I was actually talking about screwdrivers box. As it would probably help all of us to see the sequence of doing it. Sounds like he has it sorted but keeping the recordings for reference would be good IMHO.
- Thread starter Screwdriver
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Ah I though it was black.
Given up on what. ?
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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3D printing in general.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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This may be obvious and I may have answered my own question, but I thought I would ask anyway.
I'm about to add the self levelling kit to the Ender 3, loads of how to's on t'internet so shouldn't be too hard. Fampus las to words
All the instructions miss out what to do with the bed adjustment used for manual self levelling post installation. At the moment you press self home, the head find the top of the left near corner of the plate then release the steppers and wind down adjustment screws on each corner. move the head over the bed and adjust back up to just grab a standard sheet of paper. As the adjustment screws are on springs, there is a bit of give in the bed should something happen and the nozzle pushes down for some reason.
The self levelling kit replaces the Z axis limit sensor with the "BL touch" sensor mounted next to the print head. So I'm guessing it takes measurements at several places on the bed so it knows if its warped or tilted and compensates accordingly as it prints.
So, do you perform one last leveling of the bed and leave a bit of spring and forget it, or do you screw the bed down tight and get another few mm of printing headroom?
Cheers
Andy
I'm about to add the self levelling kit to the Ender 3, loads of how to's on t'internet so shouldn't be too hard. Fampus las to words
All the instructions miss out what to do with the bed adjustment used for manual self levelling post installation. At the moment you press self home, the head find the top of the left near corner of the plate then release the steppers and wind down adjustment screws on each corner. move the head over the bed and adjust back up to just grab a standard sheet of paper. As the adjustment screws are on springs, there is a bit of give in the bed should something happen and the nozzle pushes down for some reason.
The self levelling kit replaces the Z axis limit sensor with the "BL touch" sensor mounted next to the print head. So I'm guessing it takes measurements at several places on the bed so it knows if its warped or tilted and compensates accordingly as it prints.
So, do you perform one last leveling of the bed and leave a bit of spring and forget it, or do you screw the bed down tight and get another few mm of printing headroom?
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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So one last manual levelling exercise, not each time you print?
Yes - the self levelling sensor is really to compensate for the bed as PhillipM said but you shouldn't need to manual level each time. I have my start G-code edited to perform a self levelling before every print as I don't mind the extra time before printing. There is an OctoPrint plugin to generate a nice map of the bed: https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/bedlevelvisualizer/
Screwdriver
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First project done then.
I am happy with the result but my god the printing times!
Accuracy isn't as spot on as I had hoped but not my model and I could probably dial it out with the settings. I note the 12mm holes were a little bit off round which I believe is fairly typical, again if that was super critical, you could dial it out in settings or on the model. I drilled out the holes very lightly with a new sharp bit and the operation is surprisingly good. I resisted the temptation to run a die down the threads, just tidied up with a bit of emery paper.
Should make a very decent little home/electronics vice. Weighs in at 208g
I am happy with the result but my god the printing times!
Accuracy isn't as spot on as I had hoped but not my model and I could probably dial it out with the settings. I note the 12mm holes were a little bit off round which I believe is fairly typical, again if that was super critical, you could dial it out in settings or on the model. I drilled out the holes very lightly with a new sharp bit and the operation is surprisingly good. I resisted the temptation to run a die down the threads, just tidied up with a bit of emery paper.
Should make a very decent little home/electronics vice. Weighs in at 208g
DAPPH
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Help ...
I've bust a selector double ended dog on the forward /reverse change box on my lathe when doing a cross cut under power of the gears . My hand slipped off the pull to stop the drive knob just as it was getting to the limit of the travel . . I want to make one in the same sort of alloy aluminium using the lost plastic casting method. Everything on the lathe is in Imperial measurements.... it's 77 or more years old
I'm having trouble getting the tessellated dog teeth / ends on the sliding dog collet body, they are not parallel cut teeth . They look a bit like the old concrete painted white ordnance survey trig points ( but a hell of a lot smaller with less inclines )
The max dia of the spool is 0.950 thou and the internal through 650 thou , there are six teeth in the same alignment at the both ends of the collet , tooth height is 0.200 thou at each end total length of the spool is 0.950 thou
Now for the bit I'm struggling with , there are six evenly spaced dog teeth with the same gap between them . Outside width of a tooth is 0.232 at the root & 0.215 at the top outer end . On the inner side of the tooth a root 0.188 thou & 0.1175 thou at the top end . So basically the teeth are tapered equally going back and also equally tapered vertically to allow an easier feed in . the top & bottom of the sliding dog collet are flat like a cotton reel
Can any one give me pointers how to go about doing these tapered dog teeth please in Fusion 360 ? I've been thinking it may be a three part design that get glued / fused up after printing
Initially I thought I'd be able to turn one up on the lathe but the taper angles of the teeth to such fine tolerances are not re-productable on my lathe with the kit I've got
I've bust a selector double ended dog on the forward /reverse change box on my lathe when doing a cross cut under power of the gears . My hand slipped off the pull to stop the drive knob just as it was getting to the limit of the travel . . I want to make one in the same sort of alloy aluminium using the lost plastic casting method. Everything on the lathe is in Imperial measurements.... it's 77 or more years old
I'm having trouble getting the tessellated dog teeth / ends on the sliding dog collet body, they are not parallel cut teeth . They look a bit like the old concrete painted white ordnance survey trig points ( but a hell of a lot smaller with less inclines )
The max dia of the spool is 0.950 thou and the internal through 650 thou , there are six teeth in the same alignment at the both ends of the collet , tooth height is 0.200 thou at each end total length of the spool is 0.950 thou
Now for the bit I'm struggling with , there are six evenly spaced dog teeth with the same gap between them . Outside width of a tooth is 0.232 at the root & 0.215 at the top outer end . On the inner side of the tooth a root 0.188 thou & 0.1175 thou at the top end . So basically the teeth are tapered equally going back and also equally tapered vertically to allow an easier feed in . the top & bottom of the sliding dog collet are flat like a cotton reel
Can any one give me pointers how to go about doing these tapered dog teeth please in Fusion 360 ? I've been thinking it may be a three part design that get glued / fused up after printing
Initially I thought I'd be able to turn one up on the lathe but the taper angles of the teeth to such fine tolerances are not re-productable on my lathe with the kit I've got
Photo would help mate.
You now know people have 2 or 3 printers.First project done then.
I am happy with the result but my god the printing times!
Accuracy isn't as spot on as I had hoped but not my model and I could probably dial it out with the settings. I note the 12mm holes were a little bit off round which I believe is fairly typical, again if that was super critical, you could dial it out in settings or on the model. I drilled out the holes very lightly with a new sharp bit and the operation is surprisingly good. I resisted the temptation to run a die down the threads, just tidied up with a bit of emery paper.
Should make a very decent little home/electronics vice. Weighs in at 208g
.And that not counting for the fact I run the ABS printer on a 0.8 nozzle
That's a big shame. You are a big asset and your son is brilliant.
Personally I would sell your any cubic and buy an ender 3 in your situation.
You have most things in place but you are not the only one to have issues with anycubic . It's much easier with a popular base machine that makes trouble shooting easier.
Screwdriver
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Hi @DAPPH you would be much better off posting this in a dedicated thread and not in this one which is more concerned with 3D printing. Ask the mods to move it if you like, you might find someone on this forum who is not interested in 3D printing who would be able to help...
Screwdriver
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Well I'm hooked. I can hardly believe I was able to do this at all and it came out bang on target first attempt.
A 12 hours this is never going to be a production machine but for one offs like this (maybe 5 off) it is ideal.
Just took a flying guess at 2mm wall and relatively standard settings for PETG. The surface finish is excellent, almost satin gloss.
Now for the lid then hopefully some more interesting designs...
A 12 hours this is never going to be a production machine but for one offs like this (maybe 5 off) it is ideal.
Just took a flying guess at 2mm wall and relatively standard settings for PETG. The surface finish is excellent, almost satin gloss.
Now for the lid then hopefully some more interesting designs...
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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@Screwdriver , well impressed with the quality. I suspect @ukracer's quality is just as good but your photos are better!
DAPPH
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Thanks ,
I have started the new thread ..as ... " Help with Fusion 360 design " It is open to anyone who is struggling to discover how to do or for advice in general .
Screwdriver
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Haha. You'll probably find me in there sooner or later!
