You do need time. I do find once I go back to it I can start it up and leave it. Where I used to feel like watching it.
- Thread starter Screwdriver
- Start date
Thank you for that I will take your advise and get just the normal PLA.. Its taken me all day but I now have it up and running after getting my assembly just a little bit wrong but now sorted.
I have done 10 rolls so far and not a hint of a blockage.
As I said each Wednesday and Sunday at 9pm they released new stock to the website and by 5 past nine it had all sold out. I never saw one complaint during that time out of all their users on Facebook.
Ok its school me time.
What is each plastic type used for?
Which printer comes ready to use out of the box for as many different plastic types as possible for roughly £300?
I want it to work & not need to be upgraded as I develop.
What cheap / free bits of software would I need?
Are 3d scanners cheap enough to pair up with a printer?
Any other tips / mistakes you have all learnt along the way?
What is each plastic type used for?
Which printer comes ready to use out of the box for as many different plastic types as possible for roughly £300?
I want it to work & not need to be upgraded as I develop.
What cheap / free bits of software would I need?
Are 3d scanners cheap enough to pair up with a printer?
Any other tips / mistakes you have all learnt along the way?
Screwdriver
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If I was going to buy another printer (and I might) I'd be looking at the Ender 3 V2. Good entry level machine.
Use a bit of software you're comfortable with to knock up your own models (Fusion 360 if you're feeling brave, FreeCAD, Tinkercad is super simple...) or just find stuff on Thingiverse and play with that.
Once you have a 3d model that looks good on a screen, save it or export it as a .STL file. Virtually all 3d software will do that, the one's above do anyway).
Your STL file needs to talk the exact language of your specific printer so you neeed ANOTHER bit of software to convert STL into so called GCODE. Ultimaker Cura is the only one I have used. Drag and drop, sounds hard but is dead easy.
All the above is free.
I have never made a single mistake in all the time I have been playing with 3d. They are merely "learning experiences". I've had plenty of those...
Use a bit of software you're comfortable with to knock up your own models (Fusion 360 if you're feeling brave, FreeCAD, Tinkercad is super simple...) or just find stuff on Thingiverse and play with that.
Once you have a 3d model that looks good on a screen, save it or export it as a .STL file. Virtually all 3d software will do that, the one's above do anyway).
Your STL file needs to talk the exact language of your specific printer so you neeed ANOTHER bit of software to convert STL into so called GCODE. Ultimaker Cura is the only one I have used. Drag and drop, sounds hard but is dead easy.
All the above is free.
I have never made a single mistake in all the time I have been playing with 3d. They are merely "learning experiences". I've had plenty of those...
I have been looking at the Ender 5 pro with silent board.
Also the lazer engraver attachment caught my eye too.
Screwdriver
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There are so many to choose from it can be overwhelming. Cost is the biggest hurdle for me currently so that's where my attention wanders. Another parameter for a total beginner (forgive me, I have no idea whatsoever of your level of knowledge) is to go for a known good, tried and tested system with a huge number of users. I would expect the Ender 5 also fits that category but I simply don't know.
As for converting to laser engraving, well, you're on a slippery slope to driving yourself into ever decreasing circles. It is all too easy to buy a printer, start converting it, start upgrading it, print knick-knacks for it, fix all the problems you just installed, swallow a spider to catch the fly etc. etc. Take my word for it, it is easy to get started but it is a very steep learning curve depending on exactly what it is you want to do with it.
I see this a LOT on various internet sites. People buy a 3d printer just to tinker about with improving their 3d printer. Seems a bit self serving to me. If you want a printer to satisfy a specific requirement, that requirement should be determining which printer you want to get. What do you NEED one for?
As for converting to laser engraving, well, you're on a slippery slope to driving yourself into ever decreasing circles. It is all too easy to buy a printer, start converting it, start upgrading it, print knick-knacks for it, fix all the problems you just installed, swallow a spider to catch the fly etc. etc. Take my word for it, it is easy to get started but it is a very steep learning curve depending on exactly what it is you want to do with it.
I see this a LOT on various internet sites. People buy a 3d printer just to tinker about with improving their 3d printer. Seems a bit self serving to me. If you want a printer to satisfy a specific requirement, that requirement should be determining which printer you want to get. What do you NEED one for?
indy4x
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@Justme I've got the Ender 5 Plus and am very happy with it. It worked straight out of the box with no drama's or faffing.
The only downside is its a bit noisy, primarily the motors that drive the print head were playing tunes. Shouldn't be a problem with the 5 Pro as I think they are all now shipping with a silent board. It doesn't mean the printer is silent as you still have cooling fans but the stepper motors are now quiet
Even though it works out of the box I have made a few tweaks to mine, primarily to reduce noise.
The printer is in what was our spare bedroom, its now an office and work area for me and a craft room for the wife. It is directly opposite our bedroom so when runing long prints overnight and everything in the house was quiet you could 'just' hear the stepper motors singing away. Not a problem for me but wife is an incredibly light sleeper
Mine didn't come with the silent board, its about 12 months old but I have recently bought the silent board upgrade and the difference is significant, you have to keep checking that the motors are going as you just can't hear them.
The only downside is its a bit noisy, primarily the motors that drive the print head were playing tunes. Shouldn't be a problem with the 5 Pro as I think they are all now shipping with a silent board. It doesn't mean the printer is silent as you still have cooling fans but the stepper motors are now quiet
Even though it works out of the box I have made a few tweaks to mine, primarily to reduce noise.
The printer is in what was our spare bedroom, its now an office and work area for me and a craft room for the wife. It is directly opposite our bedroom so when runing long prints overnight and everything in the house was quiet you could 'just' hear the stepper motors singing away. Not a problem for me but wife is an incredibly light sleeper
Mine didn't come with the silent board, its about 12 months old but I have recently bought the silent board upgrade and the difference is significant, you have to keep checking that the motors are going as you just can't hear them.
indy4x
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@Screwdriver most of the Creality printers are very well served by the community, Ender 5 series included
Originally I bought the Copymaster 300 V2, my intention was always to buy the Ender 5 Plus but had several discussions with my BIL and he had persuaded me to go with the Copymaster. The day I ordered the Copymaster he ordered the Ender 5 Plus
Only reason he went for the 5 Plus was down to availablity (this was the start of lockdown 1 and everything was in short supply) and it was £100 cheaper at the time than the Ender 5 plus
We have compared the 2 several times and in reality there was no discernable difference between the quality or reliability of the 2 printers apart from the Ender 5 Plus has a slightly larger build plate.
We swapped a few weeks ago
Big difference in the level of community support, Enders are really well served, Copymaster not so good however I've not needed to use it for either of the printers
Originally I bought the Copymaster 300 V2, my intention was always to buy the Ender 5 Plus but had several discussions with my BIL and he had persuaded me to go with the Copymaster. The day I ordered the Copymaster he ordered the Ender 5 Plus
Only reason he went for the 5 Plus was down to availablity (this was the start of lockdown 1 and everything was in short supply) and it was £100 cheaper at the time than the Ender 5 plus
We have compared the 2 several times and in reality there was no discernable difference between the quality or reliability of the 2 printers apart from the Ender 5 Plus has a slightly larger build plate.
We swapped a few weeks ago
Big difference in the level of community support, Enders are really well served, Copymaster not so good however I've not needed to use it for either of the printers
Too long. Google it.
Ender seems to be a popular choice at that price range. Depends what plastic you want to print. PLA, PETG and ABS are the most popular.
CAD and a slicer programme.
Prepare to get frustrated. A lot.
tflnemesis
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@Justme Bed levelling and nozzle distance to bed! If you can get these right then the rest is fairly easy. 90% of my problems in the beginning were down to these 2 settings being slightly out.
Once you have mastered these you shouldn't run in to too many problems. I have 2 calibration prints i use to check bed level which are basically 150x150x 2mm X 5mm wide (internal dims are 145x145mm) using this i can normally level my bed to the nozzle in a couple of minutes.
Doesn't need to be done every time you print but changing filament type or nozzle will require it and occasionally you will want to go over every nut /bolt/ screw to check every thing is tight and run bed levelling again.
Even if it has a bed levelling sensor it is still a useful skill to learn to help consistency between parts.
Once you have mastered these you shouldn't run in to too many problems. I have 2 calibration prints i use to check bed level which are basically 150x150x 2mm X 5mm wide (internal dims are 145x145mm) using this i can normally level my bed to the nozzle in a couple of minutes.
Doesn't need to be done every time you print but changing filament type or nozzle will require it and occasionally you will want to go over every nut /bolt/ screw to check every thing is tight and run bed levelling again.
Even if it has a bed levelling sensor it is still a useful skill to learn to help consistency between parts.
DAPPH
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What is this silent board you talk of ? Is it a circuit board or a soft noise absorbing fibre / foam / soft polystyrene board the printer sits upon to reduce noise .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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So using the boards.. does that also mean you have a much more congested printing mesh with increased reference printings points or is it just the stepper motor steps happening in many micro steps giving the end result of a smoother less noisy motion or both ?
indy4x
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@carbon I went the easy route and just bought a complete board, drop in and job done. I did look at other options but decided they were too much faff.
I am on a mission now to make it as quiet as possible as I do work in the room and trying to have a Teams meeting with the fans going is not ideal
Next on the hit list is a silent power supply and larger quieter fan for the box that holds this and all the electronics
Again, it's one of them things that aren't essential but a nice to do
I am on a mission now to make it as quiet as possible as I do work in the room and trying to have a Teams meeting with the fans going is not ideal
Next on the hit list is a silent power supply and larger quieter fan for the box that holds this and all the electronics
Again, it's one of them things that aren't essential but a nice to do
