V8 trike build.

[bricol]

I found the email address to send off to DVLA to apply for a VIN to start the registration ball rolling. It can apparently take weeks for things to move, and after spending 25 minutes on hold on the phone I was informed they are taking strike action this week....

Something else I've found, if the motor is manufactured after 1990 it has to be emissions tested. The casting number indicates it was manufactured 95-00.

Any chance this thing would pass such a test, running on a car, and not fuel injection and a catalytic converter?

Or could I cure the problem with a Dremel....

I read the requirement for an amateur built vehicle to have a VIN, as you have to provide a new one, and that DVLA can provide one. Not that you have to have a DVLA issued one.

So make up your own 17 digit number . . . Daughter initials, date of birth, coordinates of her place of birth etc ?

 

[Morrisman]

I read the requirement for an amateur built vehicle to have a VIN, as you have to provide a new one, and that DVLA can provide one. Not that you have to have a DVLA issued one.

So make up your own 17 digit number . . . Daughter initials, date of birth, coordinates of her place of birth etc ?

I heard that before, but I've since been told that they have to supply it now. Not sure exactly where I heard it, but I recall it was from a respected source.

If I could make my own it would be simpler, and undoubtedly quicker.

 

[bricol]

I had a rummage on the DVLA website as I was bored - and I will need to do the same for my trials car. Semi-conflicting advice:

But then also:

And for motorbikes:

I still read that as being able to make your own up, as long as it is the right length, and stamped in . . . but I guess if you're not applying for the test next week, a little delay for them to issue you with one rules out a fail on that point.

20 yrs ago my Stratos replica gained a chassis number that was very similar in style to original Stratos style

 

[Morris]

My take would be to use a DVLA issued vin. No problems come iva time with made up numbers that may or may not meet DVLA's criteria, although as already alluded to, I believe it has to be a DVLA issued number now.

 

[Gritineye]

The SGS man came to verify one of my altered vehicles, and I asked him about another rolling chassis I had that was never issued with a vin (because 1928).

I asked if stamping my own number on it would be easier, he said that might work but it has been known for two people to choose he same numbers.

 

[Morrisman]

The black dog has subsided a bit, and I dragged myself into the shed this morning to do something actually constructive again. Cooling fans have been spliced into the rear of the bed to suck cool fresh air through the rad. I spent weeks procrastinating about major surgery to hide them out of sight, but eventually just stuck them on the outside, where they will be partially hidden by a tube bumper, reg plate and tail lights.

My hi-tech circle cutting plasma device.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

^^ Nice work!

 

[Bullet2012]

My hi-tech circle cutting plasma device.

It works, therefore it’s good.

 

[Morrisman]

Hand brake, bought one from Carbuilder. com. It fits the space it will live perfectly, almost like it was designed that way. I shall tack it in place tomorrow..... then work out how to get the cable routed and connected, and made.





I've also bought a fortunes worth of stainless headlights and some led tail lights... not thinking to check whether they are MSVA compliant..... best have a check....
The headlights are 'IVA compliant', according to the Carbuilder web page. £100+ each so that's a relief.


The tail lights say 'E4 marked' which means nothing to me.

 

[colnerov]

Hi, The 'E' means it's approved for EC use, the number is the country or state that it was approved in, in this case it's the Netherlands, and is honoured across the EC. The UK is shadowing all EC directives, rules and regulations so will be fine.

Colin

 

[Morrisman]

Hi, The 'E' means it's approved for EC use, the number is the country or state that it was approved in, in this case it's the Netherlands, and is honoured across the EC. The UK is shadowing all EC directives, rules and regulations so will be fine.

Colin

Great, thanks. I'm relieved. I was sure I read a section in the MSVA manual about all the markings, but when I look back now I can find nothing.

 

[Morris]

From memory only the fog light needs to be E marked, the rest just need to be of similar standard and meet requirements eg dip cut off.

 

[Morrisman]

Handbrake lever is now where it's going to live, but I'm not sure whether to use the stock weirdo Jag handbrake calipers, or do a simple prop shaft disc and mechanical calliper. I shall have to check out the set of used brakes I bought a while ago.



Welded up the rear 'bumper'. I'd like to run a row of small round Landrover style tail lights inside it, if the rules allow.

 

[My Old Landy]

Handbrake lever is now where it's going to live, but I'm not sure whether to use the stock weirdo Jag handbrake calipers, or do a simple prop shaft disc and mechanical calliper. I shall have to check out the set of used brakes I bought a while ago.

View attachment 395504

Welded up the rear 'bumper'. I'd like to run a row of small round Landrover style tail lights inside it, if the rules allow.

View attachment 395505

View attachment 395506

Looking good!

 

[Morrisman]

Brackets were fabbed, tacked in place, then it was bolted onto the trike, and tacked again.
Then onto the bench for finished welding, with several strips of bar clamped and tacked to stop it moving while welding.

Unbelievably, it actually fitted right back on, bolts slipped into holes easily.

That can't be right, nothing I make goes this easily.







I just noticed the LED lights I've fitted to my bike are the perfect size to slip inside the tube bumper space. One each end, cheap as chips and have an e marking on too.



I put them on the back of my last trike too.

 

[addjunkie]

Cant remember the value but there is a min distance from the outside of the rear end for the lights, best check…..before its too late!

 

[Morris]

Cant remember the value but there is a min distance from the outside of the rear end for the lights, best check…..before its too late!

It's a minimum distance apart, 600mm covers Morrisman's. It's the reflectors that have to be 400mm max from the edge.
Cars are measured from the edge.

 

[Morrisman]

It's a minimum distance apart, 600mm covers Morrisman's. It's the reflectors that have to be 400mm max from the edge.
Cars are measured from the edge.

I'll probably also put reflectors on the back of the mudguards, and white position lights on the front.

 

[Morrisman]

I thought i'd have a go at cleaning up the old Jag brake calipers I achieved last year. They're caked with grime, so I drug out a bottle of super duper Halfrauds degreaser and started spraying and brushing with my toothbrush.....then I left it all overnight with a good spray of the stuff

Result: Worthless! It hasn't touched any of the grease, not even softened it up. Water would work just as good.

I found of gallon of diesel in the shed and put it in a bucket, to soak my caliper parts.
Then I noticed the bench was wet, well, soaked, with diesel, and the floor... There's a hole in my bucket... ..... so I rushed into the kitchen and found two stainless cake mixing bowls.
Excellent.

Once cleaned I'll pop the pistons out and check the bores, see about a rebuild set. Or ,
maybe see how much reconditioned ones are.

Eta: I was just about to go buy another gallon of diesel, to soak them in, but saw Screwfix degreaser recommended on another thread, so I've order a gallon of that, to collect today, £11. Hardly much more than diesel would be.....

 

[Cato]

I thought i'd have a go at cleaning up the old Jag brake calipers I achieved last year. They're caked with grime, so I drug out a bottle of super duper Halfrauds degreaser and started spraying and brushing with my toothbrush.....then I left it all overnight with a good spray of the stuff

Result: Worthless! It hasn't touched any of the grease, not even softened it up. Water would work just as good.

I found of gallon of diesel in the shed and put it in a bucket, to soak my caliper parts.
Then I noticed the bench was wet, well, soaked, with diesel, and the floor... There's a hole in my bucket... ..... so I rushed into the kitchen and found two stainless cake mixing bowls.
Excellent.

Once cleaned I'll pop the pistons out and check the bores, see about a rebuild set. Or ,
maybe see how much reconditioned ones are.

Eta: I was just about to go buy another gallon of diesel, to soak them in, but saw Screwfix degreaser recommended on another thread, so I've order a gallon of that, to collect today, £11. Hardly much more than diesel would be.....

The screwfix 'no nonsense' degreaser does work well and you can dilute it a fair bit without it having any noticeable effect on its cleaning capabilities. Worth noting that it works even faster if the liquid is heated, and don't leave any aluminium/alloy in it overnight as it tarnishes.