Screwdriver
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Those composite plastic boards usually screw in with very narrow, needle sharp material specific screws. They are quite crumbly too. Whatever you decide, best do a quick test before you commit.
- Thread starter KimB
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Have you got a full picture of that gate? I’m still undecided with the overall look of my gates.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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Nice job Kim. Hope you didn’t do all the welding with that fuel can sat there on the shelf?
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This was more the look I was going for. With my gate. But then I also like the bolt heads showing. I’m buying the screws and bolts today. I’ll see how the screw fair. If no good I’ll use coach bolts.
the last one you sent @gav1 is the wrong style for my house.
the last one you sent @gav1 is the wrong style for my house.
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Could anyone advice me on wiring my keypads up? The switch wires I need (I’m certain) are green, purple and blue.
This is the control board manual, so I think it needs wiring into board J1, more specifically the green and blue wires in either port 9 or 11 (depending which is open or closed) and then purple wired to port 14?
The other pics are the other pages but I’m not 100% sure and I don’t want to break it.
This is the control board manual, so I think it needs wiring into board J1, more specifically the green and blue wires in either port 9 or 11 (depending which is open or closed) and then purple wired to port 14?
The other pics are the other pages but I’m not 100% sure and I don’t want to break it.
sako243
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If I've understood the question / problem you need to connect COM (purple) to J1/14 and N.O. (Green) to J1/9.
NO = Normally open connection
NC = Normally closed
Basically to completely open the gates you need to create a pulse / connect pin 9 to pin 14 on the FAAC board. If you wired up the normally closed then the gates would be opening continuously.
Incidentally if you only wanted to open one of the rams then wire up the ram to the M1 connections and you can then put a button between J1/10 and J1/14 to activate only that ram.
Make sense?
NO = Normally open connection
NC = Normally closed
Basically to completely open the gates you need to create a pulse / connect pin 9 to pin 14 on the FAAC board. If you wired up the normally closed then the gates would be opening continuously.
Incidentally if you only wanted to open one of the rams then wire up the ram to the M1 connections and you can then put a button between J1/10 and J1/14 to activate only that ram.
Make sense?
sako243
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If Bob's gates are anything to go by the programming sequence is an absolute sod to take care to read the manual carefully beforehand many many times.
It took me about a morning to successfully get Bob's gates working properly! Mind you we had quite a few dodgy connections to contend with.
It took me about a morning to successfully get Bob's gates working properly! Mind you we had quite a few dodgy connections to contend with.
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That makes sense. Actually I after explaining that I’m surprised I didn’t fully understand that. I only have one leaf so yeah you’re right about wiring to pin 10 rather than 9.
I had it running earlier. The programming is confusing. So many bits of info. I’m going to leave the programming till I have made the ram rounts.
Oh also, does the blue wire not need connecting?
Thanks for your help
sako243
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Sorry not quite clear enough, wire up to pin 9. Pin 10 is used as a pedestrian entrance trigger, e.g. In Bob's yard it would only open half the gate so you didn't have to open both of them if you're on foot.
I haven't read through the complete manual for yours (it's online at FAACs website) but I guess pin 10 could also be programmed so it only opens the gate partway rather than all the way.
Blue isn't required, it's basically a wire that's connected to COM when the keypad is saying the gate should be closed. For example you could use it to light up a beacon or unlock a lock.
If you need a hand programming it give me a shout from a glance it looks similar to Bob's setup, there was a method to the madness once you figured it out. But I'd need to refresh my memory, it's been taken over by puppies at the moment.
I haven't read through the complete manual for yours (it's online at FAACs website) but I guess pin 10 could also be programmed so it only opens the gate partway rather than all the way.
Blue isn't required, it's basically a wire that's connected to COM when the keypad is saying the gate should be closed. For example you could use it to light up a beacon or unlock a lock.
If you need a hand programming it give me a shout from a glance it looks similar to Bob's setup, there was a method to the madness once you figured it out. But I'd need to refresh my memory, it's been taken over by puppies at the moment.
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Thanks again, I only have one leaf so I guess it shouldn’t matter at that point but that all makes sense. I’ll get to that. Handy to have a spare wire.
sako243
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Had a quick skim through the manual again and there doesn't appear to be a difference between the two for your purposes. However I'd wire it in to the the A / pin 9 input.
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So I’ve got a bit more time on my hands for a few weeks, first day off and here’s my progress. I cut some 50mm bar up which is the same size as the box section. This allowed me to make a narrow frame like shape which mimics the gates. Once I’d welded the frame I cut some 30mm flat bar to mount the wood. I did a little test by drilling one screw in and screwing a bar to it and then tried to flex in all sorts of directions, it didn’t budge at all so I decided the hidden screws are the right way to go.
Once made I offered it up and decided I wasn’t happy with how much it sticks past the post...
...So I cut six notches which allows it to sit against the back of the wood
Much better, it sticks out maybe 5mm which isn’t noticeable. I overlooked this a little bit. Such is life, I can’t make it right every time.
To finish is up I cut two bars and welded some M8 nuts behind. These will hold it to the post. I just need to make four little tabs to weld on next time I take the welder outside. That completes the infill though.
Just finally, I set up the pillar drill and drilled a lot of holes. All cleaned up and de-burred which is great. These are ready to weld to the gate and mount the wood in the gate. They’re also drilled to have every hole match on each slat. Time will tell if I messed that up
Once made I offered it up and decided I wasn’t happy with how much it sticks past the post...
...So I cut six notches which allows it to sit against the back of the wood
Much better, it sticks out maybe 5mm which isn’t noticeable. I overlooked this a little bit. Such is life, I can’t make it right every time.
To finish is up I cut two bars and welded some M8 nuts behind. These will hold it to the post. I just need to make four little tabs to weld on next time I take the welder outside. That completes the infill though.
Just finally, I set up the pillar drill and drilled a lot of holes. All cleaned up and de-burred which is great. These are ready to weld to the gate and mount the wood in the gate. They’re also drilled to have every hole match on each slat. Time will tell if I messed that up
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Very tidy work!
selectedgrub
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Are you using some kind of maginifier or fish eye lens on your camera or is it just me.
