V8 trike build.

[8ob]

It depends how solidly the diff is mounted, bare minimum is a reaction plate bolted to the underside of the lower fulcrum points and firmly fixed to the chassis. Seen loads of badly installed solid mounted jag backends with axle tramp and too much flex, the lower radius arms were never designed to be unsupported in tramp.Dax had a neat rose jointed radius arm system sporting the correct geometry.

Bob

 

[Morrisman]

It depends how solidly the diff is mounted, bare minimum is a reaction plate bolted to the underside of the lower fulcrum points and firmly fixed to the chassis. Seen loads of badly installed solid mounted jag backends with axle tramp and too much flex, the lower radius arms were never designed to be unsupported in tramp.Dax had a neat rose jointed radius arm system sporting the correct geometry.

Bob

There's a 10 x 50 strap across the front, which the lower pivots bolts pass through, as shown in this early pic and that is reinforced in several places now. There's also one across the back too. The top mount will be suitably stiffened as well.

 

[colnerov]

Hi, Considering the weight of the trike compared to the original car I would suggest the trailing links could be dispensed with.

Colin

 

[8ob]

Easy enough to check, take some measurements and attach/tighten a ratchet strap around rear lower arm to a suitable forward chassis point. A mates Cobra had over an inch of movement,he couldn't take a radius arm forward without a major hacking of the chassis so he ran his at the correct angle to a rear chassis mount putting the rad arm in tension.That worked well.

Bob

 

[jsf55]

Easy enough to check, take some measurements and attach/tighten a ratchet strap around rear lower arm to a suitable forward chassis point. A mates Cobra had over an inch of movement,he couldn't take a radius arm forward without a major hacking of the chassis so he ran his at the correct angle to a rear chassis mount putting the rad arm in tension.That worked well.

Bob

I was going to say run them rearwards too, but it looks like a nightmare to fix them anywhere, to be honest, i think you'll be fine without them as long as the bearings in the lower arm are all in good condition

 

[Morrisman]

Easy enough to check, take some measurements and attach/tighten a ratchet strap around rear lower arm to a suitable forward chassis point. A mates Cobra had over an inch of movement,he couldn't take a radius arm forward without a major hacking of the chassis so he ran his at the correct angle to a rear chassis mount putting the rad arm in tension.That worked well.

Bob

If mine moved an inch there would have to be some big cracks in the frame steel. And I've still not finished with adding gussets yet.

 

[mylesdw]

If a solidly mounted IRS can can move an inch there is something badly wrong somewhere and radius rods are not the answer.

 

[Morrisman]

If a solidly mounted IRS can can move an inch there is something badly wrong somewhere and radius rods are not the answer.

The front mount on mine is 10 x 50 steel, with another strip the same welded underneath. And some 7/8" square tube triangulating to the frame further forward, sort of.

I'll also run cross pieces that bolt up underneath, there are 8 x 5/16" tapped holes between both side brackets, my water pipe brackets are currently hanging from some of them.

As I know I shan't be running trailing arms I will throw more steel at it when final finish welding comes about. Gussets. You've never got enough gussets.

There may even be provision for wheelie bars.....

 

[Morrisman]

I saw a pic today of a Jag diff mounted in a hot rod with four bolts in the top, and just two turnbuckles to restrain and locate the bottom of the lump.

I meant to save the pic, but messed up somewhere, though it might explain why someone had 1" of axle movement.

 

[Morrisman]

Today I made some 'mid mounts' to brace the transmission bell-housing to the frame amidships. Just a little more to stiffen everything up. A couple of plates were drilled and tacked to the frame, and I went from there.



Everything was going swimmingly, until I remembered I haven't actually aligned the rear end accurately yet, so there might be some judicious oval filing of holes later in the build......

Those lugs that stick out of the casing, I'm sure they are simply for manufacturing purposes, datums for machining, so could probably be lopped off and ground smooth?

 

[Morrisman]

I was just browsing Facebook and came across a bunch of pics of the hot rod I built in the Philippines a decade or more ago, which was pretty much what prompted me to built this trike. Some old and painful memories there.

 

[jsf55]

The were indeed Paul, Borg Warner had similar lugs and i saw how they were bolted up for machining

 

[Morrisman]

More mountings made today, not worked out the mistake yet, but I'm sure there will be one.

Two outriggers were created and welded to the back of the rear frame to support the body, plus give a place to bolt up some sort of rear bumper or protection out the back.

Small steps, but one more job ticked off.

 

[Morrisman]

I had a go at mocking up the big front disc today, in 1/4" plywood. I think the biggest diameter I can go is about 13", and still be able to get the calipers on and off. I have 2 calipers that came with another wheel, but they're a bit crap condition and it's probably better to go with just one bigger one, a longish multi-pot thing.

 

[Wedg1e]

TVR used the Salisbury 4HU on the Wedge cars from '79-'90... it looks a bit like this (mine, in 2016):

The brackets sticking out from the sides of the lower frame were for the lower wishbones (or A-frames). The half-shafts act as the upper link. The diff is fitted using Metalastik's into the lower frame and the upper alloy crossbeam was rubber-mounted to the chassis. On my car it's a 3.31:1 PowrLok.

Might have saved the OP a bit of fabrication (yes, I know that was the point of the exercise )

 

[addjunkie]

TVR used the Salisbury 4HU on the Wedge cars from '79-'90... it looks a bit like this (mine, in 2016):

View attachment 373929

The brackets sticking out from the sides of the lower frame were for the lower wishbones (or A-frames). The half-shafts act as the upper link. The diff is fitted using Metalastik's into the lower frame and the upper alloy crossbeam was rubber-mounted to the chassis. On my car it's a 3.31:1 PowrLok.

View attachment 373927

View attachment 373928

Might have saved the OP a bit of fabrication (yes, I know that was the point of the exercise )

3.31-1 diff ratio would work well on a bike based trike….say a vmax or something equally powerful.

 

[Agroshield]

I had a go at mocking up the big front disc today...

Cue jokes about the brakes being a bit wooden.

If you cannot get enough stopping power in there, would two calipers work, one leading the fork and the other trailing it (a little like a twin leading shoe drum)?

 

[Morrisman]

Cue jokes about the brakes being a bit wooden.

If you cannot get enough stopping power in there, would two calipers work, one leading the fork and the other trailing it (a little like a twin leading shoe drum)?

I have two of those calipers, from a Suzuki 1500 cruiser, and planned using them both together but one bigger one might be simpler.

 

[Popcorn]

Have you thought about mounting the calibers Radially, but then you'd probably need different calipers.

 

[addjunkie]

Think Id be looking for a higher performance calliper, sports bike maybe. As youve made the forks fitting shouldnt be an issue