What 3D printer...

[Screwdriver]

Incidentally, if such a thing does not exist, your grandchild should definitely be making one. It is precisely the sort of simple gadget that might end up on Dragons Den.

 

[Seadog]

Or JVC

 

[DAPPH]

I tried printing an object and then drilling a hole in it for speed and snapped two drills. I THINK the plastic melted and then solidified when I stopped and next time I pulled the trigger "ping"

SO..who is around that can help me out quickly...lol
I need a hole put through a dibber.... My grandson has come up with the design after seeing me print one for my wife. he reckons you can drop seeds down it as my wife only has the use of one arm and when she pulls out the dibber the hole collapses. He needs it for an invention project tomorrow..Thats my problem.

View attachment 280801

The dibber hole will fill with soil . I had to use a broom stick with an adjustable depth collar to make the holes and a bit of aluminium mm pipe 1.2 mtrs longs to sow seeds for years before I got partly successful back surgery . Having 900 mm high raised beds built in red engineering brick 15 years ago That means I don't use them these days but I do have a set of foot square ridge free Perspex plastic masks that have 5 , 6 12 or 16 half inch dia equally spaced holes in them so I can sprinkle a few seeds on the mask on the square foot grid over the raised bed , then resting on the walling , using one finger stroke a single seed into each hole . Sieve fine dried soil over the seeds lift the mask & give a very fine light mist spray the area .
EDIT
Using plastic tends to bring in static electricity problems holding fine seeds in the tube , add a smidgeon of moisture from the soil and even cabbage seeds will stick in the tubes .
I've had all manner of syringe type or dial the seeds size seed sowers over they years none were any good. So I've made my own vacuum pump seed sower for individually sowing anything smaller than a pea seed ... one at a time in pots/trays so the seedlings can be grown in a heated bed in the glasshouse and then planted out after the l st frost .

When drilling use wood or plastic drills with a well defined center start point and drill at a slower speed so as not to melt the plastics . " Mannesmann Professional Wood Drill Set in Plastic Box (8 Pieces): Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools " are the sort of drills I'm talking of . If possible use a drill press & clam the work piece down as it helps stop the bit suddenly biting ( common with a battery hand held drill etc. )

 

[DAPPH]

Much easier with these plastics to use a heated element to push through. Barely needs to be above boiling point. Boil a suitably sized rod in a cup of water and shove it through.

Anyhow, it's a concept piece isn't it? Still need to solve the problem of dirt finding its way up the hole. Would be easy to design a compliant mechanism which shuts off the hole when you press down and opens it as you lift but then I don't know what the age of your grandchild is.

<edit> Something like this...

Look at a mounting a cylindrical saccharine tablet click to dispense device to the dibber handle to hopefully put in one or two seeds with each click , down the dibber hole you've made Could be problematic with carrot seeds or smaller ones .

 

[Screwdriver]

It's not my invention. The "inventive" part is generally the concept, making a thing which satisfies those requirements is the fun part.

I would naturally be happy to help (I think it's a really good idea!) but I haven't been asked and I wouldn't want to hijack it.

 

[ukracer]

It's not my invention. The "inventive" part is generally the concept, making a thing which satisfies those requirements is the fun part.

I would naturally be happy to help (I think it's a really good idea!) but I haven't been asked and I wouldn't want to hijack it.

It's not an issue. It was a school project that we were not aware about. Grandson is 7 so he only thinks about nintendo switches..lol. It was something we spoke about as my wife was planting seeds after I collected him and she was using her finger to make hole and he joked about needing a hole in a finger to drop a seed down. Asked how we were going to do that ....he said you can print one on your machine.. lol.
I do agree about it's going to stick in the tube etc etc etc but if they can get just one tomato seed to grow it will have been worth the effort. It was about inventions and 6 and 7 year olds.

 

[DAPPH]

Forgot to say tomato seeds tend to stick in all manner of tubes... guess how I found out ? .

Instead simply cut a 1/4 " thick slice off the equator area of a well ripe red tomato ensuring it's full of seeds ( do this about the end of March )
Then using a washed out grape or tomato punnet etc with drain holes in it lay it on a two inch bed of decent sieved loam , cover it with 1/2 inch of fine dry sifted loam , place it on a north facing warm room window cill or heated growing bed , Fine lightly spray mist it to stop it drying out and watch the patch of seedlings grow in about 10 days . Carefully prick them out for potting on when are about 2" tall when they have got a full grown second leaf set .
Laying as much of the stem in a shallow trench as you dare without breaking the stem
When it comes to potting out the six inch tall plants do this again , taking care once more not to break the stem. Over the next few days training the new growth up a stake or rope will see the seedling develop a nice long thin root system . This will give the plant a massive 6 inch or so long root system laid on its side and make for a very strong plant that takes a plant feed solution very well .

 

[Justme]

They are done.

Where to guv?

Arrived today.

Big thanks

They fit better than the original ones with no slop.

 

[Screwdriver]

DISASTER!

Not quite my first foray into ABS, tried this roll of filament a few times now. First time, no bed adhesion, overnight print, tangled mess. I put it down to "one of those things" and tried again.

Next time, same result except, like the above, not only did I get a tangled mess but the nozzle jammed and superheated ABS burned its way through the Bowden tube forming a solid lump around the entire head. I figure the molten plastic acted as an insulator allowing the head to overheat, displace the Bowden tube and cause havoc. Changed the tube (which had a burned hole), replaced the tip for the first time after 3-4 rolls and called it fixed.

It was fixed too. Finished off my last roll of black PETG and loaded up ABS again. Same problem as you see above. Bad timing because I really need to crank out some more parts. Last time I had to pre heat the printer head with it hanging off wires because this stuff sets like glass!

Wish me luck.

 

[ukracer]

DISASTER!

Not quite my first foray into ABS, tried this roll of filament a few times now. First time, no bed adhesion, overnight print, tangled mess. I put it down to "one of those things" and tried again.

Next time, same result except, like the above, not only did I get a tangled mess but the nozzle jammed and superheated ABS burned its way through the Bowden tube forming a solid lump around the entire head. I figure the molten plastic acted as an insulator allowing the head to overheat, displace the Bowden tube and cause havoc. Changed the tube (which had a burned hole), replaced the tip for the first time after 3-4 rolls and called it fixed.

It was fixed too. Finished off my last roll of black PETG and loaded up ABS again. Same problem as you see above. Bad timing because I really need to crank out some more parts. Last time I had to pre heat the printer head with it hanging off wires because this stuff sets like glass!

Wish me luck.

Have you got a glass bed?

If so cut some ABS into inch long bits and put about 3 metres into a jar with acetone.
Then paint it on your bed. Needs to be a slurry for good adhesion.

I also print with a wind sheild round what I am printing. I think the option is a cura setting...but you could just design one before you slice.

 

[Screwdriver]

Have you got a glass bed?

If so cut some ABS into inch long bits and put about 3 metres into a jar with acetone.
Then paint it on your bed. Needs to be a slurry for good adhesion.

I also print with a wind sheild round what I am printing. I think the option is a cura setting...but you could just design one before you slice.

Yeah, I need better adhesion. Got one cooking at the moment which has peeled up all around the edge. I'll leave it to finish this time then give up.

Needs a tent at least for ABS, more bed temperature than I am comfortable with and I'll experiment with slurry as you suggest. This design could also benefit from a raft but I am reluctant to invest too much more time or plastic into this part. It is an experimental Kindle mount and this is only the second iteration so it probably won't be the final version of it anyway.

<edit> oh, and it really stinks too so unless I see some amazing advantage to ABS beyond my determination not to be beaten by a machine, I'll probably revert to PETG.

 

[pcwizme]

Yeah, I need better adhesion. Got one cooking at the moment which has peeled up all around the edge. I'll leave it to finish this time then give up.

Needs a tent at least for ABS, more bed temperature than I am comfortable with and I'll experiment with slurry as you suggest. This design could also benefit from a raft but I am reluctant to invest too much more time or plastic into this part. It is an experimental Kindle mount and this is only the second iteration so it probably won't be the final version of it anyway.

<edit> oh, and it really stinks too so unless I see some amazing advantage to ABS beyond my determination not to be beaten by a machine, I'll probably revert to PETG.

I dont bother with ABS, PLA for testing and PETG for actual models, it has most the benifits of abs with next to none of the issues

 

[Screwdriver]

I dont bother with ABS, PLA for testing and PETG for actual models, it has most the benifits of abs with next to none of the issues

I bought a reel just to give it a go. Only ever used PETG since I got the machine. I think I’ll be sticking to PETG for the foreseeable. Would be interested to hear from anyone who has found a distinct advantage, “found” as in personal experience of. I can Google the tech info or wade through interminable YouTubery.

 

[ukracer]

I dont bother with ABS, PLA for testing and PETG for actual models, it has most the benifits of abs with next to none of the issues

Except stringing....

 

[Maker]

Would be interested to hear from anyone who has found a distinct advantage, “found” as in personal experience of.

I've *found* ABS to be a massive pain in the grass. Kept warping and layers separating. We were hoping the higher working temperature than PLA would be helpful for something but after all the problems, it melted anyway.

 

[AndersK]

Except stringing...

This was my first print on nearly a year. Easy to think this was the last with all spider web
Need to relearn to print petg...

 

[daedalusminos]

Just set the slicer option 'do not cross perimeters' - that will get rid of 99% of that

 

[Screwdriver]

This was my first print on nearly a year. Easy to think this was the last with all spider web
Need to relearn to print petg...
View attachment 281920

otherwise a nice looking print, you can dial that out with a bit of experimentation.

what is your preferred post process? I have started using a small but powerful jet torch. Seriously considering having a go at copper plating for deserving parts.

 

[AndersK]

Just set the slicer option 'do not cross perimeters' - that will get rid of 99% of that

I usually run with the "Not in skin" selected, may have to try the stricter "Within Infil". I ddint notice this much travelling in the preview so I might have missed some setting.

what is your preferred post process? I have started using a small but powerful jet torch. Seriously considering having a go at copper plating for deserving parts.

400 grit paper, and a cigarette lighter

 

[Screwdriver]

This one is a heartbreaker.

Nice looking part for an art installation. Client wants transparent/opaque so I bought a new reel of Filatech. After some experimentation with temps and bed height etc. four and a half hours later:

So I multiply the item to leave four more to cook and...

Nope. First layer will not stick. Those little round cutouts are the culprit. They ping off, jam up the nozzle and drag everything off the bed.

so I try again

And again

I won't bore you (any further) but eventually by early morning after an all nighter, I thought I had it nailed.

Nope.

Too risky if one fails they all fail. So I bite the bullet, edit settings to print a raft and go for one at a time.

Have to babysit the print until it gets past the danger zone which takes ages with a raft. Finally retire to bed.

Next morning all excited, find this.

Not a grat start to Sunday and it looks like it got way past where I thought it could possibly fail.

Looks like 4-5 layers into the actual part.

There must be an issue with this filament because I have never experienced so many fails. Tried glass bed, fibre bed, varying bed temps 70ºC - 85ºC, nozzle 240ºC - 245ºC, pure IPA wipe down, pritstick glue, can't get it to stick.

Anyone have any more suggestions? I have already destroyed the OEM fibre bed. Excessive cleaning off the glue and I cut a gouge right through the middle. Glass bed only from now on.