The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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You have to ask?Are you mad woman?
- Thread starter slim_boy_fat
- Start date
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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No , lube aluminium with WD 40 or paraffin to take the heat away from the drill tip
indy4x
Forum Supporter
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
They are indeed, had one last Christmas as a pressie to myself, actually did a complete fluid change on my new to me Jeep which I probably would not have done without the pressure bleederThe pump up pressure bleeders are a joy to use. I was looking for cars to do a fluid change on after I got mine
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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- Kent UK
Not broken as such, but ........
I am rebuilding the gearbox on my Renault Master. The gearboxes have a reputation for burning out their bearings, so while doing the clutch, I thought I would change all the bearings.
I replaced the bearings like for like, they are all opposed taper rollers on three shafts plus the diff. The bearing preload is adjusted by a selective shim washer. When I bolted the case halves back together, the whole thing locked solid, which is strange, as nothing has changed.
In order to test the preload without pressing the bearing tracks in and pulling them out again, I came up with the idea of grinding some of the OD off the best of one of the old bearing tracks, so it would slide in and out easily, allowing me to try different shims.
Anyways, I pulled out one of the new bearing tracks, and put it on the bench, then picked up the old one to grind. Just then the phone rang, so put it down to answer it. Nothing important, just an ex work colleague wanting a chat. Half an hour later, picked up the bearing and started grinding. When I went to try it in the housing, I realised I had picked up the new one in error.
A £30 mistake, plus having to wait to get a replacement.
I am rebuilding the gearbox on my Renault Master. The gearboxes have a reputation for burning out their bearings, so while doing the clutch, I thought I would change all the bearings.
I replaced the bearings like for like, they are all opposed taper rollers on three shafts plus the diff. The bearing preload is adjusted by a selective shim washer. When I bolted the case halves back together, the whole thing locked solid, which is strange, as nothing has changed.
In order to test the preload without pressing the bearing tracks in and pulling them out again, I came up with the idea of grinding some of the OD off the best of one of the old bearing tracks, so it would slide in and out easily, allowing me to try different shims.
Anyways, I pulled out one of the new bearing tracks, and put it on the bench, then picked up the old one to grind. Just then the phone rang, so put it down to answer it. Nothing important, just an ex work colleague wanting a chat. Half an hour later, picked up the bearing and started grinding. When I went to try it in the housing, I realised I had picked up the new one in error.
A £30 mistake, plus having to wait to get a replacement.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- 7,035
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I always put taken off stuff in tins & boxes top help stop doing that .
It’s only a centre drill, in out three times done. Heat where?
dobbslc
Member
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The pump up pressure bleeders are a joy to use. I was looking for cars to do a fluid change on after I got mine
I've got this on my watch list now...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37492406...wL8bw-1Q5S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYEdit:
It's not what you first thought either!
MattF
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Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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I always start with the best intentions .............
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- 7,035
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
The area of the 25 mm handle was where it had been formed to a 90 degree bend . I cut most of it out , perhaps the bit I didn't cut was highly stressed. The centre point had barely reached the increased cutting chamfer diameter & yes it was given several kisses in & out as well as two or three drops of WD40 ,.
The actual centre point drill tip was only 2 mm dia so perhaps that's part of the problem , I'll be darn wary when using of the rest of the batch of five assorted sizes from now on that's for sure .
roblane65
Member
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This afternoon in a brain fart moment I managed to crunch the N/S front corner of my traffic into a steel bollard 
mostly plastic damage but ........... in the N/s front corner is the electric p/ steering pump , I'd managed to bend back both support brackets enough that is was pushing the wheel arch liner on to the wheel . There was no driving it other than in a straight line ! ,so wheel off liner ripped out and some well placed banging and bending with a 4' crowbar and a mash hammer the pump was near enough where it should be a few well placed self tapppers and gaffer tape and a after a little over an hour I was on me way home . Bumper s probably salvageable and ill need a new liner . I was very p****ed off and soaking wet so I hope you'll forgive no pictures , I'll have to sort it properly when the weathers better .
mostly plastic damage but ........... in the N/s front corner is the electric p/ steering pump , I'd managed to bend back both support brackets enough that is was pushing the wheel arch liner on to the wheel . There was no driving it other than in a straight line ! ,so wheel off liner ripped out and some well placed banging and bending with a 4' crowbar and a mash hammer the pump was near enough where it should be a few well placed self tapppers and gaffer tape and a after a little over an hour I was on me way home . Bumper s probably salvageable and ill need a new liner . I was very p****ed off and soaking wet so I hope you'll forgive no pictures , I'll have to sort it properly when the weathers better .
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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My Trafic (now sold) had an engine driven pump, so I guess yours is quite new ? I don't understand why they put this fairly essential stuff in such a vulnerable place.This afternoon in a brain fart moment I managed to crunch the N/S front corner of my traffic into a steel bollard
roblane65
Member
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Mines an early mk3 15 plate I suppose the more stuff they get of or away from the engine the less space they need for it , there's not a lot of space in the engine bay for owt .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Never heard of JB metal weld repairs ??? . Drill the closed end of the crack to stop the stress running further , fill the crack with JB weld putty. glue and use a strong hose clip or several individual strongish twisted wires to pull the sides closer, then let it cure for a few days in the airing cupboard Perhaps also wrap some of that wire & more JB weld round the repair to reinforce the area .
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
After many years of good service.
The magic smoke escaped.
Half way through making pizza dough.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I dismantled one years ago to put the smoke back in, I couldn't believe how absolutely disgusting it was inside, years worth of food residue and carbon brush dust.
Can't remember if I ever did put it back together, I might have just binned it.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
We have an original 1960's A1 Kenwood chef mixer in blue & white , I stripped it cleaned & serviced it 10 - 11 yrs ago it's magic .. I'd love to get the grinder attachment for it . Yes the internals were full of caked up flour and armour plated with sponge mix splashes .etc. .
I've 2 broken kenwoods belonging to my sister & Mum in my workshop waiting for repair.
Knowing the speed I work at they have bought new ones!
