsten

--

I suppose , The thing to consider with the clamp type is they are diameter restricted so if it doesn't fit in between them you would be stuck , With the push in type you could push them into any large diameter and knurl away.

However I've never needed to knurl anything that big

 

[Kram]

Push knurlers are rubbish. My RDG clamp type was not big enough for something so tried the spare push, wouldnt even do aluminium. When I get round to it Im going to remake my clamp type bigger, and with the pivot further back, to use less cross travel.

Can you put a tailstock on that? , Only gripping a small part of the stock, quite large dia and stick out while parting off that can apply some decent loads

Im no full-time turner but done some training and occasionally at work and home and that setup doesn't look ideal for rigidity or work holding.

Tailstock can be good for start parting but theres a risk of jamming the blade so needs a bit of care. If your parting off tube from solid bar and bore that goes past the parting line its perfect to put a tailstock centre in.

@Bki26 that is damned impressive for that little baby lathe

That's the one. You might find you need to replace that thumbscrew for a nut and get a spanner on it, it takes a lot of force to cold-form knurls.

Another way is back the cross slide out a little from centre, wind the knurl by hand, move the cross slide in to centre with the part spinning slow. Works for me as I can never find the adjustable.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

push in type

What do you call the "push in type", Lewis?

What you just showed on your lathe?

Thanks,

Carsten

--

 

[Bki26]

Push knurlers are rubbish. My RDG clamp type was not big enough for something so tried the spare push, wouldnt even do aluminium. When I get round to it Im going to remake my clamp type bigger, and with the pivot further back, to use less cross travel.

Tailstock can be good for start parting but theres a risk of jamming the blade so needs a bit of care. If your parting off tube from solid bar and bore that goes past the parting line its perfect to put a tailstock centre in.

@Bki26 that is damned impressive for that little baby lathe


Another way is back the cross slide out a little from centre, wind the knurl by hand, move the cross slide in to centre with the part spinning slow. Works for me as I can never find the adjustable.

About the only thing impressive, there's some funky headstock + 3 jaw misalignment which I cannot figure out resulting in it producing 0.05mm difference over 2" on some parts ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[northwest]

Indeed, I have also noticed that there is a completely different category of knurling tools: Suddenly it costs 50 times as much and I don't understand why ....

Thanks,

Because you are looking at cut knurls which are a totally different animal and usually made by Quick or Integi: https://www.integi.com/en/knurling-tools/

The ONLY way to knurl Titanium.
Flood coolant, though not essential, is highly recommended as it washes the chips away.

 

[northwest]

Not Totally outwith the reach of the hobbyist you can make your own single wheel tools (I have) and buy the cutting wheels: https://www.cutwel.co.uk/lathe-tools/knurling-tools/cut-knurling/cut-knurling-wheels

Then make a tool like this:

Knurling tool - Integi

www.integi.com

There are some interesting tools on this page:

Knurling tools - Integi

www.integi.com

Some interesting prices too. As @Hood has pointed out in the past though, you cannot use cut knurling to "grow" a part to get you out of the Doo Doo if you have made it too small!

 

[Hood]

.... As @Hood has pointed out in the past though, you cannot use cut knurling to "grow" a part to get you out of the Doo Doo if you have made it too small!

Hey, less of your cheek young man. I never use it to grow a part that I have made a 'Doo Doo ' of .

 

[Johnnybravo]

Hey, less of your cheek young man. I never use it to grow a part that I have made a 'Doo Doo ' of .

Easier to blame the anodising process when the shaft is too small or the hole is too big

 

[Hood]

Easier to blame the anodising process when the shaft is too small or the hole is too big

In truth the only time I use it is for cutlass bushes on boats where the tube is oversize (for various reasons) and the only other option would be great expense and weeks of waiting for a custom bush to be made.

 

[RichardM]

@25.4_mechanic
Push in type:

It's held in the toolpost and pushed into the work with the cross slide. It does impose a lot of strain on the headstock bearings.

 

[Munkul]

@25.4_mechanic
Push in type:

It's held in the toolpost and pushed into the work with the cross slide. It does impose a lot of strain on the headstock bearings.

They work great on bigger and sturdier lathes.

 

[Onthespotwelding]

I was looking for bread, I came out with bread……. And this…….

 

[4String.]

I was looking for bread, I came out with bread……. And this…….

View attachment 350891

Dough!

 

[Bravheart]

I was looking for bread, I came out with bread……. And this…….

View attachment 350891

Usually put butter and jam on mine.

But heho try anything once

 

[Bravheart]

I was looking for bread, I came out with bread……. And this…….

View attachment 350891

Picked up a spool of gasless wire and saw this stuff. There was a choice of water based or oil based. What are they for and what's the difference?