V8 trike build.

[Wedg1e]

3.31-1 diff ratio would work well on a bike based trike….say a vmax or something equally powerful.

It probably knocks the edge off the TVR's acceleration (most got the 3.54:1 diff) but I didn't buy it because I thought it was fast - plenty of other cars for the same money even then (2000) would have been nippier.
But you can pull away in 2nd and go straight into 5th, even my diesel van bogs a bit if you try that
Actually my bike will do that as well, but it is half a V8...

 

[8ob]

How are the brakes piped up on a trike? Wondered if the front was on the bars/pedal for the rears as per a bike or if they were all piped up as a car on a foot pedal.

Bob

 

[addjunkie]

How are the brakes piped up on a trike? Wondered if the front was on the bars/pedal for the rears as per a bike or if they were all piped up as a car on a foot pedal.

Bob

Can be either independant front and rear, or linked, easiest is independent using bike front and car rear

 

[mikejack]

no idea how i missed this thread !

 

[mikejack]

its a dd too think it was called behemoth , mate runs it i do some spannering on it

 

[Morrisman]

How are the brakes piped up on a trike? Wondered if the front was on the bars/pedal for the rears as per a bike or if they were all piped up as a car on a foot pedal.

Bob

Mine will have hand operated front, foot rear.

I did a mock up last night, it's not going to be easy or neat to mount them both, plus have them floating round the spindle and tied to the rear leg.



I'm not sure if some sort of after market car caliper would do, but they are usually designed for discs a good half inch thick or more.

 

[Cato]

Mine will have hand operated front, foot rear.

I did a mock up last night, it's not going to be easy or neat to mount them both, plus have them floating round the spindle and tied to the rear leg.

View attachment 374248

I'm not sure if some sort of after market car caliper would do, but they are usually designed for discs a good half inch thick or more.

There's going to be some interesting work go on with the joints to allow them to move with the wheel travel too. I don't envy you that, but it'll be interesting to see it progress.

 

[minimutly]

There's going to be some interesting work go on with the joints to allow them to move with the wheel travel too. I don't envy you that, but it'll be interesting to see it progress.

Usually they mount to a carrier which is anchored about the wheel spindle, with a torque bar to stop the whole lot spinning around.
Unless you have conventional forks of course.

 

[Cato]

Usually they mount to a carrier which is anchored about the wheel spindle, with a torque bar to stop the whole lot spinning around.
Unless you have conventional forks of course.

With the torque bar able to go through the arc of the wheel moving at one end and the fixed end at the leg end what sort of joints are used at the two ends?

 

[Agroshield]

Unless you have conventional forks of course.

Would it be true to say that his forks are the same in concept to those on a Honda C50/C90? On those, with the way the brake was mounted, the forks rose when you braked rather than dived.

 

[Morrisman]

Would it be true to say that his forks are the same in concept to those on a Honda C50/C90? On those, with the way the brake was mounted, the forks rose when you braked rather than dived.

No, these are springers. As mentioned above the calipers will be in a bracket that floats on the wheel spindle, with a torque arm to the rear fork leg. That's what will stop it rising or falling under braking. I'll probably use rose joints on a round rod for that. The problem is getting everything to fit in a relatively small space.

 

[minimutly]

No, these are springers. As mentioned above the calipers will be in a bracket that floats on the wheel spindle, with a torque arm to the rear fork leg. That's what will stop it rising or falling under braking. I'll probably use rose joints on a round rod for that. The problem is getting everything to fit in a relatively small space.

This is why they very often sit underneath the disc, not so pretty, but it gets a straight link to the fixed tube.

 

[Morrisman]

This is why they very often sit underneath the disc, not so pretty, but it gets a straight link to the fixed tube.

The link rod? Yes, that seems about the only route for it. But that means it's under double the tension of being level with the calipers.
The front legs of the springer have a fashionable curve inwards.... right where I don't really need it...

 

[minimutly]

The link rod? Yes, that seems about the only route for it. But that means it's under double the tension of being level with the calipers.
The front legs of the springer have a fashionable curve inwards.... right where I don't really need it...

If the callipers are underneath the link will be in compression. And if you use the leading link pivot as the inboard end, you don’t need to add a new pivot (for the link rod).
They do look better above though...

 

[Morrisman]

If the callipers are underneath the link will be in compression. And if you use the leading link pivot as the inboard end, you don’t need to add a new pivot (for the link rod).
They do look better above though...

That would cause the front end to rise under braking, Honda 50 style though, I think....
And yes, they would look pretty carp hanging underneath.

My old SR500 I owned for 20 years in the Philippines, the only way I could fit the front brake was underneath.... It looked awful, but I planned to sort something else out...... some day..... then it got sold in the big divorce.

 

[PhillipM]

Mine will have hand operated front, foot rear.

I did a mock up last night, it's not going to be easy or neat to mount them both, plus have them floating round the spindle and tied to the rear leg.

View attachment 374248

I'm not sure if some sort of after market car caliper would do, but they are usually designed for discs a good half inch thick or more.

Plenty of wilwoods designed for solid discs, mine on the buggy are only 6mm front, 8mm rear discs, you can always add backing plate shims

 

[8ob]

Another thing to look at when swapping around callipers is the pad contact area on callipers that are made for a smaller disc, you can get a situation where the pads hang over the edge of the disc because the bridge of the calliper has the rad of a smaller disc machined into it. My money would go an a big four pot and have the mating/joining faces of the calliper milled/oringed to run a thinner disc, could also deal with the radius issue at the same time.
Hope this makes sense, forgive me if it doesn’t ,it’s because I am old.

Bob

 

[Morris]

I speak old, made sense to me

 

[Morrisman]

Another thing to look at when swapping around callipers is the pad contact area on callipers that are made for a smaller disc, you can get a situation where the pads hang over the edge of the disc because the bridge of the calliper has the rad of a smaller disc machined into it. My money would go an a big four pot and have the mating/joining faces of the calliper milled/oringed to run a thinner disc, could also deal with the radius issue at the same time.
Hope this makes sense, forgive me if it doesn’t ,it’s because I am old.

Bob

Yes, I speak old too, understand exactly what you're saying.

 

[minimutly]

That would cause the front end to rise under braking, Honda 50 style though, I think....
And yes, they would look pretty carp hanging underneath.

My old SR500 I owned for 20 years in the Philippines, the only way I could fit the front brake was underneath.... It looked awful, but I planned to sort something else out...... some day..... then it got sold in the big divorce.
View attachment 374478

My first reaction (pardon the pun) was No it wouldn’t, cause the front to rise under braking. But you’r right, it could. But maybe you could use this to counteract the natural tendency to dive?