- Thread starter Screwdriver
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mtt.tr
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that should be big enoughI'm currently putting a new Modix printer together. It has a build volume of 1.2x0,6x0,6 meter
I also have the ender 5 and i put a silent board / driver in it myself.
The one thing i would strongly recommend is a sensor for bed leveling. Its easy to install, you just have to activate it in the software. there are plenty of tutorials on you tube and info on Reddit.
The other recommendation i would make is to print two support arms for the bed, they make a huge difference to the bed stability. Link
I would get some experience with the printer before adding a laser.
Let me know if you need any help.
Paul
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Ah got you... having got a genuine Prusa original from Joe Prusa I don't have that noise problem .
indy4x
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Would love to see that buildI'm currently putting a new Modix printer together. It has a build volume of 1.2x0,6x0,6 meter
Screwdriver
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Let's hope they don't make an Ender 7. This could go on forever...
I have an ender 3 V2, went for the V2 for the 32bit board and silent drivers. One thing to be aware of is the 24v fans, they are a bit noisy and if you want to upgrade to quiet ones they are harder to find at 24v ill probably use buck converters when I do it.
The stock springs are soft, these hold the bed level against the adjusting stops. Upgrade to the stiffer ones and you will find the bed stays level longer. I added the BL Touch which also improved print quality, it measures the bed forming a matrix map of it stored in the firmware then you add code to your Gcode so it compensates the z axis as it prints across the bed. Made a big improvement to quality even with a very level bed I also found I could print reliably at high speed with it.
I also added a raspberry Pi as a controller (via octo print) so I can control it remotely and view the print progress remotely via a camera.
The stock springs are soft, these hold the bed level against the adjusting stops. Upgrade to the stiffer ones and you will find the bed stays level longer. I added the BL Touch which also improved print quality, it measures the bed forming a matrix map of it stored in the firmware then you add code to your Gcode so it compensates the z axis as it prints across the bed. Made a big improvement to quality even with a very level bed I also found I could print reliably at high speed with it.
I also added a raspberry Pi as a controller (via octo print) so I can control it remotely and view the print progress remotely via a camera.
Or an Ender Core X Y.
Chris Snow
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May be worth looking at resin printers like anycubic phonton depending on what sort of stuff you want to print.
AndersK
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Photo ban unfortunately
But plenty info here.
Tech Specs Generation 4 – Modix Large 3D Printers
www.modix3d.com
8ob
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A quick question for you 3D printerists. I want to build a sealed fireproof cupboard for my Creality cr10s S5, is there a maximum temperature these things can or should run at? It will obviously need ventilation of some sort but how much is too much?
Bob
Bob
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8ob
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daedalusminos
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You'll find more problems with temperature variation affecting print quality than anything else. A constant ambient temperature is required to obtain high quality consistent prints - especially where sensitive materials/design are involved.
Parm
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Just some general stuff on ventilation from heat generating processes
the head will be around 200c. Any fume generated will rise upwards.
usually the best arrangement is to build an enclosure, the ones I’ve seen at Buxton are 5mm Perspex on that extruded aluminium stuff making a frame work. They have this so all panels are easily removable.
the trick with the ventilation is to have the fan at the top to take advantage of the thermal bouancy of the hot air generated inside the enclosure. You’d be surprised at how small a fan you can get away with when you use the situation to your advantage. i don’t know the size of your printer but I’d guess that a 100mm square generic computer fan will be more than sufficient. They move a lot of air for what they are
drill some holes at the bottom of one panel and this will provide a balance for intake air, ensuring you get airflow in one direction only
im pretty sure our boffins will confirm this
the head will be around 200c. Any fume generated will rise upwards.
usually the best arrangement is to build an enclosure, the ones I’ve seen at Buxton are 5mm Perspex on that extruded aluminium stuff making a frame work. They have this so all panels are easily removable.
the trick with the ventilation is to have the fan at the top to take advantage of the thermal bouancy of the hot air generated inside the enclosure. You’d be surprised at how small a fan you can get away with when you use the situation to your advantage. i don’t know the size of your printer but I’d guess that a 100mm square generic computer fan will be more than sufficient. They move a lot of air for what they are
drill some holes at the bottom of one panel and this will provide a balance for intake air, ensuring you get airflow in one direction only
im pretty sure our boffins will confirm this
