If you feed from the low side first, yes. If it does it both ways then something is loose.I can see that , but surely the cutter would be lower one side so only cut once ?
What he said.If you feed from the low side first, yes. If it does it both ways then something is loose.
Aand, as @Scalarocco alluded to - something loose - that could be the quill bearing, allowing a few thou of quill float. Easy to check, dti vertically up underneath it, and use a suitable knee and lever to try to apply some lift.What he said.
However, it's also worth noting that with a fly cutter with a reasonably amount of stick-out and a relatively slim diameter cutter, there may be a (very) little bit of flex in the bit. That could result in it taking what is effectively a spring pass on the second edge, even if your head is perfectly trammed. If that's the case then to get rid of it completely you'd have to deliberately tilt the head (by a fraction of a degree) to lift the trailing edge slightly.
I'm only roughing it at the moment , will take tips on board thanksUnless your intending a rough finish I'd also suggest a much more rounded tip tool. Thats a very sharp pointy one and you'd need to feed extremely slow to avoid lines.
I had great results with the cheap 50mm facemills and alu inserts.
How many cuts or did you do it in one?I needed some reduced-diameter head screws for a fixture and, while I was at it, I made 60 of them to keep me going.
Before (above) and after (below):
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It's jobs like this that make picking the right tool important: this tool was perfect as I could skim the outside diameter then move it in and right to deburr the back edge, using the cross-slide dial and the trav-a-dial for consistency:
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Also helped having a mandrel that had a fairly deep over-diameter bore so that the screws are only threaded into the mandrel for about 6 mm (hence speeding up the process of putting them in and taking them out). Took me just over 1/2 hour to do 60 screws.
Just one pass. Move the cross slide to 0, hit the power feed, wait, release the power feed, move the cross slide in to 1.8ish, turn the carriage handle back until the trav-a-dial read 0. Rinse and repeat.How many cuts or did you do it in one?
You know it’s a tourist when your bike gets nicked and the plod recover it from the heather sans mirrorsI have DoubleTake mirrors on my bike and they come with wing nuts which are not the most secure as anyone could easily unscrew and nick them, we get a lot of tourists up this way
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I ordered some pin-lock ones from Amazon and before I bought it said they would be delivered today but as soon as I bought they said they would let me know the expected delivery by email. I still hadn't got an email last night so I cancelled them and drew some up in Fusion, I then machined and anodised them today, didn't need to make two keys but thought I might as well as they didn't take long to machine.
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Fitted to the mirror with the key inserted.
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Key removed once tightened.
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Pic of them on the bike. The outer shells just spin so you can't undo by grabbing that and turning.
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You know it’s a tourist when your bike gets nicked and the plod recover it from the heather sans mirrors
Knowing the police they will give you a crime number and thats it.Knowing the UK police they will recover the mirrors but not the bike
I had thought of that but didn't have any Acetal to make them with except some 200mm dia bits and it would break my heart to machine that down to 30mm dia@Hood. They would look good with plugs.