Oy.....lol@Screwdriver , well impressed with the quality. I suspect @ukracer's quality is just as good but your photos are better!
Oy.....lol@Screwdriver , well impressed with the quality. I suspect @ukracer's quality is just as good but your photos are better!
Are you going to drop the STL in the useful 3 D prints thread. . (Please) That's good enough to do on thingiverse as well..Well I'm hooked. I can hardly believe I was able to do this at all and it came out bang on target first attempt.
A 12 hours this is never going to be a production machine but for one offs like this (maybe 5 off) it is ideal.
Just took a flying guess at 2mm wall and relatively standard settings for PETG. The surface finish is excellent, almost satin gloss.
Now for the lid then hopefully some more interesting designs...
Stick with ender 3 as you can see what's capable out of the box..I've resisted the urge to buy a 3D printer, but it's becoming overwhelming
@Screwdriver , well impressed with the quality. I suspect @ukracer's quality is just as good but your photos are better!
Are you going to drop the STL in the useful 3 D prints thread. . (Please) That's good enough to do on thingiverse as well..
I bought one anyway. Ender 3X 3D, direct from Creality, shipping from Czech, £169.
I'll order up some PLA (?) separately since they want $44 for 2kg which seems high.
Do you have a link to the one you bought? I can't find at that price nor a shipping to the UK option.
Easy to tell - the Y axis extrusion on a E3 Pro is 40x40. It's also got a more efficient (and CE approved?) power supply.I think the 3X is a 3 Pro
Easy to tell - the Y axis extrusion on a E3 Pro is 40x40. It's also got a more efficient (and CE approved?) power supply.
I don't think it is the same. Check the extrusion the bed sits on (20x40 on Ender 3, 3X; 40x40 on Pro). They're both 24v PSUs but AFAIK only the Pro gets the "Meanwell" branded one.I don't know which extrusion you mean. It does have the 24v PSU which I recall wanting, it also came with a glass bed (and the fibre one).
<edit> found it: https://www.creality3dofficial.com/...fxW_DV8CKB-tAmISfP5ojpeqz0b5_PbRoCScMQAvD_BwE
The "3X" is a 3 Pro with extras. Lucky me...
I don't think it is the same. Check the extrusion the bed sits on (20x40 on Ender 3, 3X; 40x40 on Pro). They're both 24v PSUs but AFAIK only the Pro gets the "Meanwell" branded one.
It may also be that PETG is an easier material for the Ender 3, I haven't really tried PLA yet and I think I'll probably stick with PETG for now. A black reel just turned up so my prints should start to look even better, especially in the dark!
PET-G is a little weird, if you hit the sweet spot it comes out beautifully, but it's a very narrow range depending on what and how you're printing. PLA copes with a much wider range of temperatures, overhangs, geometries, etc.
These airboxes were single-wall thickness PET-G and came out airtight every time but they took some dialing in to start with:
View attachment 244890
Nno...lol. You might get lucky but you saw how good screwdrivers ender was out of the box. PETG is actually not that easy either..lolMaybe I should try PETG before totally writing off the Anycubic?
Nno...lol. You might get lucky but you saw how good screwdrivers ender was out of the box. PETG is actually not that easy either..lol
PLA is the easiest.
I am sure the Anycubic can be sorted but there should be boat loads of ender 3 on selling sites now we have been prevented from creating visor holders.
Just read an interesting thing where the bloke is having the same issues with holes as my lad does. Could it simply be a bed levelling issue? Off to find my feeler gauges! He only ever levelled it with the "special" paper it came with.
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.co...em-printing-circles-holes-on-anycubic-i3-mega