Bill Edwards
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When you weld are you pushing the gun in a straight line or weaving it from side to side? And what amperage is the machine?
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ned
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both sides are welded.
the chassis tubes interrupt the joint, this is as much as i can do on all four sides
the amp knob is broken on my welder. I need to take it apart and fix the knob. I might be able to get one in maplin. I'm going to grind those down, redo them, and this time burn into the walls.
the chassis tubes interrupt the joint, this is as much as i can do on all four sides
the amp knob is broken on my welder. I need to take it apart and fix the knob. I might be able to get one in maplin. I'm going to grind those down, redo them, and this time burn into the walls.
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Bill Edwards
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I don't like to be the gloom and doom man, but...
You shouldn't be using a weave for something like this, certainly not on the root run. It should be a straight stringer root (i.e no torch manipulation) with the torch pushed (i.e pointing in the direction you're travelling). Then, if extra reinforcement is needed (which this probably does) additional runs can be added, for optimal strength these should also be stringers. Weaving can be used for the second pass but it's usually not as strong as stringers would be, it takes very little to get it wrong and is best avoided for diy work.
I hate to say it as I like the project so far and understand this won't be something you want to hear, but I wouldn't trust those welds at all; my advice is to grind them out and redo them. My question on the amps is asking how big is the machine, i.e its maximum output? A problem with MIG is that if you don't have sufficient power for the thickness of metal it will still lay a pretty bead but it won't penetrate properly and will just be sat on the surface - known as a cold weld.
Someone else may be able to give precise figures, but for 10mm steel I think around 200a would be needed.
You shouldn't be using a weave for something like this, certainly not on the root run. It should be a straight stringer root (i.e no torch manipulation) with the torch pushed (i.e pointing in the direction you're travelling). Then, if extra reinforcement is needed (which this probably does) additional runs can be added, for optimal strength these should also be stringers. Weaving can be used for the second pass but it's usually not as strong as stringers would be, it takes very little to get it wrong and is best avoided for diy work.
I hate to say it as I like the project so far and understand this won't be something you want to hear, but I wouldn't trust those welds at all; my advice is to grind them out and redo them. My question on the amps is asking how big is the machine, i.e its maximum output? A problem with MIG is that if you don't have sufficient power for the thickness of metal it will still lay a pretty bead but it won't penetrate properly and will just be sat on the surface - known as a cold weld.
Someone else may be able to give precise figures, but for 10mm steel I think around 200a would be needed.
ned
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nono, thats great man, exactly what i wanted to hear. I have 170 amps. I'll do the stringer thing. They are actually fun to do if you get them right.
hold up though, ill draw it, give me a few mins
___________________________
K. am I to arrange the stringers like this?
Or should stringer number 2 try to completely cover the one before it...
My machine wont do that. I dont think thats happening.
Also, 1 other consideration, its wrecking my head. If i do a complete stringer run into one side of that plate it will pull in that direction.
If it ends up pulling to an angle other than 90 it wont sit right, against the chassis tubes.
I can do tacks on the other side then grind them off I guess.
hold up though, ill draw it, give me a few mins
___________________________
K. am I to arrange the stringers like this?
Or should stringer number 2 try to completely cover the one before it...
My machine wont do that. I dont think thats happening.
Also, 1 other consideration, its wrecking my head. If i do a complete stringer run into one side of that plate it will pull in that direction.
If it ends up pulling to an angle other than 90 it wont sit right, against the chassis tubes.
I can do tacks on the other side then grind them off I guess.
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Bill Edwards
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The stringers don't completely cover the previous run, aim to overlap it by half - i.e aim at the toe of the last weld.
As for the weld pulling the metal out of line there are two ways to manage this. The first is tacking it as you've figured, if you hear a crack while you weld STOP, it's the tack breaking and it's easier to deal with it sooner rather than later.
The other way is to pre set it so it pulls straight as you weld, but this is harder to get right as it has to be learned through experience.
As for the weld pulling the metal out of line there are two ways to manage this. The first is tacking it as you've figured, if you hear a crack while you weld STOP, it's the tack breaking and it's easier to deal with it sooner rather than later.
The other way is to pre set it so it pulls straight as you weld, but this is harder to get right as it has to be learned through experience.
Bill Edwards
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I'm not sure what the knob is, or its importance?
If it's the power, it doesn't matter for this job, it needs to be cranked right up, you need every bit of power possible for that thickness, I'd say 170 amps is a little bit borderline.
If it's the power, it doesn't matter for this job, it needs to be cranked right up, you need every bit of power possible for that thickness, I'd say 170 amps is a little bit borderline.
ned
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amps yeah. I bodged a lever for the knob. Have been playing around on scrap, with mixed results. I tried to max out the welder but it blew the 13 amp fuse immediately.
I also realised I cant see properly as the lenses in my mask are dirty and scratched, so I've changed them out and now its like new again.
I dont think ill be able to max out the welder with my household power supply, but I'll give it another go.
I also realised I cant see properly as the lenses in my mask are dirty and scratched, so I've changed them out and now its like new again.
I dont think ill be able to max out the welder with my household power supply, but I'll give it another go.
Bill Edwards
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A bit concerning, you do need all the power for the thicker stuff or you run the risk of a cold weld that's sat on top of the metal with zero penetration.
Are you running the welder off extension cables, that can make it worse for blowing fuses?
It may be that your machine is supposed to have a 16a supply using the blue 16a plugs so a 13a fuse could be on its limit.
I can't suggest using a nail in place of the fuse
Are you running the welder off extension cables, that can make it worse for blowing fuses?
It may be that your machine is supposed to have a 16a supply using the blue 16a plugs so a 13a fuse could be on its limit.
I can't suggest using a nail in place of the fuse
ned
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yep, i cut a bolt to the correct size and now it has a new home. Mentioned to my girlfriend to be alert in case the place burns. Seems to be okay though.
That was fun. This is my welder up to the last. My torch shroud caught fire, then oil appeared on it somehow, and then it turned blue.
The first run was ...okay. The second run was more better. and the third run went okay too.
feedback good or bad appreciated, its all constructive.
That was fun. This is my welder up to the last. My torch shroud caught fire, then oil appeared on it somehow, and then it turned blue.
The first run was ...okay. The second run was more better. and the third run went okay too.
feedback good or bad appreciated, its all constructive.
slim_boy_fat
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Did you grind back an angle on the pieces being welded before starting?
arther dailey
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I gather you are joking about the bolt ?
arther dailey
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As you said before its only a rental! 
arther dailey
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You die if you worry, you die if you dont, why worry
Bill Edwards
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The first weld is not brilliant, the second isn't so bad and the third one is nice, it's probably due to it warming up.
ned
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any way to avoid that Bill? - how to get the first weld good.
Have done more, am on the final one of four welds. It melted the plastic on my torch, it was having trouble delivering the wire, making funny noises.
i had a spare, which seems to be happier at that power. I'm just glad its not the welder that died.
Have done more, am on the final one of four welds. It melted the plastic on my torch, it was having trouble delivering the wire, making funny noises.
i had a spare, which seems to be happier at that power. I'm just glad its not the welder that died.
ned
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I'm afraid I dont.
Cest la vie, they will have to do. I see what you mean though, my welder just isn't powerful enough. I used a three phase welder recently and that had a lot of power, would love to have used it more.
All the strain will not be on the two uprights with the new design, the mount is attached to the truck in four places.
Cest la vie, they will have to do. I see what you mean though, my welder just isn't powerful enough. I used a three phase welder recently and that had a lot of power, would love to have used it more.
All the strain will not be on the two uprights with the new design, the mount is attached to the truck in four places.
