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- Thread starter monkeymark
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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My neighbour is a keen camper and train spotter.
I will not make any comment on his hobbies, each to his own.
He gave me this small Parkside genny set today, saying it does not work, he has a smattering of mechanical skills, but know his limits.
It does not work, was his report to me.
He has had the tank of to reach the plug and fitted a new one.
Simple poking showed me the following.
Looks like I have a small project.
Any one got any info on these sets. I am about to google. But the well of knowledge here is bound to give me a few pointers.
Yes scraping it is a choice.
I will not make any comment on his hobbies, each to his own.
He gave me this small Parkside genny set today, saying it does not work, he has a smattering of mechanical skills, but know his limits.
It does not work, was his report to me.
He has had the tank of to reach the plug and fitted a new one.
Simple poking showed me the following.
- Week spark.
- Less than 4bar compression, even with a squirt of oil into the bore.
- Water in the fuel.
Looks like I have a small project.
Any one got any info on these sets. I am about to google. But the well of knowledge here is bound to give me a few pointers.
Yes scraping it is a choice.
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
- Messages
- 9,558
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- Leeds, West Yorkshire
take it back to lidl for a refund/replacement?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Valves are good, checked them.
Pull cord is now working, cheep cord.
Got 5 bar of cylinder pressure, what holds, so rings, valves are good.
Looking at the week spark side now.
New they were only £150, so apart from the fun of poking it may be just a play project.
Pull cord is now working, cheep cord.
Got 5 bar of cylinder pressure, what holds, so rings, valves are good.
Looking at the week spark side now.
New they were only £150, so apart from the fun of poking it may be just a play project.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 5,816
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- Ireland
I'd be quite willing to buy a pair for 50p... SPQR, as the Romans said.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 5,816
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- Ireland
You might find one of the small Autospark ignition modules will fit it. Dirt cheap, they are, and self-contained pickup + ignition amplifier, you only need a coil.
Westfield-builder
Member
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- 1,652
Don't these have a 3 year warranty? Watch for them on sale again, buy one and take that one back a week later for a refund 
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- 7,127
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Don't scrap it ..they make great sacrificial boat anchors. 
I repaired a very similar one that was painted bright red one around the middle of last year .. the valves had been left open over a wet winter with it stored in a tin shed , It and several other small engined plants had a bit of rust on the valve face so didn't want to seal for a good compression ,. Did a wet compression test and the pressure / pull start resistance rose marginally , took it apart & did a quick light valve lap back in , a complete carb overhaul as well , as everything now runs like a hero .
Also advised therm about using the Briggs & Stratton fuel saver additive to stop the fuel in the tank going off as well as doing a heat sealed shut down list that included :-
Gently pull the engine over till compression resistance is felt before leaving the engine to stand as this will seat both valves and prevent the seats from rusting.
And
If leaving the machine for a long time , drain or syphon off a lot of fuel then run the engine till it uses up all the fuel in the tank & carb.
The bad spark , Either use a hot air gun or put a blow lamp on the plug & dry it out, then clean especially on the outer faces and in the plug lead clip it and reset the gap.
Carefully check the HT & any LT cable for abrasions as well , sometime mechanical vibrations on the insulation have just started to degrade the spark due to a very light leakage . Occasionally the HT cable is actually breaking down inside if it is a carbon fibre conductor type .
Look for spiders web shorts as well , if all OK dry the ignition unit in the airing cupboard for a couple of days and use an ignition sealer to reseal it , then let it dry before refitting making sure the re positioning is correct .
sardine
Member
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- 3,667
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- Buckinghamshire
Its a generic geny that is sold under loads of names, nu tool, sip, ect. I have had a couple given to me as scrappers and got them working again. The pushrods on one be were not hardeded, and bent, the pushrod guide plate on another fell to bits. The alternator mounts snapped off, the exhaust manifold snapped, seal in the fuel cut off died, voltage selector switch melted, one had the oil turn into solid brown goo, other wise no problem .
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Good news.
The Parkside genny set is up and working.
The problems found and fixed.
The Parkside genny set is up and working.
The problems found and fixed.
- Water in fuel.
- Fixed by draining and adding fresh fuel.
- Fixed by draining and adding fresh fuel.
- Pull cord not pulling smoothly.
- Replaced cord and a drop of oil.
- Replaced cord and a drop of oil.
- No spark/weak spark.
- Main On/Off switch. One side not working, switched wires to spare set of contacts.
- LT wire cut by bad routing, replaced and routed correctly.
- Coil pack, dried in oven over night, refitted and aligned with whiteness marks.
- Main On/Off switch. One side not working, switched wires to spare set of contacts.
- No/low compression.
- Invert engine and add a mix of penetrating oil and petrol. Cylinder compression up from aprox. 4 bar to over 8 bar.
- Invert engine and add a mix of penetrating oil and petrol. Cylinder compression up from aprox. 4 bar to over 8 bar.
- Fuel switch letting in air.
- Not much to be done, so a gentle tap with a hammer seamed to seal it.
- Not much to be done, so a gentle tap with a hammer seamed to seal it.
Rescued from the scrap skip today at the yacht club, A set of ten long rotabroach magnetic drill bits from 16 to 35mm dia. Brand new in their plastic cases & unused. All i need now is an adapter so i can use them in a morse taper for my Mill drill. Happy days!
Happy (sunny) days, this just followed me home after parting with 130 sovs. Bleeding heavy too! No more working out how to jam things in the smaller power hacksaw I have but this is such a monstrosity the arm is lifted hydraulically + it has a 3rd motor just for coolant circulation.
tinman123
Putting the Extra into ordinary.
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- 1,068
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- Northern Iron.
god knows we cut plenty of metal off a saw like that when i served my time, the trick that time was to hang weights off it at the back so it took longer to cut because nobody wanted to rush cutting off a 50mm round bar to go filing it down to within an inch of its life.
that's as industrial a power hacksaw as i think ive ever seen tho, what we had were big but nowhere near that strong looking as that one there.
one thing is for sure, it ill cut whatever is put in front of it anyways.
health to wear.
that's as industrial a power hacksaw as i think ive ever seen tho, what we had were big but nowhere near that strong looking as that one there.
one thing is for sure, it ill cut whatever is put in front of it anyways.
health to wear.
No markings, Ive just been out there and checked again with tape measure in hand, there's adjustble stroke so can't see properly until its commissioned & stroke adjusted. You can fix 50cm workpieces into the vice. It takes a 50cm hacksaw blade so thats the usual max limiter, so 50cm - the 5cm or so of the mounting blocks either end of the blade, 45cm max workpiece in the front to back I'd guess at. Ive cut some very oversize material in my little power hacksaw over the years to have some cunning workarounds, like having to rotate a large round bigger than the blade stroke mid cut but the less you have to do this, the easier life is. Max height is how high the ram can move the arm to commence cutting and the max cut is reduced when the angle from horizontal gets larger same as any of these saws. Oh I think something I spied underneath is a lube pump and a oil sump to keep the bearings fed too.
Unusual design, in that most power hacksaw's I've seen have rails the blade holder hangs from, this the blade holder is one massive casting and its on a trunnion at the rear and the whole arm slides between the cheeks of the rear casting as the slideways which seem to have very little miles on them. It has a big dial to change cutting stroke mounted on the rough pivot centre of the arm crank so I'm guessing this alters crank throw to change blade travel. The need for this extra functionality that I can think of is to shorten the stroke to cut larger diameters.
The whole casting is on a pivot at the rear and is lifted up and down by a hydraulic ram mounted underneath. Friend passed it onto me because it was too big for his workshop and he needed his trailer back once he'd had it loaded.
Unusual design, in that most power hacksaw's I've seen have rails the blade holder hangs from, this the blade holder is one massive casting and its on a trunnion at the rear and the whole arm slides between the cheeks of the rear casting as the slideways which seem to have very little miles on them. It has a big dial to change cutting stroke mounted on the rough pivot centre of the arm crank so I'm guessing this alters crank throw to change blade travel. The need for this extra functionality that I can think of is to shorten the stroke to cut larger diameters.
The whole casting is on a pivot at the rear and is lifted up and down by a hydraulic ram mounted underneath. Friend passed it onto me because it was too big for his workshop and he needed his trailer back once he'd had it loaded.
