- Thread starter mylesdw
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colnerov
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Hi, Even using a closed cell foam which supposedly won't absorb water, will hold any moisture against the walls of the panels. I think it would be best to leave the boxes empty for air to circulate, just paint or wax in there.
Colin
colnerov
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Hi, Or use those plastic barrels Another option is the heavy Butyl sheeting used for temporary bunds for fuel or chemical tanks, a bit like a heavy pond liner and it's UV stable.
Colin
mylesdw
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Ticking off jobs that need doing before the cab goes on...
...put in some sound/heat insulation. Anyone who has driven one of these will know that they are both hot and noisy. This foil lined one is designed to go under the bonnet or in this case on the cab around the engine. Pictures rather poor, sorry.
...put in some sound/heat insulation. Anyone who has driven one of these will know that they are both hot and noisy. This foil lined one is designed to go under the bonnet or in this case on the cab around the engine. Pictures rather poor, sorry.
norlander
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Yep, can be a right nightmare, the old Bedford RLs had opening windscreens, although in some countries the breeze aint cool either LOL.
I was looking around for something mostly unrelated and came across a fleet of leyland/daf 4x4 ex army trucks for sale. They start £1000 cheaper than the Bedfords but are years younger. This eventually lead me to an interesting write up stating that a reverse decision had been made many years ago regarding disposal of some of the bedford army fleet. For example the new winch trucks sent by leyland were found during use to twist the chassis to the point of, in some cases, destruction of the truck. No suitable solutions could be reached so the Bedfords in winch truck guise (and some others)were kept at least 10 years beyond the disposal date.
That looks lovely quality insulation. If it ever peels off though, can it hit the fan or land on the exhaust? I have used a metal strip across one I did that prevents it falling where it can cause trouble. I was wary of using the nice thick insulation like you have as through lack of knowledge I couldn't decide how much hot air that should be rushing through the small gap between engine and cab would be restricted. I chickened out as our trucks typically after a long drive have to shunt skips and that is a really great point to overheat. I put insulation inside the cab but I am looking at yours enviously.
Yes, I am wandering around like a Greek philosopher, wearing a bedsheet and eating yohurt, muttering and mulling over the whole theory of it. The closed cell foam is effectively a water proof glue. Cowboy builders install windows and doors using it without any screws! (Think of the steel roofing that now comes with kingspan stuck on it). If it has adhered to the panel correctly then water cannot seep in. Condensation struggles to form as there is no air gap to allow it. This all goes to pot of course when water can get in but struggles to get out. Then what if the foam were added to a waxed box section? It cannot adhere to the slimy metal and yet there's not going to be an air gap still. The foam now coated with the goo and forced into the shape of the cavity should not allow water in. Would I guarantee it? No way!
mylesdw
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It had better be, it was bloody expensive!
I like your idea of some metal strips to help support it.
I spent hours trying to predict what needed to be done before the cab went on and almost the first thing I came to do was fitting the steering column which, you guessed it, needs the cab lifted!!! It feeds in from underneath and either the cab or the steering box needs to be moved to do it.
Alan Gregory
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More on the Bennetts tilt here-
http://archive.commercialmotor.com/article/4th-april-1981/73/how-to-tilt-a-fixed-cab
http://archive.commercialmotor.com/article/4th-april-1981/73/how-to-tilt-a-fixed-cab
We had Bedford 4 tonners out in Afghanistan back in 2006 - robust and reliable wagons to work with. Much preferred over the DAFs when off road.
mylesdw
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Amused myself stripping the gauges down
Surprisingly, they all seem to work
I had always assumed that the fuel and temperature gauges were some sort of moving coil voltmeter but in fact they are simply bi-metallic strip type devices - current flowing heats a strip which bends causing the needle to move. This explains why their movement is so well damped.
Surprisingly, they all seem to work
I had always assumed that the fuel and temperature gauges were some sort of moving coil voltmeter but in fact they are simply bi-metallic strip type devices - current flowing heats a strip which bends causing the needle to move. This explains why their movement is so well damped.
I have never been brave enough to pull apart anything like the dials. I thought I had spares but with different voltages and even some stupid things like the Rev counter going the opposite way between models, 'best leave well alone' has served me well.
On the subject of expanding foam for rust prevention, I have been conducting some low tech tests. I used some on my parents shed roof as an emergency glue to secure plastic over the hole. Some 6 months later I have been and taken some of the foam off. I have tested it for UV degradation and fire resistance so far.
It does burn. Funnily enough it ignites and gets a nice little blaze and then goes out. Readily reignites every time and the smoke ploom instills no confidence in the product whatsoever. Every gap in every board in my loft is filled with that too.
I am still thinking that the condensation forming areas such as the roof skin, screen pillars and single panels will benefit from the foams protection. Anywhere that ponding occurs will be best left ventilated.
It does burn. Funnily enough it ignites and gets a nice little blaze and then goes out. Readily reignites every time and the smoke ploom instills no confidence in the product whatsoever. Every gap in every board in my loft is filled with that too.
I am still thinking that the condensation forming areas such as the roof skin, screen pillars and single panels will benefit from the foams protection. Anywhere that ponding occurs will be best left ventilated.
