daedalusminos
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What's the material?
- Thread starter Screwdriver
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Screwdriver
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Filatech PETG natural colour.
One thing I did notice with this filament is that you can see the serrations from the extruder driver teeth as the plastic exits the nozzle.
One thing I did notice with this filament is that you can see the serrations from the extruder driver teeth as the plastic exits the nozzle.
daedalusminos
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What temps? I'd start at manufacturers recommendations but would think somewhere in the region 250/90.
Screwdriver
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I have only ever printed with PETG (except for a brief foray into ABS). Pretty sure I tried every combination of settings including 220ºC and 85ºC bed.
I'm going to see if I can make up a new type of bed from steel sheet and paint. Meanwihile I have ordered up a sticker to repair the OEM fibre plate. There's probably a million DIY bed plate "solutions" but I need to get this out of the door asap. If someone has a tried and tested DIY bed plate be glad to hear it.
I'm going to see if I can make up a new type of bed from steel sheet and paint. Meanwihile I have ordered up a sticker to repair the OEM fibre plate. There's probably a million DIY bed plate "solutions" but I need to get this out of the door asap. If someone has a tried and tested DIY bed plate be glad to hear it.
AndersK
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Even if it's new filament drying the roll can help, moisture is your enemy and some filaments are very sensitive to that.
Second, how do you apply the glue?
A good way to do this is first lay a few strikes of glue then smear it out to a thin even layer with a wet rag. Heat the bed and let it dry. Nylon is very sensitive to this, too much glue and it won't stick.
The only transparent filament I have used is Taulman T-glase but didn't have anywhere near your issues.
Second, how do you apply the glue?
A good way to do this is first lay a few strikes of glue then smear it out to a thin even layer with a wet rag. Heat the bed and let it dry. Nylon is very sensitive to this, too much glue and it won't stick.
The only transparent filament I have used is Taulman T-glase but didn't have anywhere near your issues.
carbon
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I use similar temps 80 bed and 245 extruder but find different filaments need slightly different temps, I don't print above 50mm/s for petg but print the first layer at 20% of that.
daedalusminos
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Prior to using the Prusa coated Flexi sheets, I used to print on Kapton tape covered with PVA slurry
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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My lad just did a little ABS print just using 3D Lac on a borosilicate glass plate(don't ask how much) clipped atop the Anycubic Ultrabase. Came out fine, no enclosure either.
www.3djake.uk
Spray Adhesive 400 ml
For perfect adhesion to the printing bed. Price: £6.70 when you purchase 2 items. Content: 400 ml. 386 Customer Reviews. Delivery in 5 days.
www.3djake.uk
I've got a prusa and I suffered from a lot of unevenness in the bed. As if the surface was warped all over with random hills and valleys. The extent of it could be seen when printing a first layer calibration, as parts of it were more opaque than others, like they weren't stuck down. Edges would lift and parts would break away.
The solution was to sand the entire bed with 400 to level it off and give it a key. This fixed all my first layer problems immediately. I think the bed has a layer of PEI on top so this was doable.
Other solutions that may help you would be to adjust the speed of the first layer. Try fast Vs slow. I found that a slow printing speed could lead to extrusion and bed adherence issues, and a faster speed could be more favourable.
You could also try printing infill first, followed by the perimeters to give them something to stick to.
Have you experimented with first layer height?
The solution was to sand the entire bed with 400 to level it off and give it a key. This fixed all my first layer problems immediately. I think the bed has a layer of PEI on top so this was doable.
Other solutions that may help you would be to adjust the speed of the first layer. Try fast Vs slow. I found that a slow printing speed could lead to extrusion and bed adherence issues, and a faster speed could be more favourable.
You could also try printing infill first, followed by the perimeters to give them something to stick to.
Have you experimented with first layer height?
Bladevane
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@Screwdriver - I appreciate there is probably a good reason to use PETG but I have had brilliant results with Filamentive transparent PLA. I am happy to try one for you if you wanted to send the STL over by PM.
That's what I use for PLA and acetone/abs slurry for ABS Pro.
Screwdriver
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Sometimes I surprise myself...
It had not occurred to me that Pritstik might be water soluble. DOH! Thanks a million @AndersK looks like that has worked a treat. Currently printing a one off but am considering a multiple 12 hour print if this one works.
I have also modified the top bottom layer pattern to concentric which I hope should help with those little holes.
Washing the plate off with water and using a watery slurry of Pritstik has definitely left a lovely smooth sticky surface. Looks like this might even work.
@Bladevane fantastic offer many thanks but I have to be able to make this work myself. One of these days I will try PLA especially if I start getting more "speciality" filament requests. Meantime, while I am relatively flush having sold an entire motorcycle, I am battling against the temptation to buy another printer...
It had not occurred to me that Pritstik might be water soluble. DOH! Thanks a million @AndersK looks like that has worked a treat. Currently printing a one off but am considering a multiple 12 hour print if this one works.
I have also modified the top bottom layer pattern to concentric which I hope should help with those little holes.
Washing the plate off with water and using a watery slurry of Pritstik has definitely left a lovely smooth sticky surface. Looks like this might even work.
@Bladevane fantastic offer many thanks but I have to be able to make this work myself. One of these days I will try PLA especially if I start getting more "speciality" filament requests. Meantime, while I am relatively flush having sold an entire motorcycle, I am battling against the temptation to buy another printer...
AndersK
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Happy with it overall? I'm very tempted to buy one for home use
Does the prusa probe the bed to get a surface map?
Ah well there's a can of worms...
I have a mk2s so it's a few years old. Tbh it was crap out of the box. I had to upgrade it with a 'bear' kit and Misumi rods and bearings to make it useable. I've got it to a point where it's spot on now, but it took some effort. Yes it does probe the bed, but in my case I'm not sure if it made a difference.
I've heard good things about the later ones though, I think they're pretty much good from the get go, but you do pay for it.
I have a mk2s so it's a few years old. Tbh it was crap out of the box. I had to upgrade it with a 'bear' kit and Misumi rods and bearings to make it useable. I've got it to a point where it's spot on now, but it took some effort. Yes it does probe the bed, but in my case I'm not sure if it made a difference.
I've heard good things about the later ones though, I think they're pretty much good from the get go, but you do pay for it.
daedalusminos
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Yes, the Mk3s (I think there's a + version now) has mesh bed levelling, I have absolutely no problems printing over the entire area.
Screwdriver
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Just for fun I set up a live stream in YouTube.
Bladevane
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@AndersK - I bought a Prusa Mk3S in November and was very impressed with the functions, ease of use including calibration etc. Since then I have bought a Caribou 320 with 10mm rods, pillow blocks on the Y axis and longer Misumi bearings on the Z axis and upper X position. The Caribou is a lot more stable, because it has the extruded section frame, and with the 10mm rods/bearings does not suffer from the slight rumble I have with the Prusa X and Y when moving slowly. You pay for both though. Neither have been trouble free but I believe you get what you pay for and for me some of the enjoyment is resolving issues to the point where printing has become reliable so I can start a print, ensure the first couple of layers are good then leave them to print without babysitting them all the time. The textured PEI sheets (I have a Thekkiinngg one and a third party one) do require a slightly higher negative Z setting to squish the filament into the textured surface. I also use 3DLAC plus for printing PLA. It's pricey but you don't need much.
mtt.tr
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Have you tried cleaning the nozzle?This one is a heartbreaker.
Nice looking part for an art installation. Client wants transparent/opaque so I bought a new reel of Filatech. After some experimentation with temps and bed height etc. four and a half hours later:
So I multiply the item to leave four more to cook and...
Nope. First layer will not stick. Those little round cutouts are the culprit. They ping off, jam up the nozzle and drag everything off the bed.
so I try again
And again
I won't bore you (any further) but eventually by early morning after an all nighter, I thought I had it nailed.
Nope.
Too risky if one fails they all fail. So I bite the bullet, edit settings to print a raft and go for one at a time.
Have to babysit the print until it gets past the danger zone which takes ages with a raft. Finally retire to bed.
Next morning all excited, find this.
Not a grat start to Sunday and it looks like it got way past where I thought it could possibly fail.
Looks like 4-5 layers into the actual part.
There must be an issue with this filament because I have never experienced so many fails. Tried glass bed, fibre bed, varying bed temps 70ºC - 85ºC, nozzle 240ºC - 245ºC, pure IPA wipe down, pritstick glue, can't get it to stick.
Anyone have any more suggestions? I have already destroyed the OEM fibre bed. Excessive cleaning off the glue and I cut a gouge right through the middle. Glass bed only from now on.
